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Probably not this, but worth
Probably not this, but worth checking the front and rear mech cables haven’t got twisted around each other inside the frame. Unbelievably a collegue had this on a brand new high end bike.
Another thing to check is that the cable guide under the bottom bracket is bolted in the right place. On my bike there were two mounting holes and as it was supplied new from the manufacturer, they’d bolted it in the wrong place! This meant the cable line was slightly out and gear shifts were sluggish to say the least.
Those bikes were built to
Those bikes were built to last forever, nice save!
I did a similar thing with an old Triumph Palm Beach that had been tossed in a skip. I refurbished it and used it for several years for knocking about town on. Only really stopped using it because the brakes were so bad and getting tyres and rims for 27 1/4 wheels is not easy!
If you’re just patching a
If you’re just patching a flat, then defo try and do it without removing the wheel. Working on the non-chain side for better access. Once the tube is out, you do get quite good access to it by sliding it down towards the hub.
It’s good to practise this at home in case it happens to you when you’re out on a long ride. Far quicker and less risky than getting the wheel out!
Is it a woods valve? These are a pain as you have to take the valve core out to get the stem through the hole in the rim. Plus the rubber sleeve type tend to leak when they start to perish. So if you struggle to find the hole in the tube, it could be the valve that’s gone.
Nice one! That’s a lot better
Nice one! That’s a lot better.
I feel credit should be given to one of the photos on that webpage too, which shows a car giving appropriate room when passing a bike in a “murder strip” cycle lane.
Mandatory intelligence tests for all Facebook users!!They used to do this (indirectly!). You had to have an email address affiliated with one of a list of 21 universities in the UK in order to create an account in the early days!
yep, maybe we could re-write
yep, maybe we could re-write the whole page for them! I especially cringe at the opening line “cycling on the road can be dangerous”, how about “driving on the road can be dangerous, especially in urban areas and around vulnerable road users”.
They’ve added the minimum
They’ve added the minimum advised distances, but not changed that troublesome last paragraph. Maybe they could cut-and-paste this:
You could receive points and a fine for failing to observe minimum passing distances when overtaking cyclists. Many cyclists ride with cameras to capture evidence of inconsiderate and careless driving. If you were found at fault for knocking a cyclist off their bike, injuring them or worse, you could get a lengthy driving ban or a custodial sentence.
I wonder what the chances of
I wonder what the chances of Marty Spalding passing a mandatory highway code test are?
Ah, if it’s an issue with
Ah, if it’s an issue with Garmin Express, it’s worth just checking in Settings>Security&Privacy, that the app has access enabled to removable drives…
hmm, just checked on my mac
hmm, just checked on my mac and my Garmin Edge is showing up. Can you see it in finder like this:?
Yes, I think it’s more about
Yes, I think it’s more about the defined distances, which weren’t a thing back then. But even so, I did manage to get someone points and a fine for close passing without knocking me off! (was not easy though).
The ‘as a car’ bit has always been a bit vague, but I had a new one in that chat the other day, when the van driver had recalled it said ‘as I can’.
There’s me saying ‘you need to give me as much room as a car’, to which he replies ‘as much room as I can, that’s what it says in the highway code, not as a car, as I can, you’re not as wide as a car, you’re a bike!’.
Thanks for sharing this. I’m
Thanks for sharing this. I’m glad your procedure went well and you’re on the road to recovery.
hawkinspeter wrote:
Broken Ultegra crank? Can’t think where I’ve heard of that beforeWith what we know now, he should have gone with 105 for the cranks!
Interesting comment from Rendel too. I can see how this would be the case. I once had a tour of an F1 team manufacturing facility. They were designing some parts to only last the length of the race. If they lasted longer, they were clearly too robust and there was some weight to be saved. I don’t think Dura-Ace is engineered quite like that, but there’s definately a weight/longevity trade off.
. i’m a bit worried i may have lost all our family photos on the one that’s knackered… and there are hundreds. Agggghhh.go to http://www.icloud.com and sign in with your apple id
hopefully, if your ipad was backing up to icloud, everything will be there.
I wouldn’t buy a DURA-ACE cassette period. If you’re not racing at a high level, you’re not the target market.and even if you are racing it might not be the best choice. Mark Beaumont went for Ultegra on his round-the-world ride, as he found it gave him better durability than Dura-Ace.
