Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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I know what you are saying about the shifters and had the same concerns, but when looking at the Luath Pro they seem to use the Ultegra ones. So I am assuming that if the reach adjustment in the Ultegra is OK then 105 should be OK too.
Regarding front mech – get your daughter to try shifting the front on your bike, and see if she can manage. My younger one still finds it tricky to change down the cassette on the Luath 24.
I would still go Luath, and I
I would still go Luath, and I would love to see a purple one, so please post pics when it’s done.
The frame geometry is so much better designed than anything else. It tends to be better optimised for a bigger wheel, better Q factor, and is the heart of the bike. I had occasion to lift a fleet of kids bikes over two gates recently, and the Luath were all much lighter.
You could get an old scratched red one fairly cheap, and have a spectacular pro respray, and still put some of your upgrade bits on. It would look awesome. There’s one on Ebay now fully loaded with guards, rack, cage, spare tyres. Not sure I’d bother with a triple chainring though. Watch a kids cross or circuit race, and most of the parents are shouting ‘change up’ or ‘change down’, whilst the kids go round basically on a singlespeed.
Your estimate for frame, forks, wheels and chain set is £190 – you could get a fair Luath 24 for that.
GoldenCheetah has calibration
GoldenCheetah has calibration curves for pretty much every setting on any turbo you could name. I use it with my Garmin speed/cadence sensor to estimate power on a simple Tacx trainer.
Not cheap, but a fascinating idea- closer to the idea of tyre chains, so you can carry it and put it on when neededfascinating idea indeed. Studded tyres not cheap to start with, and the alternative here is to have an extra set of wheels and cassette and somewhere to keep them , so the overall price is where I’d expect.
For an application where you might get some icy commuting days, slapping them on for the few times when you need them would be handy. Take them off to come when it’s thawed (riding spikes on tarmac is hard work!)
I’d have liked a set of these in the lakes a while back. Most of the ride was clear, but the top of Garburn was frozen over. Would be like taking crampons.
The ‘adapters’ look like they
The ‘adapters’ look like they have the standard 3 hole pattern to fit the shoe, then 4 threaded nuts to take the missing cleats.
Unless you you can source cleats that fit, I don’t know that you would be able to use them.
The main feature of the pedals appears to be the surface is dropped down to the level of the centre of the spindle. It seems a shame to add stack height back in with a black plastic adapter.
If you find some cleats, a little creativity with a drill and a Stanley knife might get them to fit a modern shoe…
I’m sorry, ‘herbal medicine’,
I’m sorry, ‘herbal medicine’, “Oh, herbal medicine’s been around for thousands of years!” Indeed it has, and then we tested it all, and the stuff that worked became ‘medicine’. And the rest of it is just a nice bowl of soup and some potpourri, so knock yourselves out.
Dara Ó Briain
[url]http://www.mbr.co.uk/forums/forum.php[/url]
MBR magazine has an active forum.
Spokes? I had a tink sound
Spokes? I had a tink sound where the spoke tension wasn’t right. Can you try a different rear wheel?
I have some NW winter boots
I have some NW winter boots for off road, with neoprene tops. They only get wet when water comes in at the top, even if I’m wading through mud or snow.
Best results for me from
Best results for me from neoprene. I tried out the gloves I use for kayaking, and they were warmer than sealskins. I found sealskins sweaty till they started to leak. Then they were leaky and sweaty.
Mostly they are all the same
Mostly they are all the same size. 1 1/8″ steerer, 31.8 mm bar. Same for road and MTB.
I’ve had similar from rear
I’ve had similar from rear axle (bolt through) which stopped when it was greased, and also from chainring bolts not completely tight.
Apologies, I was meaning MTB
Apologies, I was meaning MTB spuds too.
I’d go for SPDs, and drill
I’d go for SPDs, and drill your own holes. Cut the shoe insole for the cleat, and the orthopaedic insole goes over the top.
Address and phone details
Address and phone details could leak from anywhere – assume they are pretty much public domain. Bike bits could be a guess – plenty of people buy them online, so if they phish enough email addresses they will get a bite.
