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Nice to hear a good customer
Nice to hear a good customer service story!
Gratz on the bike, loos very nice 🙂
Email me your phone number mate. Might have your orange mason if your still lookingNot sure how often he’s on here, but he’s a member of my local clubs FB group so have messaged him on there.
peted76 when you get a thorn in your tyre and it seals do you have to still replace the tyre when you get home? I recently got a thorn lodged in my clincher and while it didn’t puncture the tube I was advised by my riding buddies to replace the carcass.I’ve pulled thorns out of my tyres.. no issues there for me.
I’ve had one occasion where a had a ‘tear’ in the trye on the main tread, it sealed okay and got me home, but was maybe three or four mm long, in that case I took patched the tyre directly from the inside, you need to use tougher than the usual innertube patches with tubeless, but it’s the same principal. It did leave a deformation (lump) in my tyre though which while I didn’t really notice when riding did reduce the already tight clearances between the wheel and frame on my TCR.
Note to all: Let’s kill the zombie fact that sealants dry out – a number of the newer ones don’t. I’ve had Slime Pro still liquid in tyres a year after installing. I’m more than happy to spend £10 a year topping it up if needed. As a peace-of-mind investment for thousands of miles of flat-free, low rolling-resistance, comfortable cycling, it’s a no-brainer.Sealants DO dry out, most of them. There’s been a few come onto the market recently which proport not to, but killing a zombie won’t help anyone if you discover your sealant has dried out on the side of the road.
I can only think your experience is refering to mtb tyres as you mentioned slime, which is too thick for easily adding via the valve core of a presta valve.
MTB tubeless cannot be used in the same breath as road tubless, the sealants are different, this is my ‘exact’ bugbear with tubeless, when I set out on my tubeless journey, I defaulted to ‘stans’, however it just didn’t work at higher pressures, this is undisputable (apparently they have a new formula, but I’ve not tried it. I’ve tried slime but it was too gloopy, I’ve tried continental revo, but that didn’t seal at high pressure either, the schwalbe stuff is just rebadged stans I believe, Bontrager sealant did/does work very well, however you have to shake the bottle for a ridiculous amount of time.. I’m now on Orange Seal which hasn’t given me any headaches and the sediment doesn’t seem to congeal as densely at the bottom of the bottle.
To add a caveat, I used stans for some time, it would seal a hole, however I’ve had minutes at the side of a road trying with a wheel off the ground watching it spurt and splutter before it pugs the hole only to have it come open again a few hundred meters down the road. I would suggest that if you were using stans or a similar you’d need to add ‘more’ sealant to the tyre to feel justified in using it, but you’ll no doubt end up with it all over your frame. The ‘convienience’ factor is when using a better sealant you don’t even know you’ve punctured until you get home, which is where I am today.
I went out yesterday with three visible sealed holes in my schwable pro-ones and came home with a fourth, it wasn’t until I got home and checkled that I noticed.
I should probably add that
I should probably add that although I didn’t have to use it, my anxiety made me carry a spare tube with me for at least 18months after converting to tubeless.
I’ve been using tubeless
I’ve been using tubeless Schwable Pro Ones since August 2015. For me as an early adopter of road tubeless, it was a case of trial and error, I’ve been through three or four different sealants (which is still the biggest case against road tubeless and for pissing people off – do use Orange Seal or Bontrager sealant and shake VERY well before use), and lots of rim tapes.
However in two years and seven months, I’ve not needed to put a tube in or remove the tyre from the rim. Since getting the sealant ‘right’ I’ve never not managed to get home.
I will at some point buy one of those emergency ‘sticky worm’ things to out in my saddle bag, but at the moment all I carry is a ‘small’ bottle (think 20 or 30ml size) of sealant and a co2 cannister.
I believe tubeless tyres ‘feel’ more supple and nicer on the roads, and I’m not the only one who I know who thinks this.
Take a look at these:
Take a look at these:
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/defy-advanced-pro-0-2018
https://masoncycles.cc/products/definition-ultegra-di2-hydro
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/2018/endurace-cf-slx-disc-8-0.html
T325C // TITANIUM RIM BRAKE ROAD BIKE
I think specialized and trek and not quite as much but also cannondale are all overpriced for what you can get elsewhere.
With your budget you can get a really lovely bike no doubt, I’d reccomend you tried to ride them all before making your mind up. If I were you, I’d get a nice lightweight (sub 1.6kg inc fork) titanium frame and build yourself a bike which you’ll ride forever.
Riding out there sounds like
Riding out there sounds like fun 🙂
I think this is a facinating
I think this is a facinating project you’re doing. However I still think you’ll be far better off buying an Isla and getting it wrapped or sprayed.
You could look at putting gears on a BMX?
Weight of a Isla Bennin 20 is about 8kg, the 24 is 9kg by the way, it’s quite probable that you could do all of the fettling above and still end up with a bike which weighs more and rides worse than an off the shelf bike.
This thread has a good chance
This thread has a good chance of giving me nightmares.
I presume that’s tubed.. I
I presume that’s tubed.. I run tubeless 25’s and 28’s, I’m 74kgs. Consider inner rim width also.
Personally 25mm = anywhere between 80-90 psi depending on weather and distance. I will only have a 5psi difference front to back so that’d be 85/90 psi for a short fast ride. 28mm = my general rule is about 10psi less. I acknowledge people can run really low pressures, and I have tried lower also, but this generally suits me for most of the rides I’m doing.
For your wife, I’d go 60/65psi, I don’t know what it’s like to be 57kg’s but my thinking is that cornering may get a bit squirrely, which isn’t a nice feeling.
I have a racy carbon bike and
I have a racy carbon bike and a mason definition for winter/off road/touring… I’ve seen 35mm tyres on the mason (although they say it only takes up to a 32mm…) and I’ve ordered some 33mm tyres but not come through yet – no actual experience offroad properley as yet with it.
The Mason is a pleasure to ride at all times on the road, apart from in when a fast group where I can feel myself being dialled back a bit when with a faster group mainly on the hills, but I’m usually that much on the limit that it’s to be expected. The bike is fast on the flast it feels like it surges with minimal effort and is a dream downhill being planted and fast.
Of course that doesn’t help you… but hey that’s my set up.
Didn’t enter the ballot this
Didn’t enter the ballot this year for the first time in about five years.. fed up of being refused and still being sent a stupid magazine.
Or Malcom @ The Cycle Clinic
Or Malcom @ The Cycle Clinic – https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/road-rim-brake-wheelsets
Higher pressures cause the
Higher pressures cause the tyre to expand. Lower pressure = smaller tyre (a little bit – not sure you could get away with an extra couple of mm).
I’d suggest however that if you’re clearance is that minimal then you should stick with the smaller tyre.
I had an issue with a 25mm tyre at high pressure on a giant tcr frame.. I puctured and repaired it but it left a bulge in the tyre.. If I ran lower pressure, no problems whatsoever. Anyway I left it, forgot about it and on a hot day riding over a bit of warm tar managed to pic a stone up which got jammed into my frame. I’d also had issues with claggy mud causing stones to jam in there also.
It’s rare, but that minimal tyre clearance can cause issues. I run tubeless by the way.