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9 comments
I've got a Vero chainset on my hack bike mated to Shimano components and have never had a problem in the 4 years its been in use.
Sounds like your drivetrain just needs setting up properly.As someone mentioned you will get chain rub if the chain becomes crossed.
If you select the big chainring - big sprocket combination on a a triple chainset then you'll likely get rubbing on the front mech simply due to the angle of the chain (the same can happen with small ring & smallest rear cog).
By low gears are you meaning the big ones at the back?
Are the gears at the front skipping when in both the big and small chainring?
It was the big gears at the back, the front skipping has stopped but the rubbing is still continuing. It was happening in the smallest and largest front gears but the middle seems ok. The rubbing is happening in the same places.
Thank you for all the comments, I think I'll take it back to the original shop and get them to look at it. SammyG I should clarify that it was the front skipping in low rear gears. I was still getting some rubbing on my ride in this morning but I'm not sure if this is the derailleur rubbing or something in the pedals as it only happens at certain points in the pedalling.
If the chain is skipping at the rear I would not worry about bottom bracket width at the front, first properly adjust your rear derailleur:
Loosen bolt holding your gear cable
Set high and low limits
Set B adjustment
Turn your barrell adjuster all the way to the right (righty tighty)
Ensure you are in your lowest (hardest) rear gear with your shifter and then pull your cable tight and retighten the bolt.
Check shifting, shift into a middle sprocket and then use your barrell adjuster to ensure that your uppermost jockey wheel is running directly below the sprocket.
That should eliminate rear skipping.
Agree with the above comments about filing teeth.
However if the BB is a touch long or installed off centre then it maybe the cause of your problems. I doubt the bb is too long. Is the BB an X-type ie the cups/bearings are external or the older internal type. It maybe that there are spacers incorrectly fitted on the Xtype. Or the cartridge has been been fitted none central. Both could push the drive side out.
Mind you if the first shop has failed to identify or correct the problem, I wouldn't have much faith in them.
Its natural for it to need adjusting after a couple of weeks as cables stretch a little and can knock the gearing off slightly.
Filing the ends of the teeth....Return the bike and NEVER go near that guy again, get your money back and RUN.
You can replace parts until the cows come home, but if you don't know how to do it and rely on this guy at the bike shop, your bike is going to be a MESS.
I think you should take it somewhere else, get them to have a look at it and see what they say before doing anything else.
Filing the teeth on a virtually new chainset is not going to help! Don't let that clown near your bike again.
There shouldn't be a compatibility issue between an FSA chainset and Shimano shifters etc.
I would take it back to the shop you bought it from, tell them that the gears haven't been right from the start and it's getting worse. You shouldn't really have to pay extra to get it working properly.