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The best mechanical brake available is not Spyre but Paul Klamper. £200 though…….
I saw these advertised in an American magazine just before I ordered my Spyres and a little internet digging revealed some very mixed reviews. One guy reckoned that only a fool would spend so much on such outdated, heavy and mediocre kit.
Although I know they are the old single-piston design, cost double the price of Spyres and have a look only a mother could love, I’ve never used them, neither do I know anyone who has, so I can’t comment on their efficiency.
I’ve been using a Klamper for a few months on my drop bar commuter (front only, sintered pads).
Performance is on a pair with hydraulic systems. Yes, it uses “outdated” tech and a single moving piston so in theory should be inferior to brakes like Spyre or hydros, but it’s not. I believe that almost all negative reviews come from people who never used one and make too many assumptions.
For the record I work on modern (overengineered) road bikes with both mechanical and hydraulic systems which gives me a good scale of reference.
Hybrid systems make no sense
Hybrid systems make no sense whatsoever. They cannot physically offer better feel, power and modulation because still rely on a steel cable… The only single advantage is self adjustment for pad wear.
Correctly designed, executed and set up mechanical system can be at least as good as hydraulics. Personally I prefer my Paul Klamper with Campy levers to a typical drop bar hydraulic system e.g. from Shimano.
The best mechanical brake
The best mechanical brake available is not Spyre but Paul Klamper. £200 though…
It’s the only caliper with the moving piston guided via pins which guarantees that the pads are always square to the rotor = smallest possible gap with no rub. It runs on oversized ball bearings and uses thrust bearing for the actuation arm insted of bushing/washer. You also have big dials on both sides for easy pad adjustment.
Cable routing is always critical. Run it short and smooth. Ignore existing frame guides/stops if they create tight bends.
Get a 44-46T narrow wide
Get a 44-46T narrow wide chainring and try it. It’s as simple as that. You don’t need any dedicated groupset for that.
Personally, having run 44 and 46 rings with 11-25 to 11-32 10 sp cassettes for a few years on my commuter and Sun best, I can’t see any reason to go back to a front mech.
It’s all about the experience of simplicity.
Speed (engine aside) is
Speed (engine aside) is determined by tyre setup, rider’s position and up to certain extent weight, not by what the bike is called.
Weight aside, I’d go for the
Weight aside, I’d go for the far east option. Dt hub, brass nipples, Sapim CX-Ray spokes (preferably J-bend) and NORMAL spoke pattern just make more sense in every aspect. U-shaped rims appear to have a good reputation, too. I’ve been trashing mine for well over a year.
If you are driven largely by
If you are driven largely by nostalgia, get a nice retro Bianchi frame on Ebay and put Veloce or Potenza groupset and some hand build wheels on it. The build will have more style and character than any current Bianchi model. You can search for pictures of “neo retro road bikes” for inspiration.
No, you won’t be any slower.
Dunlop is probably turning in
Dunlop is probably turning in his grave right now…
Go tubeless. Schwalbe G-One tubeless, 30mm Speed or 35mmAllround version depending on your frame clearance. Wider tyres run softer will be just as fast but significantly more resistant to cuts.
Comparing to a tubeless
Comparing to a tubeless system, apart from slight weight saving, irrelevant to most of amateur cyclists, this hybrid system would only have disadvantages; higher rolling resistance and inability to fit an inner tube quickly in cases when sealant can’t seal larger holes.
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I’ve seen riders not being
I’ve seen riders not being able to hold seed but never wheels.
I usually reply with Air
In cases like that I usually reply with Air Zound and appropriate “you idiot” gesture.
As usual, people running
As usual, people running tubeless tyres recommend them (based on overwhelmingly positive experience) and those who never tried them, quote the whole list of “problems”… with the technology…
Moon Nebula.
Moon Nebula.
Around 100 lumens but with a sensible 270 deg spread. It works more like a very brigth mini lantern/ light strip rather than a spot light.
Comes with a number of mounts that allow you to put it anywhere you want.
I can’t think about a better second rear light.
Meanwhile overhelming
Meanwhile overhelming majority of cyclists maintain their weight and fitness just as well or better without any “special” diets.
