Best general wheelset?

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  • #19680
    HammerUK

    Hi,

    I have about £1200 maybe a bit more to spend on a new wheelset? I have thought about getting a set of Mavic R-sys wheels or perhaps a dura ace c50 set. Yes I know they are completely different. I guess my question would be what do people think would make the best wheelset for general riding in rolling countryside with a few steep bits thrown in ie southern England riding?

    Any suggestions would be appreciated!

    Thanks

Viewing 14 replies - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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  • #753205
    0
    700c

    + 1 on what Racing Condor
    + 1 on what Racing Condor wrote. Advantage of tubs is reduced rim weight, also less chance of flats.

    Not actually had to change one due to a puncture. This is over 1200 miles so far, but I don’t tend to puncture much on clinchers either (touches wood). I carry a spare and some Victoria pit stop sealant canister.

    If this is your budget, I think tubular has to be on your list, TBH – carbon clinchers are still somewhat compromised – the best ones less so – but they are above your budget.

    £1K+ is a lot to spend on wheels, granted – but of course this is relative and will vary from individual to individual. Some people would say £1K is a lot to spend on a complete bike…

    I don’t know why Simon E assumes you are spending £1200 ‘just to keep up with the club run’ – but if this is the case, then yes, I would advise training instead!

    #753203
    0
    racingcondor

    BBB wrote:Why bother with

    BBB wrote:
    Why bother with tubs if tubeless tyres run on wider rims will render them obsolete pretty soon.

    Because they won’t. Clinchers will still weigh more at the rim and will still be suceptable to pinch flats.

    Clinchers and tubeless have caught up in rolling resistance (and probably win in the fight for Aero thanks to things lke firecrest) but tubs are great.

    OP – Fulcrum 3’s or RS80’s are everything you need in a factory wheel but I wouldn’t let that stop you. The C50’s are a great allrounder (for a carbon wheel).

    #753201
    0
    BBB

    Handuilt:
    DT 180 hubs, Sapim

    Handuilt:
    DT 180 hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, Stans Alfa 400 rims.

    Then get some tubeless Schwalbe “One” tyres (avail. in Sep) and you’re sorted.

    Why bother with tubs if tubeless tyres run on wider rims will render them obsolete pretty soon.

    #753199
    0
    Simon E

    £1200 to keep up with the
    £1200 to keep up with the club run? Fork me! You could get some serious coaching for a lot less than that. Or a motorbike.

    Some 50mm aero wheels won’t turn a donkey into a racehorse, if you excuse the comparison. Being able to ride safely in the group (if you don’t do this already) will save far more watts than some carbon hoops. Also, reducing wheels weight doesn’t make as much difference on climbs as you might wish.

    A nice handbuilt wheelset and fast-rolling tyres may be a more rewarding investment – it’s what I’d get now if I could justify it.

    #753197
    0
    HammerUK

    Thanks for the advice. I have
    Thanks for the advice. I have been reluctant to move to tubs due to the ease of changing flats with clinchers. Is there much of a problem with sorting out a flats with tubulars?

    Sorry in advance for my ignorance!

    Thanks

    #753195
    0
    700c

    update: A quick google of the
    update: A quick google of the above wheelset I mentioned shows it at under £1,000 reduced from £1900 at CRC, leaving you change for decent tubs, a spare, glue and more..

    #753193
    0
    700c

    £1200! Wow.
    You could

    £1200! Wow.

    You could consider some alternatives – e.g. there have been some great reductions at CRC recently on Reynolds wheels – both the 32 or the 46. Assume you are happy to go tubular at this price..

    I got the 46 recently – they have transformed my ride – sub 1200 grams for an aerodynamic wheelset which climb fantastically. backed by warranty and crash protection plan. They are my general purpose summer wheels, can turn their hand to TT’s and are very efficient especially in bunch riding. I don’t use them in the wet or on v windy days, however.

    But note that the law of diminishing returns will apply. a £1200 wheelset will not be 4 X better than a £300 set!

    If you are spending money on equipment some on the forum will always be against this as a concept. I do agree that it’s pointless if you don’t train much, can’t get into an aerodnamic position, or are really fat, but you can have a sensible discussion about equipment and performance with the presumption that you already do all the right things to keep in good shape.

    #753191
    0
    thebungle

    In that case would you
    In that case would you advocate for the cheapest wheels possible?

    #753189
    0
    abandoneur

    SammyG wrote:New wheels arent

    SammyG wrote:
    New wheels arent going to help.

    True, you could try training properly.

    #753187
    0
    spongebob

    New wheels arent going to
    New wheels arent going to help.

    #753185
    0
    HammerUK

    Thanks guys. My current
    Thanks guys. My current wheels are fulcrums which are pretty good I was just looking for something that might help with hanging in their on fast club rides etc. Hence thinking about Dura Ace c50s. Not sure how much speed improvement they would really give!

    #753183
    0
    hotweathercyclist

    Get a pair of Pro-lite
    Mine

    Get a pair of Pro-lite

    Mine have out lasted my Fulcrum racing zeros!

    😉

    #753181
    0
    badkneestom

    My 2013 Fulcrum 3’s are
    My 2013 Fulcrum 3’s are great. Campy reliability.

    #753179
    0
    dunnoh

    I’ve just got a pair of 2014
    I’ve just got a pair of 2014 Fulcrum 5’s and I think they are sliced bread. Ever so happy with them and a joy on the North Wests crater filled roads

Viewing 14 replies - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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