matthewn5

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Viewing 15 replies - 241 through 255 (of 830 total)
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  • in reply to: old bike worth restoring ??? #946037
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    matthewn5

    Does it have vertical

    Does it have vertical dropouts at the rear or the older, so-called ‘horizontal’ (actuall angled) dropouts?

    https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/images/0/62550-largest_Sheldon_dropouts.jpg

    I’ve found the thickness of chrome on the ‘horizontal’ dropouts sometimes stops the axle sliding as far back as it needs to. A bit of light filing works wonders.

    You can also adjust the position of the axle with the small screws, once you’re sure that the axle actually fits properly into the slot.

    Reynolds 653 was considered to build up into a very stiff and racey frame back in the day. My Brian Rourke from 2000 is 653, it’s brilliant. The bike looks like a keeper to me, good find!

    Brifters were introduced in the early 1990s, so it looks to me to be entirely original.

    One thing: the loop of cable to the rear derailleur should go outside the seatstay, not inside!

    in reply to: old bike worth restoring ??? #946035
    0
    matthewn5

    Does it have vertical

    Does it have vertical dropouts at the rear or the older, so-called ‘horizontal’ (actuall angled) dropouts?

    https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/images/0/62550-largest_Sheldon_dropouts.jpg

    I’ve found the thickness of chrome on the ‘horizontal’ dropouts sometimes stops the axle sliding as far back as it needs to. A bit of light filing works wonders.

    You can also adjust the position of the axle with the small screws, once you’re sure that the axle actually fits properly into the slot.

    Reynolds 653 was considered to build up into a very stiff and racey frame back in the day. My Brian Rourke from 2000 is 653, it’s brilliant. The bike looks like a keeper to me, good find!

    Brifters were introduced in the early 1990s, so it looks to me to be entirely original.

    in reply to: Road bike buying advice #946599
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    matthewn5

    Get the CAAD 10, superb alloy

    Get the CAAD 10, superb alloy frame and Shimano’s second tier groupset. Sounds like a bargain if it’s the right size for you!

    in reply to: Any decent frame deals anyone’s spotted? #946553
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    matthewn5
    in reply to: Pinging or knocking heard from bottom bracket #945517
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    matthewn5

    Agree with the others, it’s

    Agree with the others, it’s usually the quick releases, the chainring bolts, the headset, or the saddle. Unless you have a pressfit bottom bracket, then you’re in a world of pain I’m afraid.

    in reply to: New road bike, budget £1500 #946243
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    matthewn5

    At that price you’d be better

    At that price you’d be better looking at a bike with a superb modern alloy frame rather than cheap carbon made to a price.

    in reply to: Calliper bolt too short – will longer recessed nut fix? #945753
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    matthewn5

    Are you sure you have a front

    Are you sure you have a front brake, and not two back brakes?
    Have installed loads of brakes over the years, never had this problem.
    Agree that SJS is your best bet for a fix.

    in reply to: Repairing cracked seat post collar #945229
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    matthewn5

    Get a professional repair and

    Get a professional repair and relax. Carbon can be repaired, but I wouldn’t recommend trying it yourself.

    in reply to: Creaking Bottom Bracket #943907
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    matthewn5

    I’ve used a Praxis Works

    I’ve used a Praxis Works converter to sort out a Bianchi PF30 bottom bracket for Campag. Putting it in was an experience, you’ll need a pair of long wrenches and belief that it will do up enough to fit the cranks together, but we got there in the end. Solid as a rock!

    in reply to: Step through frame #943015
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    matthewn5

    My wife also wanted a step

    My wife also wanted a step-through frame, so I found a step-through carbon touring frame from High On Bikes, would have been about 7 years ago, anyway, with flat bars and 105 it built up to about 8.5kg, could probably go lighter if I’d spent more:

    https://serving.photos.photobox.com/39159123dfae2b5c1c3db100c7f358e95ca4ce8ac12d2302bb5101e24faff8ef47d9dc92.jpg

    She’d never had a bike anything like as light as this and is very happy with it.

    in reply to: ‘Mock time trial’ position- any aero advantage? #942523
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    matthewn5
    Canyon48 wrote:
    I often use this “mock time trial” position, it’s noticeably much, much faster than riding with forearms horizontal on the hoods. That said, there is less control.

    If you want to get more aero whilst keeping control, you can turn your arms inwards and roll your shoulders forwards whilst keeping your hands/palms on the hoods – this is certainly faster.

    I can’t quantify any of this of course, but it is noticeable when riding at a steady effort.

    Rolling the shoulders forward makes a big difference. It’s like free speed. Can’t see why, but I’ve often felt the difference riding into the wind.

    in reply to: Bike purchase advice please #942435
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    matthewn5
    steverob55 wrote:
    Thanks for the comments so far. 

     

    Slight curveball, for budget of £1500 would you go carbon or aluminium?

    If you’re buying new, go for a top end alloy frame that will be worth a better groupset and wheels when you are feeling flush. It will ride much better than a low end carbon frame. Good alloy feels lively and sharp: cheap carbon just feels dull.

    in reply to: Overall wattage saving between £900 and £3000 road bike #942091
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    matthewn5

    The 80s steel bike with quill

    The 80s steel bike with quill stem will have a tiny frontal area compared to the modern bike….

    in reply to: Bike Frame (and fork) Protection? #939969
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    matthewn5

    +1 for helicopter tape. If

    +1 for helicopter tape. If you ever need to get it off, warm it slightly with a hair dryer. Comes off easily without residue. Marvellous stuff.

    matthewn5

    +1 for Simply Bearings.

    +1 for Simply Bearings. Excellent service.

Viewing 15 replies - 241 through 255 (of 830 total)