Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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That’s just been altered.
That’s just been altered. Google cache still has 31st May and the first paragraph says ‘We are running a free to enter competition throughout April and May’. Hmmm..
Nice, but alas looks like the
Nice, but alas looks like the draw was on the 31st May – according to that page anyway…
thanks guys for warm reply, I have possibilty to return 30 days, but if mostly all blak matt has this issue, only diffrent color is an option or be very lucky to get black mat completly without those ”marks”Is it problem ?
FWIW i’m a 41 Shimano (and
FWIW i’m a 41 Shimano (and DHB) but my black Decathlon 700s in 41 are much too tight (and short) in the toe box and going back. I’d try a 42 if they had any in stock, like the rest of the shoe a lot . Had similar issues with Specialized BG road shoes in 41 as well – too short, too tight.
Absolutely, definitely,
Absolutely, definitely, without a shadow of a doubt what paulrattew said – don’t risk it. For a nice ride and a smidge more resistance to pinch flats (and penetration flats to a smaller degree), a set of latex inner tubes perhaps ?
brokenorange wrote:
@brokenorange – what size foot are you?Size 43.
OK, have an unused black pair in 41 that’s a tad narrow feeling , thought I’d ask before returning them. Although too bold for me, I think the blue/pink pair have a certain style, but then again i wore mixed Vans in the ’70s when skating so I’m probably not the best judge..
@brokenorange – what size
@brokenorange – what size foot are you?
On smooth roads I typically run 100psi in my 25mm tyres. But I often ride in the area around my flat in London, and the roads are absolutely disasterous, filled with cracks and speed bumps. A 10km ride, even when running 60psi on the front and 80 on the back, will usually leave me with a headache. Short of riding my mountain bike, are there any decent ways to reduce the sheet amount of vibration which is transmitted through the bike? I have just bought a 28mm rear tyre, and will try that this afternoon. I also looked at Canyon’s suspension seatpost, but, with only 10cm of exposed post on my frame, am not confident it will have a substantial effect. I ride a Giant Defy aluminium bike.(from the page source)
I swapped my 23mm schwalbe ones last summer for 25’s, definately more comfortable on the 25’s. However, I couldn’t get used to how sluggish they felt on pick up and on climbs, sure they do have lower rolling resistance when up to speed, but I hated the sluggishness compared to 23’s, have now swapped back and enjoy the responsiveness of 23’sYou know how your tyres feel I guess but sure there’s not something different (exact model etc) apart from the width ? There’s 20g between the two of them which is not much to make such a large difference. BTW, running latex inner tubes ?
Ready to be shot down in flames on this. I’m a big lad at over 100kg but cycle daily. I recently bough a rose pro SL 2000 that came with 25mm wheels. All very nice, but my winterbike has 28s on it which i find really comfy with my poor back. I have managed to shoehorn on 28s to the Rose and there is no issue on th rear wheel. Unfortunately the front wheel is a bit tight and rubs slightly on the top of the forks (i think due to a slight accumulation of dirt. What would be intersting to know from my side is, is it possible to refit the 25mm on the front whel and keep the 28 on the back. Would this have a disasterous affect on handling or could i simply reduce the pressure from 100 psi on the front to 80 ish and resolve the problem that way – we are talking very little rubbing here in the first place Thanks in advance.First off, i’d say for general road riding, reduce the pressure anyway – front and back – one of the benefits of larger volume tyres is afterall that you can run at lower pressure without (necessarily) adversely effecting your rolling resistance whilst gaining on the comfort side of things. 80psi on the front is more than enough for a 28mm on a typical road rim IMO, good place to start certainly and can go down as well as up from there. If there’s no rub then i’d say give it a go for a bit and see how you like it and whether you can see any rubbing that wasn’t there when static-ish. If there is any rubbing i’d personally be tempted to not use it, YMMV… If the 28mm is not working for you for whatever reason, there should be no problem with mixing the 25mm and 28mm from a handling POV, worth spending a bit of time getting the pressures how you like them though (will be slightly different to the normal balance/split).
bechdan wrote:
What useful input. What’s your problem<p>Well I suppose Bank Holiday Monday is as good a day as any for over-generalised nonsense about external BBs….</p>My problem was SP59 unequivocally condemning external BBs without any real nod to reality.
Well I suppose Bank Holiday
Well I suppose Bank Holiday Monday is as good a day as any for over-generalised nonsense about external BBs….
IYou lose more speed by lifting your head, taking your arm off the bars to wave or grab a drink, gel or bar. 99.9% of riders would gain far more by working on their pedal stroke and breathing technique.Simplest way for most recreational cyclists to make aero gains is to get off the hoods and ride in the drops.
I believe* it’s generally more aero to stay on the hoods but bend your arms so the forearms are more horizontal than to straighten the arms more and reach for the drops. Obviously if you’re flexible enough to flatten your forearms whilst in the drops and still generate normal power then you’re onto a winner – but that boat’s sailed for me (assuming it was ever in port…).
* There was a article/review not too long ago about that.. can’t find it at the moment but will dig.
Another vote for Speedplay
Another vote for Speedplay here. I’m using the Zeros and find them excellent for float and by far the easiest road pedal i’ve used to clip in to. I was using Time iClics, and they were pretty good – personally found them easier to get in and out of than SPD-SLs and about the same as SPDs, but with a more positive action. The reason I originally changed was I really benefitted from pedal spacers, and couldn’t use the Times with the spacers I had (they bolt through the back with a hex key)… can’t say i’ve looked back and would choose the Speedplays over them (or anything else i’ve tried) even if I had the choice.
The Zeros allow you to limit the float, should you wish, although I tend to run them pretty much ‘open’. Never had an unexpecte pull-out with them for what it’s worth, although that may say more about my power than anything else 🙂 If you do decide to try Speedplay, and aren’t using the new “walkable” versions, i’d recommend KeepOnKovers for the cleats – weigh bugger all, stay on, grip pretty well and stop the cleat surfaces getting knackered (also improve the clip in slightly IMO). I get mine re-greased every 1500-2000km or so by the place I got them from (Bike Science in Bristol) who don’t charge, which works for me.
Pedals are quite a personal taste but i’d say it’s probably worth you giving Speedplays a go – if you don’t like them the resale value is pretty high so I doubt you’d lose much, and might gain a lot. Best of luck with the search.
The suppression was poor, but
The suppression was poor, but that does not imply that there is no effect (the point made by matthewn5 is pertinent here as well). See e.g.
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Final regulatory impact analysis amendment to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 208. Passenger car front seat occupant protection. Washington, DC: US Department of Transportation, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration; 1984. Publication no. DOT-HS-806-572. Available at http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/pubs/806572.pdf
..and others. The US has some interesting over-views of passenger protection