[KDee]

It’s my birthday soon and I’ve been asked what I’d like. I’m sure there are a few tools I could probably use (but haven’t yet), so let’s spend someone elses money! I have quite a few bits and pieces already:

• Workstand
• Floorpump
• Decent allen keys / screwdrivers / wrenches / cable cutters
• Split link tool
• Mini ratchet
• Torque wrench
• Chain whip
• Chain measuring tool
• Brake bleed kit
• Spoke keys
• Tubeless stuff (inc. Airshot, hose cutters, hose insert press, bleed kit)
• Shimano cassette and BB adapters
• Digital caliper
• Digital pressure gauge
• Ultrasonic bath

Anything obvious missing? Good bike has a press-fit BB so possibly a tool-set to switch that out soon (and maybe the headset too)? Perhaps a nice toolbox as most of the above is rattling about in a couple of small plastic boxes? I don’t think an air compressor is necessary…I haven’t been defeated by the floorpump and Airshot yet (plus, the office has a compressor in the bike garage!).

Are there any little handy things you swear by? Something like a chain-keeper for when the rear wheel is out of the bike? Internal cable/hose routing kit?

Or maybe just a voucher as I think I will need new pads and rotors for the race bike at the end of summer.

Topic

[jaymack]

Other than yet another thumbs
Other than yet another thumbs up for Decathlon’s marvellous chain whip I’d suggest refreshing your skills for your birthday. Cytech’s home mechanics course is excellent and I’m sure that there are other providers.

[hawkinspeter]

KDee wrote:

End of summer the selant will need a refresh, so that could mak sense, Are they OK to use with Stan’s Race Sealant though? It has pretty obvious fibres in it which generally makes it unsuitable for injecting through a valve.

Possibly not, though I’ve only used Caffelatex so don’t know

[ktache]

I am enjoying trying Silca’s

I am enjoying trying Silca’s lube.

[Cugel]

KDee wrote:

End of summer the selant will need a refresh, so that could mak sense, Are they OK to use with Stan’s Race Sealant though? It has pretty obvious fibres in it which generally makes it unsuitable for injecting through a valve.

To go off somewhat orthoganally …. the temptation to try some of the more exotic goos used with bicycles has been nagging at my wallet. I’ve been trying that expensive Silca stuff for the chain (the slippery molecules suspended in oil) which has so far proved very successful at meeting it’s advert claims for being not just kind to the chain but long lasting and a frugal buy because of the teeny amounts used.

So now there are the tyre milks with various suspended particles in them to coagulate a big scab on larger tyre wounds. That Silca do one that’s so claggy it can’t be put in via the valve sleeve, like the Stan’s you mention …. but you can then top it up with a thinner goo that does go in the valve to revive the initial thick & clarty injection via a dismounted tyre.

Are the advert claims troo, though? Anyone used the Silca stuff or a similar tyre milk with added scabbing bits floating about in it?

[KDee]

End of summer the selant will

End of summer the selant will need a refresh, so that could mak sense, Are they OK to use with Stan’s Race Sealant though? It has pretty obvious fibres in it which generally makes it unsuitable for injecting through a valve.

[hawkinspeter]

KDee wrote:

I’ll add one to the list as it will make the routine check-and-top-up of sealant a little easier.

You could add MilkIt valves to your list if you feel like changing your valves.

https://road.cc/content/review/176166-milkit-tubeless-valve-and-refill-kit

[KDee]

Forgot to reply to the

Forgot to reply to the workspace bit. That is a challenge. I’m in NL, and like so many own an apartment. Luckily I have a pretty big “serre” (balcony with sliding glass to keep the crap weather out). This space has to double up as my bike workshop when needed. Unfortunately that means I can’t have a dedicated and well organised setup. So, if anyone has suggestions for a good tool box that would be most welcome also!

[KDee]

I’ll add one to the list as

I’ll add one to the list as it will make the routine check-and-top-up of sealant a little easier.

[KDee]

Nice! I do like to be able to

Nice! I do like to be able to do as much as possible myself. There’s some satisfaction to be had from it. I’ll take a look at that, and a proper puller instead of a drift.

[chrisonabike]

hawkinspeter wrote:

Hubs aren’t too expensive to replace but it takes a bit of time rebuilding the wheel.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff/

[TheBillder]

The old black ones always
The old black ones always seemed to end up at the bottom of a very black toolbox. With the lovely hi vis colourful ones, complete with their own holder, I seem to do better. And there’s no temptation to use one of the hundred saved from IKEA construction (tho they are usually 4 mm).

[ktache]

The last couple of Shimano

The last couple of Shimano free hubs I have had to replace, big pipe XT (old small pipe would last several rims…) buying the complete hub was cheaper than the freehub, so a new set of cones, bearings, fat pipe spindle and seals for nowt too…

[Cugel]

KDee wrote:

Did mention press fit BB…but keep thinking easier to leave to a professional (says a CEng FIMechE).

Them bike shop fitters are of variable quality. You might get a competant one but you might …. not. Also, the rascals give you a Geet Big Bill for doing something you could do better yoursen in a lot less time.  Oh yes they do!

I have two Trek Domane with BB90 press fit bearings. I can change one bearing (you don’t usually need to do both at one time) in less than 30 minutes although there is a time-gap in the middle when one must await the setting of the loctite stuffs used to ensure there’ll be no creaking or tic after the installation.

It takes about 5 minutes to remove the chain and crankset then another five-ten minutes to remove the bearing to be changed, clean off any murk from the BB shell with denatured alcohol then apply the loctite hardener followed by the loctite itself.

Go away and have a coffee.

Once the loctite is ready, a press is used to install the new bearing. Another ten minutes to put the crankset back, clean everything up then put on the chain.

Leave it for 48 hours without riding to make sure the loctite is fully cured. 

This tool is very well made, costs far less than big-name equivalents but does need two extra nuts locked together and held with a second spanner to ensure the pulling grapple doesn’t just turn with the pulling-nut when used.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283904717403?hash=item421a0a325b:g:VvMAAOSwY3Ve28ql&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Aa8vzjerKejSup1r7PwJHEFIt1d7GkCztzAgM5PV7W568hYIQffGilORNa%2B4osXP1w1OQRFC9oXJqnkLBzF%2BprNKU%2F%2ByzQOI2WwGQKE4%2FayV%2FGCA3ufBbCR1Y0iMQRk2rIw%2Bmu5%2Bbd7JidUnsNfJVCTM19PqVL7Loh1NWs8665LaUyFrrDKPbb5e6%2BnoLeZ0KCE78hz%2F28EPd6EldBmbZh6PEBXoePUdPc4am9O8EnjBmjEsaiJHxZJHl5gIqsuN%2FgimPfLn7hH3b8G1b%2FrhfG7cbZwUrPYR3hWL3OX3fUu%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_zIt5ioYg

You don’t need the version with the butterfly nut as an ordinary nut turned with a spanner gives more pulling force for bearings that are very stuck-in (perhaps with too much loctite).

The next-cheapest version of such a tool is £50! Then the next one about £90!! The latter does have a nice colour anodizing on it, mind.

[hawkinspeter]

Cugel wrote:

Suffice it to say that I’ve managed to strip one by doing the tight-as-I-can thing.  I yam a big strong lad, see? Both the lock ring and the body had to be replaced as the threads on both got mangled.

Not THAT hard.

Cassette freeehubs can be relatively easily replaced if damaged and aren’t ridiculously expensive unless they’re a proprietary design used by a-one o’ them £3000-a-set wheel purveyors. But imagine that you strip the threads on a centre-lock disc wheel hub ……

Hubs aren’t too expensive to replace but it takes a bit of time rebuilding the wheel.

[quiff]

Does that just mean you now

Does that mean you now just wonder where you’ve left the orange one instead?!

[Author]

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