Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
June 18, 2020 at 9:41 pm in reply to: 105 5700 + FSA crankset, can I swap FSA for 105 R7000 or need to settle for 5800? #960859
Podc
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
For the benefit of the OP, I am currently using a 5800 chainset with 4700 series Tiagra and was using it with 4600 previously.
June 18, 2020 at 9:09 pm in reply to: 105 5700 + FSA crankset, can I swap FSA for 105 R7000 or need to settle for 5800? #960853Podc
I thought it was the other
I thought it was the other way round – 10 speed chainset with 11 speed chain was more prone to chain wedge.
Thanks for the advice ??
June 18, 2020 at 6:20 pm in reply to: 105 5700 + FSA crankset, can I swap FSA for 105 R7000 or need to settle for 5800? #960849Podc
An 11 speed crankset will
An 11 speed crankset will work just fine with a 10 speed set up. I am currently running similar.
Assuming your bottom bracket is 68mm BSA thread, a Hollowtech II bottom bracket bearing set should screw straight in.
Podc
Had similar issues when I
Had similar issues when I tried clipless pedals. Pain when riding was tolerable but the awful cramp on the outside edges of my feet as soon as I stopped and which lasted for a few minutes was really bad. Had a bike fit and still got the pain. Tried moving cleats around, cleat wedges and insoles.Tried some mtb shoes and pedals too just in case – still the same.
Gave up and stuck with flat pedals.
To be honest I never felt the supposed benefits of being clipped in, and I welcomed back the simplicity of flat pedals and the ease of stopping at lights and junctions.
Podc
Inline adjusters twist.
Inline adjusters twist. Sometimes you need to lightly grip the narrower part to stop it twisting too. Turn it one way and the adjuster will extend; turn it the other and it will shorten. Be aware that turning to full extension can result in the two halves separating. No great problem but be aware. Have a look here: https://youtu.be/2zUhwdXj7wc
You may also have a barrel adjuster on the frame; again adjust this so that it is not fully extended. Screw it all the way in, and then back out 1 to 1.5 turns to give you some cable adjustment either way once the inner is secured.
Good luck.
Podc
Make sure the shifter is in
Make sure the shifter is in the lowest gear (small paddle clicked twice), that any inline cable adjusters are adjusted to be as short as possible and that the end of the outer cable is properly seated. That should give you enough inner cable to clamp.Podc
Saddle rails? Had a squeak
Saddle rails? Had a squeak from where the rail went into the saddle body. Squirt of lube (GT-85) sorted it temporarily.
Podc
Front derailleur cable end
Front derailleur cable end hitting crank arm?
Podc
No engagement/drive can also
No engagement/drive can also be dangerous if you are trying to accelerate – much like a chain snapping.
I’d get it looked at if I was you ??
Podc
AfterPeak wrote:
AfterPeak wrote:I am not sure about electric groupset but the mech should come with a couple of small metal plates (one flat and one curved) that should be placed onto frame behind the mech. On 105 and ultegra there is a small screw that you screw in which presses against that plate and holds the angle of the mech.Good point – if it has one and the little adjustment bolt is screwed too far in, it will be hitting the plate and holding the FD out at the angle shown.
Podc
Hi. The only braze on FD I
Hi. The only braze on FD I have fitted was 105, but it had a curved mounting surface. The corresponding curve on the FD went behind the mount, and the FD bolt had a curved washer under its head – this allowed the FD to be rotated and aligned correctly.
This image from Merlin Cycles hopefully shows it:

Podc
They probably think you
They probably think you shouldn’t be there – even more so than normal – and you need to be taught a lesson.
Round my way, most road users are being quite well behaved but speeds seem to have gone up, and a few drivers are already slipping in to the ‘not expecting there to be anyone else about’ mode.
Podc
I’ve not had one wear out but
I’ve not had one wear out but I was in the habit of replacing them every spring – so probably about 4,000kms including winter commuting. I too have moved to using Uberbike ones and I didn’t bother replacing them last spring so the current ones have about 8,000kms on them and they are still nice and smooth.
I have heard that introducing excessive sideloads on the bearings with the plastic screw in tensioner on the left hand crank can cause premature wear. I do them up quite tight with my fingers and then back them off ever so slightly before tightening up the left hand crank arm.
March 28, 2020 at 7:57 am in reply to: So what are you doing to ride out (or in) the current situation? #956895Podc
Having to use my one period
Having to use my one period of exercise per day to walk (run) with the dogs. Bike has been cleaned, dressed for summer and locked away for the foreseeable

Podc
Sounds like a Mr Loophole
Sounds like a Mr Loophole type using his qualifications to give an air of respectability to his jaundiced and prejudiced views. -
AuthorReplies