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+1 for Fulcrums, very
+1 for Fulcrums, very efficient and you can swap the freehub between Shimano and Campag in about 3 minutes (once you’ve got the cassette off).
Use a steel rule or tape
Use a steel rule or tape measure. Edge to edge of 12 complete links on a tight chain should be exactly 12″ or 304.8mm if you’re going all metric.Chain checkers only measure over 6″ or so, so you don’t get such an accurate result, and can be inaccurate for a variety of complex reasons, see http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch
Shimano short cage rear mechs
Shimano short cage rear mechs work up to 28t. You’ll need a medium cage rear mech.
It might not, but you won’t
It might not, but you won’t know till you try it!Let us all know whether it works or not.
Yeah something like that. You
Yeah something like that. You wouldn’t necessarily have to bond it to the steerer, but you don’t want any movement. Get the machinist to copy the shape of the Canyon steerer.
Can you get a spacer sleeve
Can you get a spacer sleeve machined up? drop it over the current steerer and it fits into the bearings. All you need is for the OD to be 1 1/4 at the top and 1 1/2 at the bottom. That should slot into the existing bearings.Of course, it will violate the guarantees of both fork and frame, but hey…
Use a Canyon fork. It’s an
Use a Canyon fork. It’s an excellent fork, and it will fit perfectly.
I had it with a brand new
I had it with a brand new Ultegra 6700 setup. Tried everything, eventually changed groupsets. It just never shifted cleanly. Was worst from about the 21 to the 17, that part of the cassette, noisy, always trying to shift up or down again all the time.There’s too much friction in the cable under the bars, I reckon, and the derailleur spring isn’t strong enough to pull it across against that friction. That’s the only explanation I could find, having done everything, even straightened the (straight) hanger.
By comparison the Ultegra 6600 setup with exposed cables on my winter bike worked straight off and is still working perfectly thousands of km later despite all kinds of weather. As is the Campag setup that replaced the 6700.
Why not just change the
Why not just change the cheaper smaller inner ring to your favoured 34?That would give you 52/34 and 11/28. Shimano gear set-ups are very tolerant of misfits like this. It should work fine!
Under a tenner at Rose Bikes: http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-ultegra-fc-6800-chainring/aid:713810?gclid=COXml7fjr8ICFRHHtAodlxoAFQ
And if it doesn’t work, you’ve only wasted a tenner.
None of those locking hubs
None of those locking hubs work. All a thief has to do is slightly overtighten the cones on the non-drive-side bearings or left hand front bearing and the wheels fall out. Doesn’t even damage the bearings. Widely known but not widely publicised!
Completely unnecessary, the
Completely unnecessary, the bolt seals tightly against the alloy or carbon cap, and if you use a titanium or stainless bolt there really is absolutely no need for a cap at all.In fact what if moisture built up under your rubber cap and it rusted silently away where you couldn’t see it until the whole front end collapsed? It could happen!
Having only had Shimano in
Having only had Shimano in the past I built up my first Campag bike this summer, not too hard at all if you’re handy with bikes. Yes you need a new bb tool, a bigger torque wrench for the split crank (if using UltraTorque cranks ie Chorus and above), a Campag cassette lockring tool and a special chain tool with a ‘peening anvil’, but it’s totally worth it.Looks are subjective but it looks the part, shifts perfectly from day 1, and in my view, the hoods feel nicer in your hands.
I got a twig in my front Crud
I got a twig in my front Crud RoadRacer 2, it just folded up on itself and the twig got spat out. I was able to straighten it out, reattach the stays, and continue on my way. It’s still on there.
No difference on the hoods to
No difference on the hoods to steering, as the steerer-to-hoods distance will be the same, but it will be more twitchy when riding on the tops.
Check out the Road.cc review
Check out the Road.cc review of bikes under £500:http://road.cc/content/news/72001-best-entry-level-road-bikes-under-%C2%A3500
Can’t go wrong. Or, buy second hand, always loads of bargains about at this time of year.