- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
Add new comment
15 comments
11-32 will definitely work - search for an HG-41, usually under £20. You'll need a new chain too - about £15. Chains are speed-specific, so you need an 8sp/9sp chain.
Tools wise you'll need a chain whip and cassette tool and chain tool. It's a relatively easy job as tolerances on 8sp are such that you probably won't need to reindex the gears.
Steps:
1. Break old chain using chain tool
2. Remove rear wheel
3. Remove cassette using cassette tool and chain whip. The cassette locking is usually done up bastard tight but take plenty of abuse/strong words. Think car wheelnut tight.
4. Clean and lightly grease the freehub body once the cassette is off
5. Slide new cassette on - it's keyed so will only go on one way
6. Tighten cassette lockring - you'll hear it make grinding noises as you do this, don't worry. Torque setting will be on the lockring. Tighter the better (within tolerances) as it will prevent freehub wear
7. Install rear wheel.
8. Size chain. Place it on the big ring at the front and rear but don't run it through the derailleur. Plenty of guides online on how to do this, as always Calvin from Park Tools is your man.
9. Once sized thread the chain through the derailleur. It does round the front of the top pulley and round the back of the bottom pulley. Make sure you also thread it rearward of the chain retention tab on the jockey cage halfway down between the pulleys.
10. Install chain pin using chain tool, or quicklink if you prefer. There's a bit of an art to getting the chain pin right, quicklinks are more foolproof.
11. All done, check it shifts OK, particularly when the chain is on the big ring at the back as the derailleur B-screw might need winding in to give enough clearance. If the indexing is off all it will take is small moves on the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur. Quarter or at most a half turn at a time.
9sp is narrower and not compatible with 8sp drivetrains. Look for a 7sp/8sp chain, I'd recommend KMC Z8 (ebay seller Hopkinson Cycles) or X8. Make sure the quick-link is included - it will be in the one I've linked to.
Videos are a great help. Park Tool (chain sizing article), GCN and Jim the mechanic on David Arthur's youtube channel are good - Jim did a chain video a few weeks ago, I think he mentions sizing the chain in that video.
I hope my memory is correct: if you add teeth on the cassette the simplest way is to add half that number of pins to the chain. If your new cassette has 7 more teeth then you need 4 extra pins on the chain. Someone please correct me if that is wrong.
Almost, but not quite. In essence, yes, you want a 7/8 speed chain for an 8 speed drivetrain. A 9 speed chain would probably work just fine, though. The other way around - running an 8 speed chain on a 9 speed cassette won't work, because the wider chain won't fit properly between the sprockets.
In terms of advice though, I would never suggest someone buys the wrong sized chain. As you say, 7/8 speed is the Johnny, let's not confuse the issue
Ta all, facepalm on my part. It's been a while since I've fitted/run anything other than 9/10/11sp and I mixed up 7/8 with 8/9
According to Shimano the CLARIS Short Cage 8-speed Rear Derailleur has a low sprocket max of 32t and the medium cage will take 34t but those are the latest models so yours could be different.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/claris-r2000/RD-R2000-S...
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/claris-r2000/RD-R2000-G...
I also found this to work out the total drivetrain capacity:
Subtract the number of teeth on the smallest chainring from the number of teeth on the largest chainring.
50-34= 16.
Subtract the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the biggest cassette cog
32-11=21.
Now add the result of step 1 (crankset capacity) to the result of step 2 (derailleur capacity).
16+21=37.
You end up with a total drivetrain capacity of 37 for a 50/34 crankset with a 11/32 cassette.
Shimano says the max capacity is 37t for the short cage and 43t for the medium but If your Mum's crank has different size sprockets then you'll have to do the sums yourself.
If you're fitting a new chain it looks like a 11-32t will just fit if she has a short cage and comfortably fit a medium cage but if you aren't 100% sure then i'd go for a 11-28 to be on the safe side.
On another point i've been unlucky with cheap Shimano cassettes from ebay and amazon in the last couple of years to the point where I became convinced they were either fakes or Shimano QC has gone downhill. Now I only buy HG41 or better from online bike stores.
Found this on a review website. They seem to think it would be OK.
"Because Shimano Claris is an eight-speed system (i.e. there are eight sprockets on the cassette) there are always going to be bigger jumps between gears, compared to the nine-speed Shimano Sora, 10-speed Shimano Tiagra, and 11-speed 105, Ultegra, and Dura-Ace groupsets. This potential problem is compounded by the fact that Claris comes as standard with a medium cage derailleur, which means that you can fit a 32-tooth rear sprocket, spreading the gear range wider."
I put 11-32 on my Sora and it works fine.
Ahh brilliant so that's a huge jump from 11-25 but you're suggesting that due to it being an 8 speed derailleur I should be able to go upto 11-32. Was that 11-32 still an 8 speed or did you change to 9 speed?
I'd normally advocate for just changing bike with better kit but she's just split from my Dad so doesn't really have the money to change bikes, but loves cycling - the hills are just hard work with a small largest cog!
My Sora is 9 speed already but I've done the same thing on a Tourney 7 speed and it worked on that. I am a slow plodder and needed the lower gearing for hills, I don't worry about larger gaps in the gearing.
Keep an eye on ebay for rear cassettes. They come up less often now but if you are lucky you can save a bit.
You will need a cain whip and special tool to remove the old cassette. You should also check the chain for wear as you can get jumping gears with a worn chain and new cassette.
Brilliant thank you, it doesn't seem like the cassettes are expensive for what I'm going to need but yes pairing a new cassette to worn chain and chainset rings could be fun.
I have a toolset from CRC that has the chain whip and extractor so I should be good, thank you.
watch this space I suppose!!
You should be fine with any SRAM or Shimano 8 speed cassette including the MTB ranges.
this should do the trick.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-acera-hg41-8-speed-mt...
That's absolutely brilliant thank you, what a great community this is.
I assume because of the larger cog I might just need to do adjustment to keep the small gap between mech and cassette but I'll get that ordered I think!
You might need to adjust the B screw. I don't have experience of the Claris but there will be a small screw that sets how low the derailleur sits. This can be needed to clear the new largest sprocket. And you may need a longer chain but worth trying without.
This should be an easy upgrade, and a 32 will make an enormous difference.
Yep, just wind the B-screw in as far as it will go. Do this with pressure off the derailleur as you're less likely to strip the screw or bore a hole in your hanger. Just rotate the derailleur backwards with one hand which will move it away from the lip on the hanger.
Whilst you should fit a new chain, try the original one first after fitting the cassette as it may be long enough already. If it is, just make the new one the same length!