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Chris James.
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November 23, 2016 at 1:30 pm #26515
tugglesthegreat
I’ve been commuting a 13 mile journey to work for nearly two years now on a mountain bike, and I’ve just bought a cyclocross thinking it would be significantly faster. I record almost all my commutes and rides but I’ve not found the cyclocross to be significantly faster than the MTB.
I’ve not ridden a road bike/cyclocross for over 20 years before getting my new bike and I have had to have a period of adjustment, but still I would expect it to be faster.
I feel as I’m putting in as much effort. There is obviously a difference in the MTB being able to accelerate faster and the cyclocross cruising faster, but considering most of the route is on road, the lack of difference between the two is a bit strange.
What am a doing wrong?
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Chris James
ClubSmed wrote:
ClubSmed wrote:
The important part to note of this is IF the commute is mainly road. Having just got back now from cycling along a canal path through what looked like frozen snow (though I don’t remember it snowing) I think my 90psi knobbly tyres gripped through it far better than slicks. That sort of situation is only going to increase over winter so I’m certainly going to stick with what I’ve got until Spring. If the OP has a similar commute I suggest he do the sameChris James wrote:If the commute is mostly on road then road tyres are suitable. Knobbly tyres at 90psi probably give less grip than slicks tyres because there is less tyre material in contact with the road.But you would get so much more grip running your knobbly tyres at a lower pressure.
Obviously tyre choice should be appropriate to the surfaces that you will be going along. The OP said his route was urban roads and park tracks, so sounds like it is mostly, perhaps totally, tarmac. I know leaves have been mentioned earlier but these just require a bit of care, in the same way as wet surfaces, not a different tyre. My shared use path section is currently covered in leaves and I ride along there at 20mph in the pitch dark. The canal tow path is actually made easier by leaves as they fill in the surface irregularities and give a more forgiving ride.
Knobbly tyres at 90psi have a lot less grip on wet corners on the road than a road tyre though. In fact they are explicitly banned as dangerous from level 2 road and time trial activities by BC because of the lack of grip.
bendertherobot
tugglesthegreat wrote:bendertherobot wrote:For leaves read ice. Nothing works apart from being very careful.I’d go with something like the Schwalbe G-One. You can get them non tubeless now.
http://nextdaytyres.co.uk/details.aspx/11600774-29-Schwalbe-G-ONEAllroundGravel-135/1881/4163
They seem a great tyre but I like the look of the price of the conti CX speeds seen some for a pair for the same price of the G-Ones.
That argument works in relation to a lot of tyres. But the G-One are a superb tyre and better than the Conti.
tugglesthegreat
bendertherobot wrote:For leaves read ice. Nothing works apart from being very careful.I’d go with something like the Schwalbe G-One. You can get them non tubeless now.
http://nextdaytyres.co.uk/details.aspx/11600774-29-Schwalbe-G-ONEAllroundGravel-135/1881/4163
They seem a great tyre but I like the look of the price of the conti CX speeds seen some for a pair for the same price of the G-Ones.
bendertherobot
For leaves read ice. Nothing
For leaves read ice. Nothing works apart from being very careful.
I’d go with something like the Schwalbe G-One. You can get them non tubeless now.
http://nextdaytyres.co.uk/details.aspx/11600774-29-Schwalbe-G-ONEAllroundGravel-135/1881/4163
tugglesthegreat
ClubSmed wrote:
ClubSmed wrote:
The important part to note of this is IF the commute is mainly road. Having just got back now from cycling along a canal path through what looked like frozen snow (though I don’t remember it snowing) I think my 90psi knobbly tyres gripped through it far better than slicks. That sort of situation is only going to increase over winter so I’m certainly going to stick with what I’ve got until Spring. If the OP has a similar commute I suggest he do the sameChris James wrote:If the commute is mostly on road then road tyres are suitable. Knobbly tyres at 90psi probably give less grip than slicks tyres because there is less tyre material in contact with the road.The route is mostly on road, but there are currently nasty leafy sections and sections of dirt in the parks. Before the dark nights and when the weather was ok, I was taking an alternative route taking in parks and avoiding traffic. This alternative route takes in tracks through wood, open park land and park dirt tracks, so is a true mix terrain route.
I might try a different CX tyre, conti CX speed seem interesting and reasonably priced.
ClubSmed
Chris James wrote:
Chris James wrote:
If the commute is mostly on road then road tyres are suitable. Knobbly tyres at 90psi probably give less grip than slicks tyres because there is less tyre material in contact with the road.
The important part to note of this is IF the commute is mainly road. Having just got back now from cycling along a canal path through what looked like frozen snow (though I don’t remember it snowing) I think my 90psi knobbly tyres gripped through it far better than slicks. That sort of situation is only going to increase over winter so I’m certainly going to stick with what I’ve got until Spring. If the OP has a similar commute I suggest he do the sametugglesthegreat
Chris James wrote:Daveyraveygravey wrote:I don’t think you said how wide the tyres were on your crosser?It’ll be either 32 or 35 for small block 8s.
They are the 35c small block 8s and the bike is a Pinnacle Arkose 3.
Chris James
Daveyraveygravey wrote:I don’t think you said how wide the tyres were on your crosser?It’ll be either 32 or 35 for small block 8s.
Daveyraveygravey
I don’t think you said how
I don’t think you said how wide the tyres were on your crosser?
You did say there is a steep hill up the North Downs (not Pebble Hill is it?!). I would have a look at your segment times up this hill, I would expect this is where you are getting the most benefit from the cx bike, assuming it is significantly lighter than the mtb. If you have a lot of stop/start traffic, then that will really nullify the higher cruising speed you would expect on the cx bike.
I only have a road bike and an MTB, most of my mates have all three types. When we do off road routes, they sometimes use their cx bikes, and I really find I struggle to keep up with them, unless I have picked the route and gone for an evil amount of muddy hard climbs (!) As far as I am concerned, a cx bike should be faster than an MTB on mainly paved roads. It should also take considerably less effort to ride at the same speed as an MTB.
The examples you posted showed 0.7 mph average speed increase, 5% is not to be sniffed at in an hour.
Chris James
I can’t really see the point
I can’t really see the point of using knobbly tyres and then pumping them up to 90psi.
My commute is 13 miles each way including road, canal towpath and shared use path. I usually go on my audax bike (25mm tyres) because it has mudguards. The road sections are nice, but there is a 3/4 mile or so of canal towpath which is a bit uncomfortable. The cross bike commutes on Schwalbe CX pros at around 50 psi (they are only 30mm wide and there are some buried sets on the towpath so I need more pressure than normal for a cross bike to avoid pinch flats). The cross bike is usually about 2 minutes slower that the audax bike – approx. 49 and 47 mins respectively. I take the cross bike when I have to go back a different route, which adds another about 7 miles of rutted canal towpath and then it really comes into its own.
If the commute is mostly on road then road tyres are suitable. Knobbly tyres at 90psi probably give less grip than slicks tyres because there is less tyre material in contact with the road.
As regards acceleration, 26 inch wheels with 1.95 in tyres would have a larger effective diameter than 700c wheels with 35mm tyres.
ClubSmed
antigee wrote:fair comment I dismissed the headline figure as that was at a very low psi – irrespective may be look at the road tyre numbers rather than touring tyres?I would agree if the OP was only commuting on the road but it is a mix of road and park paths that they are using so a fair bit of grip will be needed. You do not want to be battling leaf mulch and ice through park paths in the Autumn/Winter with slicks!
I commute in the winter with Kenda Small Block 8s as I use mainly canal paths and park cycle routes and am very glad of the extra grip at this time of year!
ClubSmed
tugglesthegreat wrote:antigee wrote:pretty sure kenda small block 8’s have their place but not for riding on the road – rolling resistance is the issue – one option with a cx is to run two sets of wheels one for road speed, one for dirt – anything else is a compromise
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/mtb-reviews/kenda-small-block-eight-2015
I’m currently maxed out regarding money, but hopefully in the new year I’ll get some new wheels.
Does seem to be the best solution.
If you mean tyres rather than wheels, don’t bother. The Kenda Small Block 8s are fine if not perfect for winter commuting on the road and through parks. I certainly would not want to deal with ice and leaf mulch with a lesser tread. If you read my previous post on this thread in response to antigee you will see that the rolling resistance review of the Small Block 8 is unfair and not relevent to us.
Come the Spring though it may well be worth you getting a pair of Vittoria Voyager Hyper to take advantage of a low rolling resistance while still maintaining a little bit of grip for the park section.
antigee
Quote:
ClubSmed [86 posts] 1 hour ago
0 likesantigee wrote:
pretty sure kenda small block 8’s have their place but not for riding on the road – rolling resistance is the issue – one option with a cx is to run two sets of wheels one for road speed, one for dirt – anything else is a compromise
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/mtb-reviews/kenda-small-block-ei…(link is external)
Actually I don’t believe that the review of the Small Block 8 on that site is fair. I, and the original poster of this, run the Kenda’s at ~90 psi (which is around the manufacturers recomended) and they were tested at a much lower psi on the site. If you take the 45psi rating and compare it against the touring bike tyre charts at the same psi the Small Block 8s actually come up on the top half of the table so I don’t think that rolling resistance is as bad as the site would have you believe.
The rolling risistance of 27 at 45psi according to the site makes it better than:
Continental Top Contact II @ 28.4
Continental Contact II @ 28.9
Schwalbe Marathon Racer @ 28.9
Continental City Ride II @ 29.8
Schwalbe Marathon Plus @ 28.9
Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Evo @ 38.6
Vredestein Perfect-E @ 32
Vittoria Randonneur @ 38.9
Continental E.Contact @ 39.4fair comment I dismissed the headline figure as that was at a very low psi – irrespective may be look at the road tyre numbers rather than touring tyres?
tugglesthegreat
antigee wrote:pretty sure kenda small block 8’s have their place but not for riding on the road – rolling resistance is the issue – one option with a cx is to run two sets of wheels one for road speed, one for dirt – anything else is a compromise
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/mtb-reviews/kenda-small-block-eight-2015
I’m currently maxed out regarding money, but hopefully in the new year I’ll get some new wheels.
Does seem to be the best solution.
Yorkshie Whippet
Just to throw another thought
Just to throw another thought into the ring. Your MTB could well be quicker as MTBs tend to have gears that are accelerate fast i.e. low ratios. Wheres as the crosser will have higher gearing to cruise. A full blown race bike would have higher gears to cruise even faster.
Example
My mtbs have 22/34/44 and 26/40 on the front, low enough I hope t oget my up hills but absolute buggers to keep rolling at 20mph with spining faster than jet engine.My road bikes are fitted with 34 or 36/50. They don’t go up hills or accelerate faster but are easy to keep rolling at 20mph. I’ve also tried 39/53 and struggled on hills and felt it took an age to get up to speed but cruised very nicely.
So what maybe happening is that the commute may involve a lot of stop start so the mtb is accelerating faster due to the lower gears but thecrosser cruises. As you have stated in you original post.
Bottom line they are two different beasts designed to do different things. Stop comparing them.
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