Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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AfterPeak wrote:
Building your own bike is way way more expensive but so much more satisfying. Its mainly all the tools required that I found to be the expensive bit but now I could swap components or change a frame in half a day so you can keep your bike up to date and do all the maintenance (Bar a couple of jobs I would leave for the experts). Park tools are the best but as you expect they are the most expensive (I would get their cable cutters). I basically brought a tool here and there and any brand as long as the reviews are good.What is the best company/place to buy all of the required parts from? Does building your own bike work out cheaper than buying one? ThanksBuilding your own bike is miles cheaper. You don’t need ‘all the tools’ on the first day. If you shop around for parts you can save literally thousands of pounds, as I have done with all my bikes. And you end up with something unique, not just built to a profit margin.
They’re mountain bike shorts.
They’re mountain bike shorts… How can us roadies offer advice?
Does it have vertical
Does it have vertical dropouts at the rear or the older, so-called ‘horizontal’ (actuall angled) dropouts?
I’ve found the thickness of chrome on the ‘horizontal’ dropouts sometimes stops the axle sliding as far back as it needs to. A bit of light filing works wonders.
You can also adjust the position of the axle with the small screws, once you’re sure that the axle actually fits properly into the slot.
Reynolds 653 was considered to build up into a very stiff and racey frame back in the day. My Brian Rourke from 2000 is 653, it’s brilliant. The bike looks like a keeper to me, good find!
Brifters were introduced in the early 1990s, so it looks to me to be entirely original.
One thing: the loop of cable to the rear derailleur should go outside the seatstay, not inside!
Does it have vertical
Does it have vertical dropouts at the rear or the older, so-called ‘horizontal’ (actuall angled) dropouts?
I’ve found the thickness of chrome on the ‘horizontal’ dropouts sometimes stops the axle sliding as far back as it needs to. A bit of light filing works wonders.
You can also adjust the position of the axle with the small screws, once you’re sure that the axle actually fits properly into the slot.
Reynolds 653 was considered to build up into a very stiff and racey frame back in the day. My Brian Rourke from 2000 is 653, it’s brilliant. The bike looks like a keeper to me, good find!
Brifters were introduced in the early 1990s, so it looks to me to be entirely original.
Get the CAAD 10, superb alloy
Get the CAAD 10, superb alloy frame and Shimano’s second tier groupset. Sounds like a bargain if it’s the right size for you!
Oh yes, this is a bargain:
Oh yes, this is a bargain:
https://www.merlincycles.com/bianchi-infinito-cv-disc-carbon-frameset-138401.html?source=PHG
Agree with the others, it’s
Agree with the others, it’s usually the quick releases, the chainring bolts, the headset, or the saddle. Unless you have a pressfit bottom bracket, then you’re in a world of pain I’m afraid.
At that price you’d be better
At that price you’d be better looking at a bike with a superb modern alloy frame rather than cheap carbon made to a price.
Are you sure you have a front
Are you sure you have a front brake, and not two back brakes?
Have installed loads of brakes over the years, never had this problem.
Agree that SJS is your best bet for a fix.
Get a professional repair and
Get a professional repair and relax. Carbon can be repaired, but I wouldn’t recommend trying it yourself.
I’ve used a Praxis Works
I’ve used a Praxis Works converter to sort out a Bianchi PF30 bottom bracket for Campag. Putting it in was an experience, you’ll need a pair of long wrenches and belief that it will do up enough to fit the cranks together, but we got there in the end. Solid as a rock!
My wife also wanted a step
My wife also wanted a step-through frame, so I found a step-through carbon touring frame from High On Bikes, would have been about 7 years ago, anyway, with flat bars and 105 it built up to about 8.5kg, could probably go lighter if I’d spent more:
She’d never had a bike anything like as light as this and is very happy with it.
I often use this “mock time trial” position, it’s noticeably much, much faster than riding with forearms horizontal on the hoods. That said, there is less control.If you want to get more aero whilst keeping control, you can turn your arms inwards and roll your shoulders forwards whilst keeping your hands/palms on the hoods – this is certainly faster.
I can’t quantify any of this of course, but it is noticeable when riding at a steady effort.
Rolling the shoulders forward makes a big difference. It’s like free speed. Can’t see why, but I’ve often felt the difference riding into the wind.
Thanks for the comments so far.Slight curveball, for budget of £1500 would you go carbon or aluminium?
If you’re buying new, go for a top end alloy frame that will be worth a better groupset and wheels when you are feeling flush. It will ride much better than a low end carbon frame. Good alloy feels lively and sharp: cheap carbon just feels dull.
The 80s steel bike with quill
The 80s steel bike with quill stem will have a tiny frontal area compared to the modern bike….