Tyre change

Easy, because it's only in the last 10 years that running lower pressure has been a thing on road bikes. Before then 23mm with at least 100psi was considered the correct thing.

You will still find plenty of people who don't read up on cycling stuff will not have changed their thinking. They are also encouraged by sidewall printing which quotes a maximum pressure which, like speed limits, people often treat as targets.

Too many nuts !

Same ...sort of 60 /65 front and 65/70 rear seems to be my sweet spot on 28s.

Agree. My 4000's had worn out so changed to the 5000's I had bought last year. I sweated more getting them on than I would if I'd spent an hour on the turbo - they were horrible to put on.

I found the 5000s tight - it helps if you ensure the tyre bead inside the rim is in the centre of the rim where the diameter is smaller

I found my pzeros much harder to fit.
I hang mine in front of a fire for a few mins, my theory is it gives them a bit of stretch

Schwalbe levers are the key to a (happier) fitting experience. Pin the bead in with two levers (at about the five to one position on the clock face) use the third to lift it over the rim bit by bit. As each bit goes in slide the pinning levers along the hook.

I was pleased and surprised to get them (5000TLs) on my Giant rims without levers and even more surprised to get them inflate without sealant with just a track pump.

As others have said, there is a trick to getting any tyre on, forcing the bead into the rim well, and then, holding the tyre against your stomach, supported with your knees, push as much slack as you can towards the rim furthest away from you. Repeat this, a few mm of movement makes a massive difference.

The critical point is always when there is about 15-20cm of tyre remaining, working each end over the rim. If you can get it down to between 5-10cm it then will pop over by hand. I've got some Schwalbe soapy stuff that came with a set of Pro Ones that I have used to help, but usually don't bother. I try to avoid tyre levers on tubeless in case you dent the bead.

Hey, when using the calculator, it gives me roughly what I have found works for my 2.1s on my 26 inch bikes.

Gets a nod from me.

ktache wrote:

Hey, when using the calculator, it gives me roughly what I have found works for my 2.1s on my 26 inch bikes.

Gets a nod from me.

And a nod from me too. Running 32mm Conti GP5000 TL's front and rear, at about 55 and 60psi, which is pretty close to the recommendation.

Shame the calculator doesn't go down to 25mm tyres which unfortunately is the widest that will fit on my very retro (2015) road bike...

For 700x25 I use rider weight (in kg) in the front tyre, adding 5-10 psi for the rear.

But that should be a starting point - you may prefer to run your tyres softer / firmer than those values.

Have to agree. Not sure what Conti are on with their web site magic pressure number with no explanation.

Mind you I was equally baffled by Hunt wheels who on their All Road 30 claim it is good for 100psi with 28s, but mysteriously with 30-32mm they mandate a maximum pressure of 70psi - which then drops to 50psi at 33 - baffling that a 3% change in tyre diameter needs a 25% reduction in tyre pressure. I have some 38s with a recommended pressure range of 50-75psi and Hunt are saying maximum of 45psi. They also don't say whether this is for tubed or tubeless, though they do explain why lower pressures are better.

WIth tubes, aside from feel, you do have to be conscious of how the tyre deforms on hitting a pot hole - too soft and it is welcome to the world of snake bite punctures. One of the joys of tubeless is riding fairly soft without the risk of a snake bite, in fact I tend not to worry to much about avoiding minor potholes these days aside from taking weight out of the saddle.

Similarly, been running gp5000 700x25 clinchers on deep carbon rims. At 63kg bodyweight, 70F 75R is a good balance between roadholding and speed for me ...

100psi for 700x30 sounds nuts unless you're riding a lorry instead of a bike!