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BBB
28mm on wide rims.
28mm on wide rims.BBB
It’s got nothing to do with
It’s got nothing to do with the wheels. Upgrading them won’t make you noticeably faster both down and uphill. Just ride your bike.BBB
Nothing wrong with lights
Nothing wrong with lights that bright at the right time of the day (e.g. like in the picture)BBB
Optimal tyre width for vast
Optimal tyre width for vast majority of non-competing riders = what the pros use + 3-5mm. A typical amateur is slower, heavier and less aero so it’s completely illogical to assume that the optimal tyre width should be the same as what the pro cyclist use. It’s pretty obvious that most of roadies are brainwashed by marketers and journos and use what they are told without even testing it themselves. Almost all rolling and air resistance tyre tests are pretty useless to determine the optimal tyre width for given conditions. Tyre rolling on the real road will have much greater resistance than on smooth steel drums in a laboratory. Something like cobbles or rumble strips can require 1/2 of extra power to maintain the same speed. Wind tunnel tests again don’t represent typical speeds achieved by most of riders. We don’t normally ride at +25mph, do we? Rolling resistance (on typical road surfaces) tends to be underestimated while air drag quite the opposite. It’s not that difficult to spend a few days riding the same tyres in different widths in order to find out that 28mm or wider (run at appropriately lower pressure are at least as fast o r faster…. Put you glorified £ 200-400 computers into good use people and try things for yourself instead of forming opinions on assumptions and selected pieces of incomplete, irrelevant and misleading marketing BS.BBB
Keep 28mm. You’re not going
Keep 28mm. You’re not going to be slower (eve though it may feel that way). No need to use 23mm unless you do TT.BBB
Go for the widest Duranos or
Go for the widest Duranos or Gatorskins (28 – 32mm) your frame can take and drop the pressure by 20-40 PSI. You’ll just as fast or faster with more comfort and fewer punctures. There’s no point of running any tyres at 100PSI or more on typical roads, unless you’re too heavy for the given tyre width and suffer pinch flats.BBB
Have a look at Endura F260
Have a look at Endura F260 Pro long sleeve jersey.
Not strictly a base layer but it’s very thin with front windproof panels (chest and arms) and breathable rear.
It works for me from 5 to 14 deg either on its own or with base layers.http://www.evanscycles.com/products/endura/fs260-pro-jetstream-iii-jersey-ec047590
BBB
You don’t need cycling
You don’t need cycling specific clothes to ride a bike. There’s plenty of outdoor/hiking gear that will do the same or similar job and will probably make you look better, too.BBB
Pair of RSP Astrums or a Moon
Pair of RSP Astrums or a Moon Shield.
Both way brighter/visible than most of expensive lights.August 28, 2014 at 12:43 pm in reply to: what are the benefits of shaving your legs….seriously #741099BBB
I don’t care in the slightest
I don’t care in the slightest if anyone does or doesn’t shave their legs and I wouldn’t take part in any discussions about it if… it wasn’t the irritating mildly brainwashed minority of prats imposing their way of doing things and their sense of aesthetics onto the rest of the cycling population.You are guys not much different from some deluded naturists claiming that walking around with your dangling willy out is “more natural” or vegetarians trying to convince you about the superiority of their diets or die hard roadies who believe that 23mm tubs is all everyone should be ever riding…
Being a part of a subculture/sect/tribe tends to kill one’s objectivity to a certain extent.As shavers you are effectively freaks and members of a micro scale minority of cycling nerds. Most of other cyclists won’t give your smooth calves a second glance and most of non-cycling population think you look like idiots. Just because YOU prefer the look of shaven legs does not mean that objectively they look better. Oh and no, most of women don’t “dig it”. Get real.
Having said all that… I wouldn’t go back to hairy legs. Buying an epilator next week 😉
BBB
HalfWheeler wrote:BBB
HalfWheeler wrote:BBB wrote:HalfWheeler wrote:The difference between cycling on a hybrid compared with cycling on a road bike is like the difference between running in a pair of Doc Martens and running in a pair of trainers.It’s really all about tyres. A hybrid with GP4000s is more fun to ride than
any road bike with Marathon Pluses.
For anything other than racing and competitive fast clun runs road bikes are way overrated.Overrated? Mmm, curious choice of words. Plenty of people neither race nor go out on fast club runs (including myself for many years) and ride road bikes. Why? Well, try doing 50, 60, 70 mile runs (or even more!) on a bolt upright hybrid in windy Britain and you’ll know why.
By “overrated” I meant performance gains that some people here quote. Road bikes may feel faster due to more sensitive steering, lighter weight and (too)narrow tyres at 100PSI but as I said in my previous post any rigid bike from a hybrid to a mountain bike set up correctly (aero position) and with the right tyres can be just as fast (let’s not argue about fractions of a single mph) and pleasant to ride. I’ve done many long rides on various bikes from a 5″ full susp mountain bike with locked suspension and reversed and slammed stem (it wasn’t slow or uncomfortable during a 66m ride round the IOW) to a carbon road bike.
Setup and tyres are (almost) everything.As for a “bolt upright hybrid” it’s an extreme example but anyway I see too many weekend warriors on “endurance” road bikes riding in semi upright position and not using drops in strong winds… They can’t go lower due to the size of their bellies, lack of flexibility and lack of a proper fit (bent back, not rotating the pelvis forward etc) so their road bikes aren’t really that “fast” and comfortable after all.
BBB
Chris James wrote:BBB
Chris James wrote:BBB wrote:HalfWheeler wrote:The difference between cycling on a hybrid compared with cycling on a road bike is like the difference between running in a pair of Doc Martens and running in a pair of trainers.It’s really all about tyres. A hybrid with GP4000s is more fun to ride than
any road bike with Marathon Pluses.
For anything other than racing and competitive fast clun runs road bikes are way overrated.I guess it depends what you are used to. I tend to the view that hybrids are pointless.
For the record I don’t think hybrids make sense either and they are nothing more than a creation of marketers.
“Fast” narrow tyres are wasted on a bike with upright position and most of 35mm ish tyres are low-end slow rollers anyway.
Comfort/city/fitness/urban bikes should be fitted with high volume tyres like Schwalbe Supermotos or even fast rolling XC tyres.
The bike in the picture is what I’ve been using for commuting, sportives and weekend rides for a few years. It’s a perfect compromise. With the right tyres (AKA Pluma, Furious Fred or Racing Ralph (run tubeless) it’s fast on the road (within 0.5mph compared to a road bike) and uber comfortable in the urban jungle (Southampton cycle network…)BBB
HalfWheeler wrote:The
HalfWheeler wrote:The difference between cycling on a hybrid compared with cycling on a road bike is like the difference between running in a pair of Doc Martens and running in a pair of trainers.It’s really all about tyres. A hybrid with GP4000s is more fun to ride than
any road bike with Marathon Pluses.
For anything other than racing and competitive fast clun runs road bikes are way overrated.BBB
Any bike (even a rigid MTB)
Any bike (even a rigid MTB) with fast rolling tyres (not necessary narrow ones) and slammed stem will be as “fast” as a road bike, but drop bars are more comfortable on longer rides. Another vote on a CX bike.BBB
All you need for navigation
All you need for navigation is a basic Garmin unit like Etrex10. -
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