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imajez.
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June 16, 2015 at 12:04 pm #24256
joemmo
I’m a bit fed up of swapping tyres over on my road/cx bike so am looking at a second pair of wheels at the sub £200 mark – preferably low as possible. This really is a top limit, I know I can spend a bit more and get some better wheels ( I have some Hope / Archetype handbuilts) but these will be just for commuting, mainly. Weight is not a major factor, which is just as well.
So far, I’ve found the Shimano RX05 at £99, the Mavic Aksium disc at £130 and the Shimano RX31 on offer at £180. Is there anything else worth looking at in this limited range? RX05s are pretty tempting, I’m not afraid of cup and cone and bearings so how bad could they be?
cheers
Joe -
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antigee
i wouldn’t be afraid of cup
i wouldn’t be afraid of cup and cone bearings just make sure plenty of grease in them and once a year replace the balls for just a few quid – sealed cartridge bearings are a pain to change in my opinion and not always sealed!
fukawitribe
Here’s a typically sensible
Here’s a typically sensible take from SheldonAlthough you can use practically any tire/rim combination that shares the same bead seat diameter, it is unwise to use widely disparate sizes.
If you use a very narrow tire on a wide rim, you risk pinch flats and rim damage from road hazards.
If you use a very wide tire on a narrow rim, you risk sidewall or rim failure. This combination causes very sloppy handling at low speeds. Unfortunately, current mountain-bike fashion pushes the edge of this. In the interest of weight saving, most current mountain bikes have excessively narrow rims. Such narrow rims work very poorly with wide tires, unless the tires are overinflated…but that defeats the purpose of wide tires, and puts undue stress on the rim sidewalls.
Followed by a table with recommended rim/tyre widths, itself followed by the equally sensible foot-note
Note: This chart may err a bit on the side of caution. Many cyclists exceed the recommended widths with no problem.
Erring on the side of caution, that table gives the following minimum recommended tyre size for a given rim
622-17 -> 25mm
622-19 -> 28mm
622-25 -> 44mm..which, for the smaller sizes at least, is in line with what Mavic were saying they’d actually tested. Food for thought ?
fukawitribe
BBB wrote:I don’t really get
BBB wrote:I don’t really get it.Bead security issue? Plenty of people run 1″ ish slicks on 26″ rims at 100PSI and they are still alive.
The width of mtb rims isn’t an issue but an ADVANTAGE. Nowadays it’s normal to run 23mm rubber on 25mm rims so logically +25mm tyres will spread better on wider rims.
Currently I run Conti Grand Prix 28mm mtb slicks (exactly the same as their 700C cousins) on 28mm Stans rims. They stretch to around 31-32mm and they handle beautifully.
The max pressure warnings on mtb rims are about wide mtb tyres run tubeless. It’s only to prevent some fools to put 60PSI in their 2.35″ tyres;-) You can still run narrower tyres at high pressure without an issue.It looks like anything with a MTB label on it is evil in a road cycling world;-)
Not at all – it’s just that it seems that there is some feedback to suggest that it may not be the best mix and, potentially, dangerous. I run wide road rims and narrow and wide tyres and enjoy the benefits – but i’m also willing to listen to advice from others who have thought about it, and tested it, more than me. Again, i’ve done – and do – things that may not be recommended but it’s a personal choice and judgement based on the rims, tyres and where i’m going to be riding (hence pressure). I’m not comfortable with telling someone else to try something that is explicitly advised against by those that may have much more of a clue than me. 23mm tyres on 25mm rims is hardly normal either.
Back to why… my take would be that given the way the a bead hooks into a rim I think it’s quite clear that the relationship between the width of the rim and tyre will dictate how much the tyre will need deform to adopt a certain shape.
If you have a narrow rim and a wide tyre the issue is normally the light-bulb stress (double curvature) and pinch flats. If it’s a very wide rim and a narrower tyre then to engage the bead in the hook securely then i’d imagine it’s the extra strain in the side-walls.. think about the angle of the bead/sidewall and the rim hook – doubly so with tubeless (which I use), you really want the two the match more the higher the pressure.
Anyway, not matter what you and I might think, maybe have a look at what people are saying why it’s not ideal to go to far either way with fat tyre/narrow rim or vice versa.
BBB
P.S. Many budget MTB wheels
P.S. Many budget MTB wheels come with 25mm wide rims anyway. Put some 28mm or wider tyres on and it’ll make a perfect commuter setup.BBB
I don’t really get it.
Bead
I don’t really get it.Bead security issue? Plenty of people run 1″ ish slicks on 26″ rims at 100PSI and they are still alive.
The width of mtb rims isn’t an issue but an ADVANTAGE. Nowadays it’s normal to run 23mm rubber on 25mm rims so logically +25mm tyres will spread better on wider rims.
Currently I run Conti Grand Prix 28mm mtb slicks (exactly the same as their 700C cousins) on 28mm Stans rims. They stretch to around 31-32mm and they handle beautifully.
The max pressure warnings on mtb rims are about wide mtb tyres run tubeless. It’s only to prevent some fools to put 60PSI in their 2.35″ tyres;-) You can still run narrower tyres at high pressure without an issue.It looks like anything with a MTB label on it is evil in a road cycling world;-)
fukawitribe
BBB wrote:There is no reason
BBB wrote:There is no reason why not.
25mm tyres will easily go on 25 or even 26mm rims. Pressure isn’t an issue either when using with tubes.
I managed to put 28mm Schwalbe One tubeless tyres on 28mm Superstar MTB rims. The tyres stretched to wonderful 30-32mmThey can fit, and they may be alright but it’s not recommended for bead security reasons and ride quality, e.g. from the road.cc review of the Mavic All Road
17mm is not as wide as some, so why haven’t Mavic gone wider? It’s all to do with ISO norms. ISO 5775 defines the recommended tyre widths for different widths of rim, based on the security of the bead on the rim at a certain trye pressure: too narrow a tyre, or too wide, and the bead may not seat properly leading to a danger of the tyre blowing off the rim. Which would be bad. Mavic have been doing their own testing too, and they’re pretty confident ISO’s numbers are good. Look down the table and you’ll see that 17mm is the widest rim that will accommodate a 25mm tyre; any wider and 28mm is the minimum recommended width.
or the CTC discussion of rim/tyre widths
Another reason not to exceed the 2.2 limit on road is that a more bulbous tyre can deflect sideways with a noticeable effect on control and roadholding. Conversely, fitting a tyre of less than 1.4 times the rim section will result in a harsh ride and more rolling drag than a larger tyre at the same pressure.
I’ve used various non-recommended combinations and i’m still here (currently) but that is my choice and it is definitely not something i’d recommend to anyone else. That said, I really like your tyre choice 🙂
joemmo
I looked into 29er wheels
I looked into 29er wheels before and as well as the width issue, not all rims are rated to road tyre pressures so it’s a bit of a minefield.BBB
There is no reason why not.
There is no reason why not.
25mm tyres will easily go on 25 or even 26mm rims. Pressure isn’t an issue either when using with tubes.
I managed to put 28mm Schwalbe One tubeless tyres on 28mm Superstar MTB rims. The tyres stretched to wonderful 30-32mm
fukawitribe
BBB wrote:I can’t recommend
BBB wrote:I can’t recommend any particular model as I never use factory wheels but look also at 29er MTB wheels. Many of them will have 25-26mm wide rims so no problems with using 25mm or 28mm or wider tyres. Weight will be similar.I’d be really careful trying to use MTB rims with road tyres that narrow, especially the 25mm.
BBB
I can’t recommend any
I can’t recommend any particular model as I never use factory wheels but look also at 29er MTB wheels. Many of them will have 25-26mm wide rims so no problems with using 25mm or 28mm or wider tyres. Weight will be similar.joemmo
cheers for the suggestions –
cheers for the suggestions – my limit is £200 so the Hunt and the DT swiss are over that unfortunately. Also not mad keen on alloy nipples for a utility wheel. The Mavics look OK and they are adaptable for thru-axle so at least have some forward compatibility built in., could give them a try.CXR94Di2
Hunt wheelset £350
Hunt wheelset £350southseabythesea
My Mavic Aksium discs are
My Mavic Aksium discs are proving good for both road and cross. I still swap the tyres over which is a pain as you say.UglyBug
DT Swiss R24 DB. They
DT Swiss R24 DB. They reviewed well recently on road.cc. I have the non-disc version and they’re nice enough wheels. Especially running tubeless with Schwalbe Ones. -
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