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And yes, round here there
And yes, round here there were plenty of schools out last week. A few were doing wheelies. Some at the mountain bike competition I did a bit of judging for, at the wheelie station.
I’ve not had much luck
I’ve not had much luck drilling out screws. Usually they are made of a harder material than the cast alloy they go into. Once you get past the bolt head, the drill drifts out of the shaft into the casting.
might be more successful if you have a drill stand.
Regarding counting teeth –
Regarding counting teeth – three things to be aware of.
The range. This is the maximum difference in number of teeth the cage of the rear mech has to cope with. As you are going 1x, this is just the difference between the big sprocket and the little sprocket at the back. 34-11 = 23, so you need a cage that will cover at least 23 teeth. Any MTB mech will probably do that.
next is the max sprocket size. Most MTB will go 32, but check the spec if you want a bigger sprocket for hills.
Third ( probably most important) is your overall gearing, discussed above. There are 2.5 x as many opinions on this as there are cyclists. They are of course all wrong. The correct ratio for bottom gear is 3xthigh/waist 😉
I have found a rear mech
I have found a rear mech alignment tool to be very useful when tracking dodgy mech issues. It might be the problem here (or not) but I use mine on all the family bikes before I fettle the mech.
How worn is the chain? Have you tried a chain checker? Maybe riding in the winter on the low range has worn cogs and chain together, so now when you come up to high gears you have an old chain on newer cogs.
Agree on the bedding in
Agree on the bedding in required.
If it is really seized in the
If it is really seized in the hub, I wouldn’t ride it till it was freed up. The dropout will be clamped tight by the lever end, but at the other end it will only be the finger tight nut holding the wheel in. I’m assuming here you have a traditional QR – less of an issue if it’s bolt through.
If it is straight, then the QR cam could be used to draw it out. Penetrating oil, then a spacer between cam and hub, and then close the lever.
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/PXLGWL/planet-x–waterproof-crab-hand-winter-glove
Planet X. I’m using these crab claw gloves. Very warm, and a good length up the cuff. Currently at £8 so got to be worth a punt. They have a standard 5 finger warm liner, and claw outer, with a membrane
theseatpostman.comIf you feel you can do no more
This. I think he uses voodoo, but have a look at his photos and you will be converted. There is one where the post was sheared off at the head, with only broken crozzle sticking out of the seat tube. Next shot is a clean as a whistle seat tube.
Anybody tried one of these?
Anybody tried one of these? Looks like interesting kit.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-tyre-seating-tool-black-one-size/
Regarding the valve locknut,
Regarding the valve locknut, my the tubeless valves on my MTB and my CX rims came with a shim that matched the curved profile of the rim, then a little oring, then the locknut.
I’ve experienced at least 3 snakebites on roadbikes, where I didn’t have BTB’s ninja skills to fully bunnyhop road craters. Also a few thorns and nails. In each case I would have expected tubeless not to suffer such a puncture (since I hit much worse on the MTB at v low pressure and escape).
Cost? The Ultegra wheels I last bought happened to be tubeless ready, and tyres are now coming back into the normal £ range, so next time I get new tyres I will probably modernise.
Going to cost you £60 to hook it up to the fault code reader and you get an hours labour for that too, oh wait, that’s a car.Unlucky, hope it’s a cheap fix.
bluetooth dongle from EBay £10 will get same info (again for car sadly)
Does the FD operate from the function button on the derailleur?
Is the front shifter battery ok if it was not used for a long period?
So where does the seat post
So where does the seat post end relative to the crack? If it’s way below, then that rules it out. If it’s right by the crack, that raises the suspicion of it being short.
My first mountain bike (GT
My first mountain bike (GT Tequestra) had a similar , but bigger, crack in the same place, caused from the bottom of the seat post trying to escape through the seat tube. That was helped by a crash though.
I had a reinforcing sleeve welded on, and I kept riding for years more.
Anyway, the point I was making is it looks like the bottom of the seat post, and I think a warranty claim would be bounced on that basis.
Ahh 28.6 only. Too small for
Ahh 28.6 only. Too small for me!
If you go for a cheap kids
If you go for a cheap kids frame as the heart of the build, the geometry is likely to be horrible. For example, Apollo bikes on a size claimed suitable for 7 – 9 year olds have 20” wheels. On the other hand, our very small 9 year old is midway through the range of a Luath 24.
A junk frame with a 105 group on it is still a junk bike.
If you go for a Luath, you can still have the joy of stripping it right back (BB comes out really easily even on the one I replaced on a third hand Luath 26), polishing every part, putting on funky bar tape (leopard on ours), new cables in a matching colour, and of course the lush purple frame.
Now you’ve got me thinking about it, I might strip and spray the 26 when it gets handed down…
