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6 comments
I wouldn't have thought QR tightness would affect disc alignment? I know it can affect bearing preload but that's the difference between QR completely loose and QR completely closed, not a microscopic difference between closed and slightly more closed.
I guess it's a good general point either way though, I always used the Shimano 'starts to feel tight at 90 degrees' method...
And I think through axles only help if you're prone to tightening the QR with the wheel squint in the dropouts (I've seen it done and think I've been guilty of it myself). It's impossible to fit a through axle system 'squint'. If the wheels are different hubs/discs etc. then you might still need to re-align, as others said above.
One thing to remember with qr disc wheels is that if you do up the qr slightly tighter than it originally was you will effectivley pull the fork leg in a very small amount and can make the disc rub slightly
i always make a note of how many times i have to rotate the qr to remove the wheel then do it back up the same amount and get no disc rub
Agree with the above comments - the pad adjustment is due to your wheel-disc combination have a small offset difference. I would suggest this order of tackling (cheapest to most expensive) -
Also bear in mind wear might mean one set of discs are thinner (but this a is a secondary issue compared to offset)
It will be more to do with manufacturing dimensions of the hub and rotor rather than thru axle or not. The same brand of wheel would probably be fine, but even then there could be a different tolerance build up.
Do you have hydraulic brakes. I have two sets of wheels and find I can swap between the two with no adjustment. All I do is pull on the brakes to align the pistons
It probably won't make a difference when swapping wheels unless they're the same wheels (hubs & rotors, really) with different tyres. But you might get lucky. It usually spells the end for adjusting pads and calipers for any other reason.