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This is quite high on my list
This is quite high on my list of problems I wish I had…
(although, seriously, hope it gets sorted)
Yeah keto is legit. Old news in running circles but judging by the responses to Kiwi then I guess cycling is a bit behind the curve.There’s a guy cycling the length of Norway, or Sweden. Forget. But he’s doing it on zero carbs. Maybe even finished now. Think he lost around 14 kilos last I heard.
Couldn’t find a link on Google, heard about it from GCN.
T’was Sweden and he has indeed finished. Lost 14kg, having put on 17kg of fat before the event. As GCN mentioned, he’ll need to go on a diet after all that … 😉
jdryan86 [at] ymail.com wrote
What happened in my case was the front tyre was perfect. However, the back tyre did not seat correctly on the RIM. For example you follow the tyre bead around and part of the bead dissapeared into the rim if that makes sense so the bead line was not true and the tyre had a low spot so to speak.I fitted twice having the same problem even swapped front with back and also took to LBS who was also unable to seat correctly. I am not sure if it was deffective tyre or something with my rim but my current clinchers sit fine.
If you swapped the front and rear, and the (originally wonky) rear fitted perfectly on the front rim then it may point to something slightly off with the rear rim. Tubeless tyres are rather more fickle with rims and bead hooks, understandable as that’s what gives the necessary security at road tyre pressures, so perhaps they’re exposing a small variance that the clinchers are masking / aren’t sensitive to – dunno to be honest, but it’s a thought.
His own analysis showed a similar point, look at his website.
I’ve brought this up each
I’ve brought this up each time i’ve seen Walkers data quoted – but it seems that people tend to only want to quote what they think they know about the analysis rather than actually read anything.
As for helmets not protecting anyone because otherwise we’d have mass fatalities – I wasn’t aware that protection was so binary. I guess this means that gloves and knee and elbow pads don’t offer any as my arms and legs aren’t dead.
Johnnyvee wrote:
The rear is 142 x 12 and the temptation is to get another set for more road based days – for about 300 I could get some hand built h plus son archetypes on jra hubs. Or I just put road tyres on what I have. Not able to go much above 300 for the wheels though.For bombing about, especially off-road, these might be worth a look for 160 quid…
http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/alexrims-atd550-11speed-aero-disc-wheelset.htm
The AT 500 rim is 622X17 and 560g, so not light and about 85g/wheel heavier than the AT 470s – those wheels are also 32 spoke front and back, but that might be useful if you’re 105kg and giving it some Turkish off-road 🙂 Still the whole wheelset is only a tad over 1900g, 30mm rims, tubeless ready and the hubs are basically Novatechs with all the bearings removed and replaced with SKF throughout. Chuck on some WTB Cross Boss TCS or similar and a splash of Stans and you’re laughing, all for under £ 200 with a bit looking 😀
Have fun whatever you end up with.
Cheers
2p worth – the hubs are what
2p worth – the hubs are what they are, definitely not the worst, and at least the bearings are easily and cheaply replaceable / upgradeable. The rims are not too heavy, decent internal width and tubeless ready. All in all, that’s pretty decent – plenty of lighter stuff around but i’d say no compelling reason to upgrade. That said, if the rear hub is 135mm (rather than the 130mm the older Jamis disc bikes had) then there are a lot of cheap wheelsets that crop up (superstarcomponents, Planet X etc) so a second set with road tyres on is always a temptation… 🙂
I lifted this straight fromhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html
It’s a few years old now and things move on, but he seems to put together some technically knowledgeable articles.
“Carbon fiber is an increasingly popular frame material, but it is fundamentally different from metal tubing as a way to construct frames. Because of the fibrous nature of this material, it has a much more pronounced “grain” than metal does. A well-designed carbon fiber frame can have the fabric aligned in such a way as to provide maximum strength in the directions of maximum stress.
Unfortunately, in bicycle applications, carbon fiber is not a fully mature technology, as tubular-construction metal frames are. Bicycles are subjected to a very wide range of different stresses from many different directions. Even with computer modeling, the loads can’t be entirely predicted. Carbon fiber has great potential, but contemporary carbon fiber frames have not demonstrated the level of reliability and durability that are desired for heavy-duty touring use. In particular, a weak point tends to be the areas where metal fitments, such as fork ends, bottom bracket shells, headsets, etc connect to the carbon frame. These areas can be weakened by corrosion over time, and lead to failure.”
(Dated Aug 2010)
CF is still a maturing technology. I’ve seen those trail bike frame tests before and they really do put paid to the notion that CF is not a strong material. However the fact that very few touring bike specialists use it for frames at the present time is a good indicator that it is not ‘better’ as an overall package than other traditional materials for all applications.
Fingers crossed for a warranty frame replacement for your mate. Was it a brand new bike or new second hand? Giant may replace as a gesture of goodwill, especially if the alternative is an offer by your mate to post pictures of a cracked Giant frame all over the internet…
The main reason for not using cf for touring bikes is because it cannot be adequately repaired unless you are fortunate enough to be in a place where facilities are available.
However steel and other metals can usually be patched up or repaired by any competent village blacksmith even in remote areas of the world .
Chances for repair in the wild would undoubtably be higher for steel frames in most places i’d warrant – i’d still hate to see your average village blacksmith put a flame anywhere near an aluminium or modern, performance steel/stainless one though. Also, much as I admire Sheldons site, i’d say that summary was nearly out of date at the time of writing – let alone now. I’d personally take a metal (probably non-exotic steel) frame for touring in out-of-the-way places, world circumnavigation and so on – otherwise i’d just go with whatever was to hand that took luggage and decent tyres.
Maybe just bad grammar or
Maybe just bad grammar or translation, perhaps the intention was “10W reduction at a speed of 35 km/h, which equates to the Power Competition being 1 minute and 25 seconds faster over 40 km. This is a huge huge 25% reduction in rolling resistance.” That is also inline with how they have quoted performance gains elsewhere for this and other Power tyres, e.g.
The Power Endurance is aimed at the sportive and distance rider. It achieves a claimed 20% increase in puncture resistance, with increased grip and an efficiency gain of 8.6 watts relative to the Pro4 Endurance, equivalent to 63 seconds over 40km at 35kph.They also certainly seem to have very good rolling resistance, e.g.
So does the new Power Competition really have 25% less rolling resistance when compared to the Pro 4 Service Course? Yes, it does! At an air pressure of 120 psi, rolling resistance comes in at 10.9 Watts which is indeed close to 25% less than the Service Course.http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/michelin-power-competition-2016
Decent science from them, worth looking at their figures.
Thanks for enlightening me, I’m not that clued upon geometry etc just the experience of owning an ally bike and a steelie. You’re a very knowlegeable chap. Thanks again.
To a very large degree the ‘harshness’ or otherwise of a metal frame is down to the structure, and the size and shape of the tubing – not the material per se. Similar can be said of composites but more consideration had to be made for the actual lay up and local material properties.Aluminium framed bikes for me are too rigid, I have a Claude Butler ally road bike which I never ride. The ride is too harsh, I feel every bump through the bars. I bought a Genesis Equilibrium 10 and the ride difference is just amazing. It’s a real comfy ride and very forgiving compared to the Claude Butler. I am a steelie fan. I hope you get sorted with the pain and become pain free. Good luck.
Dunno about that 🙂 but i’ve suffered some shite frames and have a science/engineering background so it’s interesting to study stuff and try and understand what helps makes things good or crap. Here is a proper knowledgeable chap talking about frames (something he knows more than a little about)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjYNIaI26EQ
(Good series that by BR IMO, worth a gander at the others)
Butty,it’s likely that the top of the food chain will sort things out (The Virus) due to over prescribed antibiotics apparently there is only one that actual works for now. That will be the natural disaster.
so true, the outlook is black ⚰
Antibiotics have never been able to stop viruses. What are you talking about?
i never said stop the virus, antibiotics aid recovery once you have been infected.
That’s not even wrong.
chill out man.A simple “oops, silly me” would have done.
Jimnm wrote:
Aluminium framed bikes for me are too rigid, I have a Claude Butler ally road bike which I never ride. The ride is too harsh, I feel every bump through the bars. I bought a Genesis Equilibrium 10 and the ride difference is just amazing. It’s a real comfy ride and very forgiving compared to the Claude Butler. I am a steelie fan. I hope you get sorted with the pain and become pain free. Good luck.
To a very large degree the ‘harshness’ or otherwise of a metal frame is down to the structure, and the size and shape of the tubing – not the material per se. Similar can be said of composites but more consideration had to be made for the actual lay up and local material properties.
PennineRider wrote:
No. No it doesn’t. It quotes 140g for the 31.6, as can be seen in the images you posted. That’s what the brackets after the weight are for. They tell you which version of the product has that weight.desktop site quotes 140Strangely – as the OP found out – according to those screenshots it quotes 220g and 140g for the 31.6 x 280, depending on how you view the site. Obviously that’s still not the product they ordered but it is odd.
I’ve no experience with
I’ve no experience with either but the CX Team seems quite well regarded by some, and that price difference could go quite some way to buying a second wheelset (e.g. wheels from superstarcomponents, tyres and a cassette should be doable for around £ 200). That’d be my choice, both look good though.