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When I upgraded to 105 brakes
When I upgraded to 105 brakes, I found the standard pads worked ok but were picking up loads of bits of aluminium from the rims. I switched to Kool Stop dual compounds and they seem much kinder to the rims with more feel too.
Can’t see your post and can’t
Can’t see your post and can’t view source on this device, but I got really bad cramp on the outside edge of my soles on both feet when I tried cycling shoes.
Tried Giro spd shoes with flat pedals and suffered a bit but as soon as I tried clipless pedals, the cramp came on after less than 10 miles and I had trouble walking for a few minutes after each ride. Tried road and MTB shoes and pedal combinations and tried cleat wedges and insoles but nothing relieved it. Gave up and went back to flats and trainers.
Hope this is at least a bit relevant to your post!
I ditched them due to
I ditched them due to discomfort on the outside edge of my soles (couldn’t walk for a few minutes after only 10 mile rides). Once ditched, I felt much happier as I hadn’t realised how much I’d been having my concentration diverted to timing junctions to avoid unnecessary clipping out and back in. After trying them for a few weeks, I really don’t feel that I am missing out on anything.
Still hunting for the perfect flat pedal though. Really liked the Token flats but they destroy the soles of my trainers in quick time. Trying MKS CT Lites at the moment.
First saddle sore I ever got
First saddle sore I ever got was also the first time I used chamois cream. I tried it a few times afterwards and suffered more and decided there must be something in it that my skin doesn’t like (I was using the Chapeau menthol stuff). I found Sudocrem helped clear them up.
More recently I have tried Castelli dry chamois cream and it causes no such problems 🙂
Have reset the cable.
Have reset the cable. Unclamped at derailleur and made sure shifter was clicked to highest gear. Pulled cable through, reclamped and reset the gears. Thrashed it up and down the road a bit (5ft 10 bloke on a road bike for a 9 – 10 year old 😀 ) and did some aggressive changes. All seems good but if it goes again I’ll get a new inner fitted.
Thanks all – much appreciated.
Cheers – I’ll have another
Cheers – I’ll have another look tonight 🙂
The bike has probably only
The bike has probably only done aboout 200 miles from new and I have inspected everything I can get at!
When set up, it is smooth, quiet and changes gear precisely and quickly right through the cassette. After a few miles (last ride it started at about 10 miles after adjustment) the gears start to become noisy and if not attended to, eventually starts skipping. A twist or two of the barrel adjuster at the RD end gets it back shifting smoothly again.
I haven’t had the inner cable out properly but it feels fine when the inner is given a tug – returns without any hint of sticking. I’ll try stripping it out and giving it a clean.
I have the Cero AR30 and
I have the Cero AR30 and Fulcrum Racing 3 wheel sets, and prefer the Fulcrums. Couldn’t tell you why but they just feel like they roll and ride nicer. I thought it might be tyres and so switched to 25s on both but the Fulcrums still felt better.
I used the AR30s over winter and had no problems so build seems good. Fulcrums went on when the temperatures went up.
I use wippermann connex
I use wippermann connex chains but only in the 8 and 10 speed varieties so far. I haven’t noticed any lack of lube when new. I’ve used about 4 or 5 on various bikes and all have run smoothly from the off.
My son has a junior Halfords
My son has a junior Halfords Carrera Tdf and if I were looking to do any upgrade it would be the wheels and tyres. The roughness of the bearings, the fact that the bearings were stupidly tight when delivered, and the sheer weight of the wheels, means that pretty much any pair of wheels would be an upgrade!
As he is likely to only be using it for a short while until he grows a bit, all we have done is replace the tyres and set the cones correctly so the wheels can at least spin relatively freely.
Have done some digging and it
Have done some digging and it looks like Tiagra 10 speed cassettes do not need the 1mm spacer as they are the same width as 9 speed cassettes, but all 10 speed cassettes 105 spec and above do. I could find no definitive statement on this – just going by Q and As on CRC and from Shimano exploded view docs. I’d hazard a guess that if the cassette is supplied with one, then it should be used if the cassette is being fitted to an 11 speed hub.
Well I’ve never used two spacers. Just one will suffice with no problems !Same here. I have two sets of wheels with 11 speed hubs and 10 speed cassettes and both are fitted only with the spacer provided with the wheels. I’ve bought a number of 10 speed cassettes over the last couple of years and cannot recall seeing a 1mm spacer supplied with any of them.
Does anyone know if there has been a change with Shimano 10 speed cassettes and they no longer need the 1mm spacer or do they just not supply it with the cassette anymore?
For being seen, I don’t think
For being seen, I don’t think the Cateye 300 Volt can be beaten.
I had one of the massively bright front lights off ebay and had two incidents in one day when drivers didn’t see me!
When driving I had noticed some cycle lights really catch the eye and these are ones that are always on but flash as well. I found out that the Cateye 300 Volt has this mode and purchased a couple – one for seeing (on bright mode) and one for being seen (on with flash mode).
For backlights, its worth having a couple – again one on flash and one on all the time. And having two, if one fails you are still lit.
I have found that lots of
I have found that lots of protein post exercise helps ward of DOMS I tend to go for the convenience of a protein shake when I feel the need.Hello. I have been through
Hello. I have been through the same process (not finished yet mind…) over the last few weeks.From my very limited but very recent experiences I would recommend road pedals rather than MTB pedals. I have found them easier to use (I am using Shimano SPD SL).
Practice using them in a safe place. Be careful setting them up and be wary of any aches and pains – seek professional advice from a bike fitter if you get any pains. That’s the bit I’m at now :”(
Cleats are specific to manufacturer in the main and they come with the pedals so as long as you get appropriate shoes (3 hole for road, 2 for MTB) you should be fine. There are a few variations – Speedplay spring to mind – but suitable adapters are provided with the pedals and cleats. Good luck!
