Forum Replies Created
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I’ve had Wheels which was OK
I’ve had Wheels which was OK on the CX bike. Also had a Hope PF 30 on the MTB which screws together with a fancy tool, and also presses the bearings in. That outlasted the frame, though I did press new bearings in when I built it into the new frame.
Agreed. I use MTB style
Agreed. I use MTB style cleats on my XC MTB, and on the cyclocross bike which is currently loaded with panniers for shopping and road trips rather than racing. The cyclocross shoes are just fine, and you can walk around without looking like a giraffe on acid. Loads of alternatives in plenty of styles take two bolt cleats.
I’ve got Look Keos on my road bike, which are fine for long rides, but I still don’t clip as quick as with MTB cleats. You don’t want to walk down a tiled ramp to the loo in a cafe with them, oh no.
Probably* subgrouping 882
Probably* subgrouping 882 error.
*by which I mean a hypothesis which could be tested if we had the population sizes for each data point.
I have photochromic
I have photochromic prescription Oakleys, which were super expensive (although less than a fairly ordinary wheelset). I wear them for road, MTB, cross, kayaking and have had them several years – they don’t owe me much. Optical quality is excellent, and the photochromic is great for MTB routes in and out of woodland.
Colour – probably more fashion than function. I had a more bronze tint in the past, current are a grey smoke. I prefer the grey, only because the coloured ones made the sky look much more threatening than reality.
A cheaper alternative is to go for a wraparound lens for light attenuation, with clear prescription lenses behind. Then you could have a range of colours to suit the light and your mood.
Apparently Melon is a popular colour if you can put up with the spammy flavour.
Melon? Smells like tinned ham
Melon? Smells like tinned ham to me.
So I think it is Octalink V1.
So I think it is Octalink V1. But the pictures I can find of the matching crank have self extracting crank bolts.
Can you post a photo of the centre of the crank arm? And also the inside face of the crank at the pedal end. The crank model number is usually stamped around the pedal hole.
I think @Kevvj is on to
I think @Kevvj is on to something. The graphics match the Allez Comp from 1999, which according to this site has a 6500 Octalink bottom bracket.
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=86355
The tool I posted will work but you would need the top hat shaped plug to go in it (which is what I have). Alternatively the CWP-7 would do both Octalink and and square taper.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/park-tool-compact-crank-wrench-and-puller-cwp-7/
There were two flavours of Octalink (as I discovered to my cost after chewing the splines on the wrong one). I’ll have a look which one you have.
Pedals are all the same*, but LH pedal unscrews left hand thread, right hand pedal is standard right hand thread.
*apart from some obscure bmx ones
I don’t think it’s a 6600
I don’t think it’s a 6600 crank either. It has a self -extraction threaded hole at the axle, to fit a square taper bottom bracket. Looks more like a 600. The bulge at the end of the crank matches too.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133377314617
Crank removal tool £12
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-cotterless-crank-puller/
Whilst the crank is off, I’d replace the bottom bracket too if there is any roughness (or it might be ok if you are lucky).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391420053872
However it might be seized in at that age and will probably put up a fight. You will probably need to bolt a BB removal tool to the axle so you can use a very long spanner and a gorilla to get it out. If you do it without the bolt there’s a good chance the splines will just round out.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Seized-Bottom-Bracket-Removal/
Hang on – the spare pedal has
Hang on – the spare pedal has a left hand thread? Now we understand why the threads in the crank are so chewed up!
Drive side crank is standard right hand thread, non-drive side is left hand. Sounds like previous user managed to mash the pedals in the wrong side.
Agreed, put some sealant in.
Agreed, put some sealant in.
During the week you can
During the week you can usually get live chat on their contact page.
Alternatively Facebook or Twitter.
For the headset, it looks
For the headset, it looks like external cups required. Measure the inside diameter very carefully, and then check this Park Tools article very carefully.
So the noise changes
So the noise changes depending on where your weight is – no weight or lots of weight on the front end suggests headset or front axle to me. I’ve been spending lockdown chasing creaks on various of the family bikes, especially coming out of the back of a cross season. Pretty much silent now. So far:
Four bottom brackets
Freehub bearings, and greasing ratchet/pawls
Tightened drive side rear dropout, and greased threads on axle
Greased and tightened direct mount chainring
Loctite on chainring bolts
Headset check
Spokes – found two loose ones, also a bit of lube on the crossovers
Seatpost greasing
Pedal threads – copper slip again
Tested pedals using soft soled shoes to eliminate cleat noise as source
Tightened lock rings on SRAM cassettes (XD especially needed more grease and more torque)
Don’t use spacers, the right
Don’t use spacers, the right axle is out there. What is the make/ model of your bike?
117 mm front sounds like a Canyon size.
There is a configuration tool for just about every bike here.
https://robertaxleproject.com/axle-finder-2/
Measure one of the remaining
Measure one of the remaining ones and try Superstar. There aren’t too many variables.
https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/m8-standard-chainring-bolts-uk-made.htm
