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I have a mate telling me I
I have a mate telling me I should watch this series.. however I’m not sure I can put myself through listening to that egotistical twat bang on about how inept he is at everything.
I got you Biker Phil… this
I got you Biker Phil… this is what you need, it sits behind the bars so doesn’t interfere with outfront mounts and is super handy to stash stuff in and get stuff out from. https://alpkit.com/products/stem-cell
I’ve just noticed they’ve improved the design of the ‘lid’ as well. I might get a new one 🙂
I know many people who choose
I know many people who choose not to ride on roads and stay off-road due to safety concerns. Around Warwickshire we’re blessed with some beautiful countryside and mostly ‘reasonable’ish’ tarmac (in comparison to other places in the UK I’ve ridden). Sometimes it seems there are hoards of happy cyclists out and about and I can see why that might mean more frustrated entitled drivers.
I think I must average 1:1 ratio, rides to dickheads.. at least. Earlier this year I had an exceptional morning which genuinely shook me and made me just want to get home, very close passes, abuse, being driven at head on on narrow lanes, squeezed into a verge it was the worst ride ever, maybe six or more individual incidents which scared me.
Not even annoying.. just
Not even annoying.. just something to keep an eye out for.
I’d go with the Canyon,
I’d go with the Canyon, mainly due to that 700grams weight saving, because every time I went up a hill on the ribble I’d be thinking about the Canyon. (Which is exactly what I do every time I go up a hill on my endurance bike). Also I personally don’t value the integrated cockpit hugely.
Do have a look at Mason bikes
Do have a look at Mason bikes, they do steel, aluminium and TI frames, every model they do will fit your requirements and they get some great reviews.
Get a decent brand bearing
Get a decent brand bearing such as NTN or SKS.
6309 denotes the size
2RS denotes the seal – https://www.astbearings.com/bearing-closures.html
Search NTN (or SKS) 6309 2RS ABEC 3 (or ABEC 5) and buy the cheapest.
Clear answer – 25mm.. because
Clear answer – 25mm.. because of the rule of 105%
The Rule of 105 states that the rim must be at least 105% the width of the tire if you have any chance of re-capturing airflow from the tire and controlling it or smoothing it.
When discussing comfort, it’s subjective. Yes a bigger tyre at a lower pressure will be like riding a couch.. BUT I’m really quite happy running 25’s at 80psi on my roads at my weight they are more suited to how I ride. I also run a 23mm front and 25mm rear on my ‘best wheels’ for speed and I run 28mm’s on my winter bike which is lovely for plodding about on but I don’t usually beat any PB’s on it.
FWIW, I’m curious as to why you run such a differential of F/R tyre pressures? Is there a ‘bike fit’ reason for that? Having experimented a bit with pressures I found 65psi to be a bit too low for riding at speed.. general rule of thumb is about 5psi lower in the front than the rear.
ÂŁ45 seems too cheap, even for
ÂŁ45 seems too cheap, even for a no brand. I’d not risk a cheap fork, (and…Amazon! you heathen!) you’ll forever be questioning it when out riding and you’ll never know if or when it might fail.
Cheap yes, Chinese, fine, but do some research online for reputable Chinese frames and contact one of those for a fork.
A ‘screen’ is usually a thin
A ‘screen’ is usually a thin arm layer, they are quite popular in sunnier climates.
If you want an arm warmer by the castelli nanoflex, there’s a reason why they are popular.
If you’re getting cold on a coffee stop:
First thing is to undo your clothes and let the condensation out of your clothing before it turns to wet clothes, if you clothes turn from warm sweat to cold you’ve stopped for too long.
Invest in a decent base layer – you can’t go wrong with a Rapha base layer the pro one for milder fast rides and merino for colder or more social rides. If you buy a ‘thin one’ then be aware that any makes of thin base layers are very similar, chapeau make one almost the same as rapha at a fraction of the cost.. I’ve not seen anyone produce a better merino long sleeve base layer than rapha though
Keep your core warm. Probably the most exciting base layer/gillet I’ve seem recently is the Spatz BurnR gilet, it is expensive, but Spatz are killing it for cold and wet weather performance. Their gillet is sort of tight knitted very stretchy and has a windproof part over the shoulders and chest where you need it most.
Would love to hear from the
Would love to hear from the cyclist on this..
Yes, this is absolutely my experience of tubeless with rollers. My other observation that rollers accentuate rolling resistance differences between tyres. Two tyres that feel not much different on road can feel way different on rollers. I think that the generally small diameter of rollers puts a lot of flex into the tyre casing. So differences in casings show up as differences in resistance. The flexing also opens up any casing wounds that have been concealed by sealant.So I don’t think it’s anything to do with sealant types. The solution is that tubeless tyres used on rollers need to be in good condition.
I disagree, I’ve used tubeless tyres and rollers for about five years now, mostly the Schwalbe Pro Ones (which I mention as they are soft and cut/nick easily). As it happened, on Sunday I put on a winter set of wheels/tyres the other day for rollers and almost instantly a hole opened up, annoying! My sealant was off, I also noted that the tyres were quite worn, I duly replaced the sealant pumped up to 110psi.. and no further problems. All sealant is not equal.
Also you should have a high psi on rollers or you bounce about.. ergo, it shouldn’t affect the ‘flex’ of the tyre casing, you’d flex more than on the road at lower psi.
I totally agree about the rolling resistance, the difference between tubed and tubeless was about 3/4mph on rollers for me. I’ve do a 10min warmup at threshold before intervals for years. Years of HR/Speed/Cadence data on this, before switching to tubeless, same wheels and my warmup went from a consistent 32/33mph-96ish rpm to a consistent 36/37mph-103rpm, same 110 psi every time, the only difference being tyres and the lack of tubes. I love a bit of tubeless me 🙂
Interesting topic.
Take a look here –Â https:/
Take a look here – https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/10-best-cheap-cycling-shoes-209762
Any on that list will be fine, but personally I’d get some with velcro and not laces as they are easy to slip on and off and adjust on the fly.
If the shoe has a ‘tread or a recessed area on the underside’ it’s for SPD cleats.
If the shoe has a ‘flat base with some holes in’ it’ll work with Look Keo cleats.
Thanks. The sealant is pretty new. I didn’t realise rollers were so tough on a tyre! Maybe the holes which are sealed fine on the road are just too big for the heat/harshness of rollers.It could be your sealant.. I know we’ve moved on a bit since road tubeless first started out, but I still don’t trust all sealants to work at high pressures. I use Bontrager TLR or Orange Seal, they do work.
I don’t know if it’s the
I don’t know if it’s the higher pressure or the heat or both on rollers which have opened up old holes for me in the past but it’s highlighted that I was running old sealant (clear’ish brown), I’ve found that just replacing the liquid has solved it.