Forum Replies Created
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Can you take a better video?
Can you take a better video? Use SLO-mo on your phone, and rest it steadily on something. I had similar noise that was a link catching slightly on the next larger sprocket as it came up to engage. Tooth on the larger sprocket was ever so slightly bent.
Presumably all the standard stuff is checked – no missing spacers, lock ring tight.
When you say ‘messing with’ b screw, is it set correctly? Is the screw bearing on the correct lug on the frame? Is the lug on the dropout/frame good? With 105 I’ve never found it to be too much of an issue, but SRAM Eagle is very fussy to b screw.
Why can’t they stick to the
Why can’t they stick to the car paths intstead of holding up the railway traffic? And it’s all black, impossible for trains to see.
(From the same paper as the underwater drunk one)
You put the forked bit on the
You put the forked bit on the opposite rim, and the hook goes under the bead. The fork presses directly down on the rim where it is strong, rather than crushing it sideways. I’ve used it on lightweight carbon rims and tight tyres no problems.
I use a tyre mounting tool
I use a tyre mounting tool rather than levers for anything tight. Turns a 30 minute festival of swearing and frustration into a smooth job.
No idea what drinfinity is talking about regarding a ‘bolt on brake track’ – cloud cuckoo land stuff.PP
Crazy idea, but it could work. Probably would need six bolts to hold it on, and a different brake caliper. I head a rumour that some off-road cyclists use them.
Have you taken the wheel out
Have you taken the wheel out and put it back recently? Or dropped down the side of a really deep pothole, or a hideous wheel mangling bike rack?
My first thoughts were massive crack, but there is a pair of parallel tracks on the tyre, and matching scratch on the rim profile.
looks quite deep though – if you ground it out to the bottom of the scratch, you would have a thin spot on the rim.
it would be good if you could bolt some kind of braking surface on that was replaceable for about £20, rather than trashing a really expensive wheel.
I wrap masking tape around
I wrap masking tape around the tube and cut to the edge with a regular hacksaw, and tidy up with fine sandpaper.
With an alloy steerer, I use a plumbers pipe slice which gives a nice easy clean cut.
Definitely get a mech hanger
Definitely get a mech hanger alignment tool. I never try to fix niggling indexing problems until I’ve checked everything is straight.
You are doing just fine. A
You are doing just fine. A chain is a consumable item, and you are probably spending about 50p a week on it.
You could have left it longer, which would have saved £1, maybe £2 in the year on chain. It would however cost another £20 on a worn cassette, and maybe up to £40 on chainrings.
No doubt someone will come and link to the article which describes how a standard chain checker isn’t really measuring the right thing and they can get 73.6km more from each chain by using a £20 device that will pay them back after 10 years. Which is fine if your hobby is making chains last longer than anyone else on the internet.My hobby is riding bikes, so I change my chain every time the road.cc article on “should you change your chain” is published.
The FSA Tempo is a square
The FSA Tempo is a square taper fitting as far as I can tell. The current Claris is Hollowtech.
This means you would need to change your bottom bracket for a matching one. Not a big deal for a bike shop, and easy enough for the home mechanic with the right tools (simple and cheap).
If you are replacing chainrings I would usually replace the chain at the same time. Old chain on new rings is a nasty combination.
Or you could find an alternative square taper triple (looks like Wiggle are ahead of me on this!)
I would turn the bike upside
I would turn the bike upside down. Chock one crank against the chainstay with a stout stick (I use a wooden mallet handle). Put your Allen key in the other pedal, pointing forwards. Now you can push down on the tool with all your weight – even stand on it.
You can extend the Allen key with a piece of pipe – I have an old flat MTB handlebar for this.
Repeat for other side. The orientation ensures you are turning the correct way to undo.
When refitting, use copper grease to stop them seizing.
The Geoffrey Butler Cycles
The Geoffrey Butler Cycles shop is still going in Croydon – you could ask them.
It’s a nice looking bike. I’d fit the rear wheel right back into the dropouts, put the original pump on, and ride it out on sunny days. Tubular tyres are still popular for racing, the ride quality is part of the bike – I’d keep the wheels. I might be tempted to put some new tubs on if the originals are 35 years old, and maybe some modern brake blocks.
My initial reaction was ‘how
My initial reaction was ‘how dare they take away my free access to all my legacy ride comparison data, and my leaderboard positions’ . Then I gave myself a stern talking to and decided to pay up, especially now they have simplified the model so you get all the features for one rate.
It’s either that or vastly more advertising.
I thought the same about the
I thought the same about the dodgy sign, but it is legit the RSPB. Regarding can they close it – yes, it’s a permissive path, so they can close it and have no obligation to provide an alternative.
No. Don’t go down that route,
No. Don’t go down that route, or you’ll have some local newspaper out with ‘Lycra clad Tour de France wannabe too fast in cycle lane’.
In the Land of the Free they already radar gun mountainbikers.
