Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Just seen this: https://www
Just seen this: https://www.bipartisanalliance.com/2019/10/we-identified-walkability-of-city-how.html
Abstract: Intergenerational upward economic mobility—the opportunity for children from poorer households to pull themselves up the economic ladder in adulthood—is a hallmark of a just society. In the United States, there are large regional differences in upward social mobility. The present research examined why it is easier to get ahead in some cities and harder in others. We identified the “walkability” of a city, how easy it is to get things done without a car, as a key factor in determining the upward social mobility of its residents. We 1st identified the relationship between walkability and upward mobility using tax data from approximately 10 million Americans born between 1980 and 1982. We found that this relationship is linked to both economic and psychological factors. Using data from the American Community Survey from over 3.66 million Americans, we showed that residents of walkable cities are less reliant on car ownership for employment and wages, significantly reducing 1 barrier to upward mobility. Additionally, in 2 studies, including 1 preregistered study (1,827 Americans; 1,466 Koreans), we found that people living in more walkable neighborhoods felt a greater sense of belonging to their communities, which is associated with actual changes in individual social class.
Trying to divert us down helmet row eh ? Pesky squirels again !I came across this interesting cycling ‘hack’ the other day: https://qz.com/1620913/the-best-cycling-hack-is-a-pool-noodle/
Another fine article HP. I kind of knew it was you posting when I read the title. Thank you for trawling internet for very interesting stuff.It is odd how we pander to the moton, and try as hard as they must, they always end up stuck in traffic.
You’re welcome. I saw it on Hacker News, so there wasn’t too much trawling required.
It’s worrying how backwards looking we are in this country, especially compared to some of the Europeans. It seems that the majority still believe that personal car ownership is the answer to our transport needs.
Does that not contradict the research into close passing from a few years back?http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/somerset/5334208.stm
(I only skimmed the article, this is the internet so I never like to wade into a discussion with all the information)
I’m sceptical of the results in that article as his results are more to do with a bloke in a wig than an actual woman cyclist.
I came across this interesting cycling ‘hack’ the other day: https://qz.com/1620913/the-best-cycling-hack-is-a-pool-noodle/
Nice. I wonder how difficult it’d be to duct tape a chisel to the end of the pool noodle? Just asking, for a friend 😉
Your friend may have better luck taking a hammer to some spark plugs and then gluing the ceramic shards (aka ninja rocks) onto the end. Lighter and more likely to break a window.
Does that not contradict the research into close passing from a few years back?http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/somerset/5334208.stm
(I only skimmed the article, this is the internet so I never like to wade into a discussion with all the information)
I’m sceptical of the results in that article as his results are more to do with a bloke in a wig than an actual woman cyclist.
I came across this interesting cycling ‘hack’ the other day: https://qz.com/1620913/the-best-cycling-hack-is-a-pool-noodle/
Ok. Got it. Question: can I go cycling with the bike as is (I had planned a good day out uphill-downhill with a friend ) or I better not. Do I damage something if I do?It doesn’t sound dangerous to me. Your rear brake may be a bit more juddery than it should be, but it’ll still stop you and you’ve got the front brake working fine as well.
Land of the Free*
Land of the Free*
*Terms and conditions may apply
Ah – maybe you’ve got a
Ah – maybe you’ve got a sticky piston? That could explain why careful adjustment of the caliper doesn’t help too much.
A quick search brings up this: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20931/hydraulic-disk-brake-piston-not-fully-retracting
Check whether your brakes use DOT fluid or mineral oil – mixing them is not a good idea and be careful about pulling the brake lever when pads and rotor are removed as that could push one or other piston out too far.
If you’re reasonably careful you should be able to do that without needing to bleed the hydraulics (not difficult, but involves having a suitable syringe etc).
Okay, sounds like your wheel
Okay, sounds like your wheel is good and solid, so I’m puzzled as to what could be moving to affect the braking. Maybe the rotor has some movement in it, though that’s unlikely if the lockring is anywhere near 40Nm.
Not bedding in disk brakes can lead to them being noisy and not having the full stopping potential, but it shouldn’t result in a periodic clunking noise.
You mentioned about the wheel moving inwards under braking with the bike off the ground – I don’t see how that can happen unless something is a bit loose.
Was there any movement at all
Was there any movement at all in the rear wheel when you where checking it out yesterday?
For the problem to resolve and then re-appear sounds to me like something is slipping/moving.
Ok, will check tonight!PS: after an online search, I discovered that what I described as “clunk..clunk..clunk” is actually a shudder of sorts (obviously associated with the clunk noise) that happens when braking hard..Do your suggestions still stand?
The noise could be just a judder, but it sounds like you have some movement of the wheel and/or rotor when braking which isn’t right. Re-aligning your caliper may help with reducing judder – the pads should be parallel with the rotor when making contact.
Yeah will do, thanks.1-When you talk about adjusting the calipers you refer simply to tightening up the caliper mounting bolts, rights? No other adjustments? Like, for ex, if one brake pad is closer that the other to the rotor you fix the issue by readjusting the mounting bolts?
2-Rode at luchtime. Wheel spins as well as this morning but clunk clunk is back and when I lift the wheel and squeeze the brake lever the rotor/wheel shifts a touch inward again.
3-If the mechanic fixed it, why do you think the issue is back after only about 500km?
- Yes, just the 2 mounting bolts. Ideally, the pads should self-adjust so a few pumps of the brake lever should centre the pads over the rotor. It is possible for the pistons (i.e. the bits pushing the brake pads) to get stuck so they don’t retract properly. If that happens, I’d remove the brake pads (there’s just one retaining bolt to undo) and use a plastic tyre lever to push the stuck piston back in a bit (plastic is advisable so that you don’t damage the pistons).
- I reckon you’ve got a slightly wobbly wheel there
- See answer 2
Ok. Tonight the thru-axle goes out. I’m slightly worried: had a Giant MTB for over 20years. Did 105k km on it and all kinds of fidgeting and adjusting etc. This being a spanking new one I feel like I need to use white gloves on it…don’t know if I’m explaining myself….
Once you get used to it, you’ll be fine.
Removing the thru-axle and popping the rear wheel out takes less than a minute – I do it most times that I wash my bike.
Adjusting the calipers can be fiddly to get it JUST right, but if you get it wrong you just loosen the bolts and try again.
Once they’re set up correctly they can be left alone for ages.
(When fitting your rear wheel, try not to ram the rotor into the frame – speaking from experience, it leaves a nasty gash on brand new carbon fibre frames)
It shouldn’t make any
It shouldn’t make any difference if the back wheel is on the ground or not. However, the crucial point is that there shouldn’t be any movement in a back wheel (except for the obvious rotation), whereas I suspect that you do have some play in your rear wheel.
When you get a chance, remove the thru-axle, have a look at it and then re-assemble and see if the rear wheel has any play in it.
You probably won’t need to bend the rotor – that’s only required if something has made it go out of true or it’s quite old. I’ve never needed to do mine.
The black lines being on each of the rotor fins sounds like something is causing that, but I can’t think what.
Re-adjusting the position of
Re-adjusting the position of the caliper is an easy enough task and is worth knowing how to do.
Loosen the two hex bolts that hold the caliper to the frame so that there’s some lateral movement of the caliper. Then there’s two methods that can be used:
- Squeeze the brake lever so that the caliper will centre itself over the rotor and tighten up the caliper mounting bolts to keep it in place. (This is what the mechanic did)
- Eyeball the gap between the rotor and the brake pads. A light background makes this easier, so hold some white paper the other side if it helps. Move the caliper so there’s the same gap either side of the rotor (usually it’s only about 1mm or so) and then tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
I’ve found it can be tricky if when tightening the caliper bolts, it shifts the position of the caliper, so watch out for that happening. Once you’re happy with the position make sure you tighten the caliper bolts up to the recommended torque (from memory it’s probably around 5Nm).
I prefer eyeballing the rotor as it also highlights any problems if the rotor is bent when you spin the wheel.
Once the caliper is in the right place, it shouldn’t need re-adjusting often – maybe after replacing pads or a rotor but otherwise the thru-axle should keep everything firmly in place.
