Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Also, note the Q factor on
Also, note the Q factor on these is 16mm.. that’s a very large width addition.. I think it’s significant when I move my pedals out by 3mm, I’d be a bit nervous about 16mm additioanl width on the pedal.
DCRainmaker guesses that it
DCRainmaker guesses that it will come to market around spring next year, if it does and at that pricing, it’ll drive down all the existing PM’s quickly to new levels. Which is good for us. I’ll probably even get a PM at £200.. ideally a nice discreet stages or 4iii one 🙂
For different bikes you need to be taking measurements from the ground. Go ground to top of saddle and then ground to nose of the saddle.Er not sure that’s right Phil.. I have a road bike with a lower bottom bracket than the other..
However saying that, personally I find trying to get find the centre of the BB with a chainset installed is a right pain. If there’s another way.. I’m all ears.
Erm.. yes you’ve missed a lot
Erm.. yes you’ve missed a lot of bike racing by the look of it.
This year so far he’s won the Tirreno Adriatico and the Tour of Algarve.. Lat year he won Milan San Remo and Strade Bianchi.
Sky have had a bit of a stinker this year to be fair (not unexpected considering the circumstances), but Kwiatkowski has been fantastic in every race I’ve seen him in. His performance at the TdF last year as domestique for Froome was the performance of the race for many people (me included).
One of the issues Kwiatkowski has is that Sky doesn’t have a strong ‘spring classics team’ at Sky.. it’s usually made up of a couple of stawlarts and the numbers appear to be made up by their neo-pro’s. Also this year Stannard has been well off race pace and Rowe has been coming back from injury which has left them a bit short in the early start to the season.
I’ve found Bonts to be
I’ve found Bonts to be slightly shorter, but wider in the toe box than other shoes.
Another example of buying shoes online.. gah I hate that I can’t walk into somewhere and try on the make and model I want to try on.
Someone really needs to design a shoe fitting service like a bit fit and get it in shops quick (Retul have one but I ‘think’ it’s just in specialized shops for now).
Regardless… gloss red is
Regardless… gloss red is the correct colourway. Carry on,
If you’re getting numbness on only one side of your foot by the way, it’s probably due to over or under pronation, this can be easily fixed with the shims which come with cleats in the box.. here’s a pic which exaggerates the angles but the point is clearly made.. SHIMS FOR THE WINS!How does that apply to SPD-SL cleats? I’ve never seen anything else come with the cleats themselves so I guess you’d have to buy something seperately?
The Bonts come with specific shorter cleats screws so that could be an issue as well.
Excuse the image, it’s just an example, my experience in this is all from road shoes/cleats.. I run Time xpresso pedals.. however it also holds true for mtb and gravel pedals as per the image above.
The time cleats I buy all come with yellow shims (or maybe it’s the pedals), don’t shimano’s also, maybe not, it’s been a while since I’ve brought any.. you can also make your own… it’s only a shim – thin peices of plastic thicker on one side than the other.
I also run bonts and do have to use longer screws on my right shoe as I have a 3mm spacer in there. This makes me sound like a right old knacker.. (most people have one leg longer than the other which can also contribute to all sorts of other fitting issues).
If you’re getting numbness on
If you’re getting numbness on only one side of your foot by the way, it’s probably due to over or under pronation, this can be easily fixed with the shims which come with cleats in the box.. here’s a pic which exaggerates the angles but the point is clearly made.. SHIMS FOR THE WINS!
I have this problem with my right foot. Right hamstring also gets a little hot as well. Probably some biomechanical issue as I get it whether I’m on flats, road or mtb spds. The skin on my right big toe is a lot more flattened and calloused as well.If I stop for 5 mins every hour or so it kind of resets to normality, so it’s rinse and repeat.
That sounds to me like it’s an easy fix with a bit of fettling, worth looking into it or just get a cleat fit done, that’ll identify and rectify the issue (most likely).
Yes, me, many times. You can
Yes, me, many times. You can call it a numb foot, but it’s really a lack of blood flow to an area within your shoe.
It could be a number of reasons why you’re suffering, however the first thing to check is that your cleats aren’t too far forward, this can causes your foot to be forced into the shoe harder than needed. (Too far back has it’s own issues, so try moving in increments)
Under or over pronation, same thing but on a sideways axis, forcing your foot into the shoe in a position the foot does not like.
Your shoes could just be too tight ‘generally’, but I’m presuming you’d feel that when you put them on before peddlling.
I still suffer with numb feet when I put certain (constricting) overshoes on or when wearing thicker socks.. my shoes are right on the limit of my feet size wise.
All shoes unless specified will take Look or Shimano cleats. As for reccomendations, we don’t even know if you need new shoes yet, could just be one of the issues as above?
Genuinley shoe fitting is a problem in the UK more than you’d imagine, some of the UK disti’s do not import the half sizes or wide sizes of some shoe brands such as Shimano.. so you can’t try on a pair of wide fitting shimano’s for example. Also (a lot of) shoe brands use different ‘lasts’ by model.. so you might fit great in a pair of X brand shoes which cost £80, but the £200 model by the same manufacturer are a different shape.. Some are really narrow across the range.. some aren’t as deep on the midfoot, some have large ankle openings.. I’ve been on a bit of a mission recently looknig for a decent reasonably high end pair of shoes.. I’ve tried on Shimano, Giant, Northwave, Mavic, Specialized, Giro, Gaerne, Bontrager.. I want a very stiff, light, low profile shoe, (in white ideally) which I can adjust on the road and am willing to spend up to £250/£300 maximum. As ‘all’ shoes proport to be light, stiff, and low profile at that end of the market you’d think I’d be laughing.. but not one of the brands mentioned have a show which fits me.. I have ‘slightly’ wide feet and size as a UK 8.5 nothing too unusual really, it’s a really poor showing from the market I feel not to be able to take my money from me for a pair of simple cycling shoes I feel… and breathe.. #rantover
You’re 6’2″ .. go with the
You’re 6’2″ .. go with the bigger frame and a shorter stem.. a 56 isn’t for normal people sized 6’2″.
You ‘should’ really get fitted out, most decent shops will fit you up before you buy or when you buy, this usually includes stem swap outs.. so you can leave a shop without too many worries of fitting. Worthwhile for you and your long legs and shorts arms IMO.
The bike live demo days Road
The bike live demo days Road.cc run have 14 canyon road bikes there to demo.. next one is in Cannock in a week or two, I’m going!
I think this thread peaked
I think this thread peaked early on and is now well and truely in the decline..
You’re enjoying bike riding and are getting fitter and faster. Buy a new bike, it is the answer. Yes you can buy more speed by upgrading your current bike parts, but at the end of the day, you’ll be left with a bike which will bug you. Buy that new bike.. it’s part of your initiation to the quirly world of cyclists who’ll tell you not to buy a new bike (however have probably brought a gazillion new bikes in their past)… Buy the bike and get the new bike feeling.. quick before summer gets here!
I believe for your budget, if you looked at a new bike you should upgrade to a road race bike, it seems the kind of riding you’re looking to achieve is racy, so although you’re doing well on a more upright bigger clearance sort of bike now, any ‘normal’ road bike will show you ‘some’ advantage over the Jamis you’re on now. For your budget you should consider Aluminium framed bike, which nowadays will be far better than any entry level carbon frame…. the Cannondale CAAD12 Ultegra Disc is about £2k, I bet you could source last years for under £2k, you’ll not get much better bike and spec for your requirements than that (you should be able to get 10% off ‘any’ new bike anyway in an LBS or decent shop which would bring it down to less than £2k).
I also see a cannondale synapse ultegra with discs for about £2k, this is not the same as ther caad12 which has a far nicer crankset and acessories, don’t be fooled by the carbon factor.
Aero is ‘considered’ more
Aero is ‘considered’ more important that weight.. however it’s relative. A new bike will not replace better fitness. Also the ‘frame’ it’self isn’t where you’ll cheat the most wind, (beyond yourbody clothes and helmet) wheels are probably the biggest aero advantage you can gain as far as spending money is concerned.
However in answer to your query, it depends on where you are and what kind of rider you are.. the short answer is for lumpy rides = light weight. For flat rides = outright aero.
Although you can pootle about on any bike and enjoy riding, my local club training runs are flat-out for an 60-90mins.. I feel far better on my lightweight TCR and rim brakes over my more comfortable Mason with discs. There’s about 2kg difference and it’s very noticeable. The Mason is however a fabulous machine for social rides or mile munching. Horses for courses, same as the lightweight vs aero descicion you’re making, you sort of can’t have it all for £2k. Althought £2k is a lot of cash, it’s not in bike terms. For your money I’d personally get a really good frameset (£2k gets you a great frameset – especially if you look at last years frames) and pay your local LBS £75 to swap the bits over from your Jamis. … in fact this… .. https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Cannondale/SuperSix-Evo-Hi-MOD-Disc-Frameset/F65J ….you’re very welcome.
That cassette looks very
That cassette looks very slightly used but really minimal wear as I can see.
I’ve heard it said that says you shoud change the cassette and chain at the same time… but looking at that cassette that could only be a call that this mechanic would have taken without actually looking at your cassette. (I don’t adhere to that by the way)
It’s dead easy to change a cassette yourself really a three min job.