Help identify this vintage Raleigh.

CygnusX1 · 2018-11-10T13:41:14+00:00

Pictures in comments below. Bought a nice pair of Weinmann brake levers from a local house clearance shop. They had this Raleigh frame attached. I'm guessing it's 1970s or possibly earlier. Any clues? BTW The brake levers are going towards a Peugeot rebuild.

This topic has 29 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 6 months ago by HoarseMann.

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November 10, 2018 at 1:41 pm #29124

CygnusX1

Pictures in comments below.

Bought a nice pair of Weinmann brake levers from a local house clearance shop. They had this Raleigh frame attached.

I’m guessing it’s 1970s or possibly earlier. Any clues?

BTW The brake levers are going towards a Peugeot rebuild.
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November 23, 2018 at 6:57 pm #931237
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HoarseMann

CygnusX1 wrote:
Thanks, HoarseMan.

HoarseMann wrote:
Be interesting to know whether you managed to get the 700c wheels to line up with the brake calipers.

Only just.

I had assumed, based on the distance between the drop-outs and the fork crown, that it used to have 27″ (ISO 630) wheels, so a 700c (ISO 622) would mean the brake blocks only need to move approx. 4mm higher to align with the rim (subtract the BSDs -> 630 – 622 = 8, then divide by 2 for difference in radius -> 4).

However when I put the calipers back on the slots for brake shoes were mostly below the rim, so it looked like they were to align with old(est)*** 26″ rims (ISO 590 or 584 depending on cross section), and referring back to the specs in the 1956 catalogue this was confirmed.

So actually the blocks needed to sit about 19 mm higher ((584 – 622)/2). Fortunately there was just enough travel provided in the caliper slots. Otherwise I might have had to resort to Plan 650B (ISO 584).

Anyway, I now know far more about wheel/tyre sizes than I ever wanted to, thanks to Sheldon Brown and this handy page on the Cycling UK website:

https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/wheels-tyres/tyre-sizes

***as opposed to ‘old’ 26″ wheels found on ‘old’ MTBs (ISO 559).

That’s useful to know, thanks. The old steel rims are shot to bits and the braking surface very poor on mine. Plus tyres in the old 26inch size are hard to find and a bit naff. Maybe one day I’ll put some new hoops on it…

November 23, 2018 at 11:43 am #931235
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CygnusX1

davel wrote:
CygnusX1 wrote:
StoopidUserName wrote:
Great thread! So…you gonna restore it?
I think it will cost more than I would likely get in resale value. Plus (including this frame and the Pug rebuild) I am currently at N= M + 3. Where N is number of bikes owned, and M is the number the Mrs knows about.

I love the evolution from this ‘not quite a no’ over the next week…

Cracking thread – nice progress. Looking good.

Thanks davel.

By the way the formula is now at N == M. And I am in the dog-house!

November 23, 2018 at 11:28 am #931233
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CygnusX1

Thanks, HoarseMan.

Thanks, HoarseMan.

HoarseMann wrote:
Be interesting to know whether you managed to get the 700c wheels to line up with the brake calipers.

Only just.

I had assumed, based on the distance between the drop-outs and the fork crown, that it used to have 27″ (ISO 630) wheels, so a 700c (ISO 622) would mean the brake blocks only need to move approx. 4mm higher to align with the rim (subtract the BSDs -> 630 – 622 = 8, then divide by 2 for difference in radius -> 4).

However when I put the calipers back on the slots for brake shoes were mostly below the rim, so it looked like they were to align with old(est)*** 26″ rims (ISO 590 or 584 depending on cross section), and referring back to the specs in the 1956 catalogue this was confirmed.

So actually the blocks needed to sit about 19 mm higher ((584 – 622)/2). Fortunately there was just enough travel provided in the caliper slots. Otherwise I might have had to resort to Plan 650B (ISO 584).

Anyway, I now know far more about wheel/tyre sizes than I ever wanted to, thanks to Sheldon Brown and this handy page on the Cycling UK website:

https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/wheels-tyres/tyre-sizes

***as opposed to ‘old’ 26″ wheels found on ‘old’ MTBs (ISO 559).

November 23, 2018 at 9:33 am #931231
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davel

CygnusX1 wrote:

CygnusX1 wrote:
StoopidUserName wrote:
Great thread! So…you gonna restore it?
I think it will cost more than I would likely get in resale value. Plus (including this frame and the Pug rebuild) I am currently at N= M + 3. Where N is number of bikes owned, and M is the number the Mrs knows about.

I love the evolution from this ‘not quite a no’ over the next week…

Cracking thread – nice progress. Looking good.

November 23, 2018 at 7:48 am #931229
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HoarseMann

Nice job, looks great!
Nice job, looks great!

November 22, 2018 at 12:30 pm #931227
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Anonymous

I really love restoring bikes

I really love restoring bikes!

I must resist the temptation, my loft already has a gaggle of bikes that I’ve finished and now sit up there doing nothing!

I want to mount the Gazelle with full 9 speed Campy Record on the lounge wall, but then why does that take precedence over the fully restored custom 70’s track frame with full NJS kit, or even the Pace RC200 (although, it’s not a looker like the track bike).

Just so you know, the loft is fully insulated and the bikes all hang up there nicely, not just chucked in!

November 22, 2018 at 11:32 am #931225
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CygnusX1
UPDATE WITH PIC:

UPDATE WITH PIC:

Meet Walter (Raleigh)… and breakdown of spend

House clearance shop (£15)
- grotty looking vintage Raleigh frameset, cranks, (knackered) calipers, stem and bars, plus a Mavic OpenPro rim on a Project EX flip-flop hub inc. Gatorskin tyre — £15 the lot
Fleabay (£20)
- Chrome brake levers — £12 inc PP
- Vintage raleigh chrome pump (not yet arrived) –£5+3PP
LBS #1 (£17)
- New chrome saddle clamp — £3.50
- Pair cable guide clips (vintage) — £1
- Vintage 700c wheel (Van Schothorst chrome rim on AOS 90mm OLN hub) inc. sidewall tyre — £7.50
- Sacrificial vintage brake caliper (I just needed the spring) — £5
LBS #2 (£20)
- Raleigh brake cable + housing — £5
- SRAM PC-1 Nickel chain — £15 <coughs> No wonder people buy online!
My Parts Bin (FREE)
- 4x part worn traditional brake shoes
- Pre-stretched front brake cable & housing (was a rear cable)
- Used saddle
- Used bar tape
Total build cost (so far!) = £77 excluding lubes, grease, cleaning/polishing products

Still to do
1. Final adjustments to brake cables
2. Replace bar tape, I’m thinking Brookes ‘”honey” leather.
3. Replace saddle, probably with the tan Charge Spoon, unless I get lucky and stumble on an old Brookes somewhere
4. Attach pump when it arrives (after a good polish)
5. Change tyres so they match
6. Future upgrade to 26″ 3-speed Sturmey Archer wheelset? (about £80 new including lever, cables etc on fleabay)
November 12, 2018 at 7:29 pm #931223
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HoarseMann

Something along these lines
Something along these lines perhaps…

https://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/blogs/single-speed-bike-gallery/16388628-ssc-build-triumph-palm-beach-rebuild

Good luck with it. Be interesting to know whether you managed to get the 700c wheels to line up with the brake calipers.

November 12, 2018 at 6:55 pm #931221
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CygnusX1

HoarseMann wrote:
Probably not worth restoring unless you are looking for a project. Getting the right size rims will be the tricky bit. But could make a good singlespeed hack bike.

That’s my current plan – single/fixie using stuff in the garage.

I’ve a Mavic Open Pro rim built onto a Project EX flip/flop hub which dropped in with a little bit of persuasion. I also have an unbranded front wheel that I can use, but it’s 100mm OLN wheras the front fork spacing is 90mm so I will have to gently force them open a little bit more (using a threaded bar and a couple of nuts).

I have a set of Raleigh branded Weinmann centre pull (Vainquer 999) calipers from the 70s knocking around, plus some Weinmann levers suitable for straight/riser bars. Not sure If I will go straight or drops yet.

The challenge will be whether the brakes and rims line up – the frame was built for an imperial wheel size, not 700c.

November 12, 2018 at 3:08 pm #931219
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HoarseMann

CygnusX1 wrote:
[quote=HoarseMann]Looks almost identical to my 1950’s Triumph Palm Beach. I think you are right about the pedals being replaced at a later date. I spotted the same style of pedals on a bike in this 70’s brochure. Check out the ‘Grand Prix’ on page 4… http://vue.usc.edu/images/Raleigh-Catalog-1969.pdf%5B/quote%5D

What year is your Triumph? Raleigh bought Triumph cycles in 1954 and moved production from Coventry to Nottingham so its possible they share a lot of common DNA.

Yes, those look like the pedals I have.

I think it’s 1954 (from the stamp on the sturmey hub), so that would explain the similarities. It’s even got the same grease port on the bottom bracket. Mine was a skip find, paintwork was awful but bike was complete. Got someone to blast & respray it and he’s like, are you sure? It’ll be £70 and it’s nowt special. Bike served me well for years and was invisible to bike thieves at the time as all they wanted were mountain bikes.

Probably not worth restoring unless you are looking for a project. Getting the right size rims will be the tricky bit. But could make a good singlespeed hack bike.

November 12, 2018 at 1:35 pm #931217
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CygnusX1

… and after a little bit of

… and after a little bit of elbow grease and polish…

November 12, 2018 at 1:34 pm #931215
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CygnusX1

Sidepull brake – partially

Sidepull brake – partially disassembled:

November 12, 2018 at 1:29 pm #931213
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CygnusX1

Little cover on the bottom

Little cover on the bottom bracket for oiling the the crank:

November 12, 2018 at 1:22 pm #931211
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CygnusX1

Pin on fork for sporsts

Pin on fork for sporsts headlamp:

November 12, 2018 at 1:20 pm #931209
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CygnusX1

Braze-on by the bottom

Braze-on by the bottom bracket (for chain guard?):
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