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Rigid mtb with drop bars.
Rigid mtb with drop bars. With fast xc tyres you’ll be able to keep up with roadies. At least based on my experience…To the OP.
You may be
To the OP.
You may be over-analysing it.
It will make **** all difference to your average speed, acceleration and enjoyment of riding whichever half decent wheels you’re going to choose, especially as in your own words you are a “big lump”.
Pick the ones that look good.Surely spending £600 on a
Surely spending £600 on a powermeter (e.g. Stages) isn’t as extravagant as £200-300 on a glorified cycle computer with a GPS function…Most of fast riders don’t
Most of fast riders don’t have a powermeter.
Almost all slow riders simply don’t ride enough.
😉Good suggestions for a…
Good suggestions for a… recovery ride 😉For intervals I’d pick something more like a Knife Party…
If you want speed and
If you want speed and puncture resistance, go tubeless.
E.g. Schwalbe One…Pros don’t use it so it can’t
Pros don’t use it so it can’t be beneficial (just like 25mm tyres a few years back) 😉Let’s not confuse assumptions with evidence.
The inner width is 18.4mm so
The inner width is 18.4mm so they should really take any narrow tyre.
25mm GP4000s will probably spread nicely to 27-28mm on it.When it’s dry…
When it’s dry…Simon E wrote:
Lights are NOT
Lights are NOT needed in daylight, whether on bikes, motorbikes or cars. Sadly, that doesn’t stop stupid people using them.Flashing lights during daylight on a bicycle make perfect sense in many places (tree canopy, shadows etc…)
Sadly some stupid people don’t understand it.I think people mentioning
I think people mentioning “underinflation” as a cause of pinch flats are completely missing the point of tubeless and pneumatic tyres in general.With tubes, the lowest pressure you can run is indeed dictated by pinch flats.
With tubeless it is NOT. It’s limited only by bike handling and a chance of strong rim strikes.What many people don’t realise is that on many roads (especially in the UK) the optimal (fastest and much more comfortable) pressure is BELOW of what they typically run with tubes.
Unless you’re on a velodrome, every single PSI less from your usual 90-120PSI can give you extra speed and much more comfort.Get some 32/28H Hope/H Plus
Get some 32/28H Hope/H Plus Son Archetype (or similar wide rims) wheels (+ some 28mm tyres) and forget about fancy low spoke count marketing nonsense.
“Designer” wheels are not going to make you noticeably faster just because they are 100-200g lighter or have fewer spokes, especially at your weight.What “you have always been
What “you have always been told” is irrelevant. Most of people overinflate their tyres (thinking it makes them faster) or use too narrow tyres for their weight and road conditions.A 15% tyre drop method described in the article is a pretty good starting point and sounds about right for your weight. If it works fine for you you can try dropping the pressure even more untill you start having getting pinch flats/rim strikes or handling issues.
On most of roads in the UK you’re likely to be faster by dropping quite a few PSI.P.S. One could also ask why you’re using 23mm tyres on crap roads… They don’t offer any advantages.
You are either doing
You are either doing something wrong or the bike isn’t really the right tool for the job.
Apart from punctures, the carnage you’re describing would be barely acceptable even after 6000 miles.P.S. FULL length mudguards with a big front mudflap make a big difference.
In terms of volume 25mm tyres
In terms of volume 25mm tyres are around 18% larger and therefore can be run at around 20PSI less. The difference is certainly NOT marginal.Gains on rolling resistance with 25mm tyres are certainly greater than 1W when tested on real roads, not steel drums. The worse the road surface, the more significant gains (largely thanks to lower pressure not width per se).
