Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
emjay49 wrote:
Lost mine as well. Never really bothered to replace them as the plate just clicked back in.Yeah, the nameplate doesn’t seem to actually need the screw, but to me it’s more about annoyance than anything else. At least with hex head screws, I can think that I’m tarting up my bike even though the screw’s totally hidden.
Thanks. I just found a pack of 10 with hex heads for £1.35 (including delivery) on eBay.
It’s an M3 x 4mm countersunk bolt. Head diam is 4mm for slotted (why?!?) screwdriversNice one – thanks very much.
I ride mine through the
I ride mine through the winter and haven’t seen any winter related issues. I had a battery suddenly die, but that was just a faulty unit rather than weather related (got a refund from CRC eventually).
But then there is always moving the head slightly.Pffft! Who has time for that these days?
Sorry – your post looked a bit like some posts we get from chinese manufacturers trying to get free advertising, so a bunch of us thought it was spam.Never heard of XYZ, so can’t give any feedback. If you’re going to be spending time building your own wheels, then I’d recommend going for a known quality rim. Sapim is a good choice for spokes, though it’s trickier to build with aero spokes as you need to stop the blades from twisting as you tighten/true the wheel. A good tip is to dip each spoke end into a bit of grease to prevent the nipple from sticking to the spoke end so much.
Thanks a lot for the advices.
There’s no problem, I know that my english isn’t so good an it’s simple to fall in some misunderstanding.
I’m tempted to adopt an old wheelbuilder’s process using boiled linseed oil to lube the thread of nipples and spokes.
What do you think about?I’ve only used white lithium grease myself, so I can’t advise on linseed oil. I used lithium grease as I had a small pot around and it’s designed for metal on metal – should prevent the nipples seizing and causing problems when you want to re-true the wheel.
Personally, I haven’t bothered building wheels for a few years – nowadays I find it easier to buy a pre-made wheel as there seems to be more choice in pre-built wheels rather than the components (e.g. rims).
Your english is pretty good, by the way.
Sorry – your post looked a
Sorry – your post looked a bit like some posts we get from chinese manufacturers trying to get free advertising, so a bunch of us thought it was spam.
Never heard of XYZ, so can’t give any feedback. If you’re going to be spending time building your own wheels, then I’d recommend going for a known quality rim. Sapim is a good choice for spokes, though it’s trickier to build with aero spokes as you need to stop the blades from twisting as you tighten/true the wheel. A good tip is to dip each spoke end into a bit of grease to prevent the nipple from sticking to the spoke end so much.
Another vote for Prime wheels
Another vote for Prime wheels.
This set might suit your budget: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-baroudeur-se-road-disc-wheelset/
Rats in cars?
Rats in cars?
Whatever next?
True, true.Only destroys his opponent if he actually hits them.
OT – but did you see this one, peter? https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-merseyside-50057649
I hadn’t – that’s pretty awesome.
By the way, OnePunchMan is powerless against ordinary animals (from https://sundaycomicsdebt.blogspot.com/2015/07/squirrel-girl-vs-one-punch-man.html):
vonhelmet wrote:
Well, sure, and to be honest the way I ride/drive it’s pretty much mirror mirror mirror mirror mirror mirror mirror mirror mirror…”Mirror” signal manoeuvre, lane or no lane.Shouldn’t that be “mirror”, signal, “mirror”, manoeuvre? Once glance to see if there’s room and a second glance to check there’s still room (also known as “the life-saver”).
I don’t think there’s any issue with cyclists crossing solid white lines – I’d treat a cycle lane like any other part of the road.
Yeah, it’s worrying how many drivers sit at junctions indicating to pull out, and as a space develops, they pull out with doing that final check that it’s still clear to do so (and no pesky bike has gone up their inside/outside).
Ranges from easy to easier, except when it’s nearly impossible. Depending on the style of bolt used, may need a chainring nut spanner (if one side has two flat notches instead of a hex head), and some cranks have to be pulled to swap the rings, though many do not. The nearly impossible comes into play if they’re riveted on, which is usually only seen on very low-cost cranksets.Thanks for the tip! Changing a chain and cassette are currently within my bike maintenance skillset – how easy is it to replace worn chainrings?
I’d be replacing them on this bike:
https://www.evanscycles.com/cannondale-caad-optimo-105-disc-2017-road-bike-EV280310
My hope was that I’d be able to undo some screws, pop the old chainring over the cranks and then do the reverse with the new ring(s).
You should be fine with that – looks like it’s a FSA chainset which are easy to work on.
A far more important question
A far more important question is who would win in a battle between Squirrel Girl and SaitaMan?
Thanks.
Thanks.
My take on this is that the parents are probably factoring in the aggressiveness of some motorists and the traffic experts are just seeing cars/trucks etc.
However, it could just as easily be explained by the parents responding to the MSM agenda of portraying cycling as a dangerous activity.