Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Your speed will be determined
Your speed will be determined mostly by tyre setup, fit and body position not the type of bike, especially in the context of commuting .
An MTB with slammed stem and high end XC tyres will match many road commuting bikes for speed.
You don’t need a training
You don’t need a training plan.
You just need to ride more, consistently… (also through the winter;-)
Schwalbe G-One tubeless
Schwalbe G-One tubeless
Fit, contact points (brake
Fit, contact points (brake levers, bars, tape, saddle) and tyre setup will almost completely determine the feel of the bike.
Vast majority of people would never be able to tell one frame material from another in a “blind” test.
I don’t understand the
I don’t understand the popularity of scew on flexible connector pumps. I’ve used a basic Topeak Peakini pump for ages and it always worked. You push it onto a valve pull the lever away and …. pump it up.
‘ve had exactl the same issue that OP described with Lenzyne pump in the middle of nowhere in winter. I simply left the pump on and attached it to the spokes with a glove…
If you don’t know what you’re
If you don’t know what you’re doing you’ll be there all day swapping components… I feel sorry for the guys in the shop…;-)
No upgrades make a “massive difference” but what matters are tyre setup, contact points (brake levers, saddle, bars, tape) and fit.
Personally I wouldn’t put anything better than Claris or Sora on her frame.
Schwalbe One tubeless in the
Schwalbe One tubeless in the widest size that fits in your frame at the lowest pressure you can get away with.
Knobs will increase rolling
Knobs will increase rolling resistance but tyre design and compound still matter especially as over time the tread will be wearing down.
E.g. 35mm Schwalbe G-One especially when run tubeless, would probably roll at least as fast as many popular commuting road tyres especially hosepipes like Gatorskins. The worse the road surface the bigger the advantage.
Personally my choice for fast comuting would be a pair of Schwalbe 30mm S-Ones run tubeless. On wider rims they would stretch to about 32mm and you wouldn’t need to run them at more than 60-70PSI. Fast comfortable and with ultimate puncture protection.
As for body position, there’s no reason why a cx / all road bike couldn’t be set up like a regular road bike.
I suspect that it’s a simple
I suspect that it’s a simple case of a fairly basic oem wheel built ok ish in the factory but not pre-stressed/tensioned correctly from start and then developing problems over time. The issue of inadequte and uneven spoke tension may be hidden for a while but it’ll come out sooner or later.
Unless you hit something really hard, spokes don’t break just like that so even a single spoke snapping when just riding along indicates a general problem with the quality of the wheel build.Take it to a bike shop.
Take it to a bike shop.
The OP isn’t blaming anyone.
The OP isn’t blaming anyone.
He merely implies that having a bright flashing light and racing in the early morning in fair weather conditions reduces the probability of being struck by a distracted, careless idiot behind the wheel. You can’t argue with that.
Some people here need to come down a little. You can quote HC all day if you want but being in the right doesn’t make much difference when you’re dead.
Have you had any problems
Have you had any problems with your SPD pedals/shoes?
It wasn’t my best day to be
It wasn’t my best day to be honest. Still… 28mm are so sexy… 😉
PennineRider wrote:
The OP wants advice on a new bike purchase. You told him not to consider any bike without clearance for 28mm. That wasn’t helpful, given that most people ride 23/25mm just fine, so your advice would narrow his choices unnecessarily. I’ll elide the rest of your rant as it isn’t relevant. This is a thread for beginner advice. Let’s not have a stupid dick -waving argument in it.Oh and you don’t need to run 28mm tyres for “comfort”. You don’t need to run 28mm tyres on a road bike at all. It’s a red herring.There is a difference between being comfortable and being used to discomfort.
25mm is just a meaningless number that marketers put in your head, just like 23mm in last few decades.
What makes you think that 25mm is what everyone needs? Is it because pros use them? Is it because jurnos tell you so? Why not 23mm used by roadie sheep for decades? Why not 30mm?
Have you done some extensive testing on various road surfaces asking different riders weighing from 10 to 20 st about their comfort and came to conclusion that 25mm is what they all need?
When it comes to tyres I always believed that the only way to find out what (un)comfortable, wide, narrow, soft, hard is… is to test the extreme ends of the scale. Otherwise you won’t have a slightest clue what you’re talking about.
It’s becoming rare these days to find a bike restricting one’s tyre choice to 25mm. Many endurance bikes come with 28mm tyres as standard for a good reason and I can assure you that those who spend some time on them, won’t have any reason to go narrower.
My advice to OP: Get a bike that allows you to experiment with tyre widths and pressure and to work out FOR YOURSELF what you are comfortable with instead of relying on what “everyone else” rides.
Your “advice” to OP: I’m comfortable with 25mm, so should you and everyone else.
Was my post a rant? Maybe, but it wasn’t about tyre width per se but about herd like roadie mentality that throws newcomers into a matrix world of established standards that they “should” be using. For decades it was a case with 23mm tyres on narrow rims at over 100PSI… They’ve never made sense for amateur riders but hey that’s what pros, jurnos and club gurus were using…
Baaa!
PennineRider wrote:
Oh and you don’t need to run 28mm tyres for “comfort”. You don’t need to run 28mm tyres on a road bike at all. It’s a red herring.There is a difference between being comfortable and being used to discomfort.
25mm is just a meaningless number that marketers put in your head, just like 23mm in last few decades.
What makes you think that 25mm is what everyone needs? Is it because pros use them? Is it because jurnos tell you so? Why not 23mm used by roadie sheep for decades? Why not 30mm?
Have you done some extensive testing on various road surfaces asking different riders weighing from 10 to 20 st about their comfort and came to conclusion that 25mm is what they all need?
When it comes to tyres I always believed that the only way to find out what (un)comfortable, wide, narrow, soft, hard is… is to test the extreme ends of the scale. Otherwise you won’t have a slightest clue what you’re talking about.
