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Not sure if I have been lucky
Not sure if I have been lucky or if this is of any use to anyone, but I’ve always managed to get the nipple out by using the plastic cover on the underside of the lever. It can be maneuvered to open up a gap and some pin nosed pliers can be poked in to grab the nipple and mangled cable end. Have done a few that way, but maybe, as I said, I have just been lucky. Will probably fail dismally on the next one now ☹
Not allowed to keep bikes on
Not allowed to keep bikes on his driveway? So what is he allowed to keep there I wonder…
… a 23% rise is maybe not a huge surprise.It was.
I’d try a the correct size
I’d try a the correct size torx bit and a bit of elastic band. Put the elastic band over the bolt head, push the torx drive in and then try and undo it. If you are lucky, the torx drive will get enough purchase to undo.
Good luck and hope you get it out successfully whatever method works.
Have another vote for DCR
Have another vote for DCR from me. Great wheels and service ?This thread prompted me to
This thread prompted me to check the price of a Cube bike that I’ve been interested in for a while but no one has had in stock. The RRP has gone up 23%
Won’t be getting one of them then.I’m ignoring it.
I’m ignoring it.
At the start of the 1st lockdown I decided to run a minimum of 5k every day. I carried on after lockdown ended and stopped after 200 days. My fitness score dropped off during this period. Any bike ride I fitted in seemed to up the score disproportionately so I decided that either I didn’t understand how it worked, or I had configured something wrong, or it just wasn’t very good. Unless running every day makes your fitness worse. Anyway I’m ignoring it.
I don’t think I could go any
I don’t think I could go any bigger as the seat tube clearance would be really tight.
The clearance on the brake was simply the cable across the tyre between the brake arms. The later version of the brake has longer arms so the cable sits further away from the tyre.
Just to muddy up the waters
Just to muddy up the waters again, I have a rim braked 2015 Propel and had to change the rear brake to a later version to fit a 25mm tyre.
Just for info, I replaced my
Just for info, I replaced my Ultegra crankset with new 105. No improvement ☹
I’ve read that through a few
I’ve read that through a few times and I think I understand what they did – aligned top jockey wheel perfectly to the cassette sprocket that gives the straightest chain line to the main front ring even if it means the hanger isn’t straight??
Is that how you interpret it? If so I will give it a try – and thanks for the info.
My affected bike is as quiet as you’d expect when on the small ring at the front.
I have similar on a bike with
I have similar on a bike with Ultegra. I’ve swapped derailleur, cassette and wheels but it’s still noisy. Same as yours – I can see the derailleur ‘flick’ in the gears that its noisy in but I have been able to improve it slightly by adjusting the b screw (I think I added chain tension) but it’s still the noisiest drivetrain on any of my bikes. I’m resigned to having to live with it ?
I managed to remove one
I managed to remove one recently by using a suitably sized punch and small hammer, using the holes to gently tap the ring round. Might need a bit of lube to help it on it’s way.
Hope you get it sorted.
Also check that the hose
Also check that the hose connection to the caliper is tight – a very slight fluid leak will make the brakes squeal.
When I had a MET helmet the
When I had a MET helmet the only place I could find replacement pads for it was direct from MET in Italy. They were reasonably priced and arrived quite quickly but they kept falling apart. Bought a different make helmet and made sure pads were readily available in the UK.
Won’t be getting one of them then.