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notfastenough
Can you confirm that you’re
Can you confirm that you’re comfortable on the Synapse? No aches/pains after 80 miles? How many headset spacers do you currently have under the stem (if any)?If not, I’d suggest getting a bike fit sorted first. That will narrow your list down considerably. Admittedly this means paying cash up front (I paid £110 for mine in Manchester), but mine wasn’t tied to a shop or purchase of a particular bike, so I have an unbiased baseline from which to work, and doesn’t involve a shop trying to get me to fit the particular brands of bikes that they sell.
From there you’ll know which ranges you can choose from, i.e. if you’re comfortable on Cannondale’s ‘endurance’ offering – the synapse – then perhaps a Focus Cayo (their endurance bike) should be on the list, and the Izalco (their race bike) scrubbed off. This may also imply that the Supersix and possibly the Kharma should be dropped. The Synapse is, however, a bit more agressive than the Roubaix, so you could probably drop the possibly-too-upright Roubaix and add a headset spacer or two to the racier-geometry Tarmac to achieve an equivalent position to the Synapse. See where this is going? It’s all based on the presumption that the position you’re trying to achieve is indeed the position you should be in. Bike fit first, then bike shortlist.
If you can do that and come back to us with a diagram provided by the bike fitter, then together with a budget and your other info re type of riding etc, you should be able to narrow it down to list of similar bikes, then you just need to pick the one that looks fast and will make you drag yourself out of bed early to ride the knackers off it.
notfastenough
Chorlton Velo – best club in
Chorlton Velo – best club in town! 😀PM me if you fancy coming out with us.
notfastenough
Old Cranky wrote:For the
[quote=Old Cranky]For the latest carbon framed – Di2 state of the art bike for under £2k, I don’t think you can go wrong with the Ridley Excalibur…http://www.pearsoncycles.co.uk/store/content/106/Ridley-Excalibur/%5B/quote%5D
That looks like some deal.
notfastenough
Ok, so I gave you the budget
Ok, so I gave you the budget version, but municipal waste has gone all pistonheads on us! 😀 I actually typed snow-foam but deleted it because although it’s a good move, I don’t have direct experience on them.notfastenough
That’s good news. What size
That’s good news. What size frame did you end up with? Do you have spacers as well? I’m just interested to know whether the bike fitting dimensions turned out correct.notfastenough
Did you get this sorted?
Did you get this sorted? I’ve had a bike fitting recently, and fit my current bike very well now. However, for reference when I look to my next purchase, I do wish he’s stated standard stack and reach figures.I think I might just create a scale drawing in Visio and work out the stack/reach from there.
From your drawings, the total effective stack height appears to be about 653mm c-to-c. That sounds a bit *too* high to me, even without knowing you, but I would suggest starting with the Specialized Roubaix and seeing what your position is like on that.
notfastenough
Do I get extra points for
Do I get extra points for having two in 1 image?notfastenough
I don’t know – is it someone
I don’t know – is it someone familiar?notfastenough
Tony69 wrote:Cheers for the
Tony69 wrote:Cheers for the advice, would i need to use clay on a new car?
Dave, arent you supposed to ride your bike. I think your missing the point if you just keep putting it in the car hahaWell the dealership will ‘prep’ the car for delivery – this consists of taking off some weird transit ‘wax’ and removing the blue sheets of protective film, bits of polystyrene, transit blocks in shock absorbers etc. Then they wash and wax it, with variable results. Some places do it properly and leave the car gleaming. Some places pay someone else £15 a car and don’t check the work, cue some lad who doesn’t speak English on £3 an hour just giving it a quick once over with a sponge and resulting in your new pride and joy having swirls in the paintwork from day one.
Thus, a purist would tell the dealership to leave the paintwork completely bare and apply proper polishes themselves, OR use a clay bar to take off the stuff they have applied, then start from scratch themselves.
Personally, I only used clay after 12 months to take off the tar spots and dull patches, then re-wax.
Oh, and look under the wheel arches and check all the shocks look the same. Some idiot left the offside rear transit block on mine, car didn’t handle right (downright dangerous actually) until I spotted it and took it in to dish out a bollocking.
Also:
http://strumors.automobilemag.com/files/2011/07/2012-Fiat-500-bike-carrier-1024×640.jpgnotfastenough
Hose off excess muck
2
Hose off excess muck
2 buckets, 1 with hottish water. Mequires shampoo in the hot one.
Clean sponge into hot one, wring lightly, wipe down one panel or section.
Rinse in 2nd bucket.
Rinse and repeat, as they say.
Start at the top and work down.
Hose to rinse again, then microfiber cloth to dry.
Glass cleaner on glass.
Wheel cleaner + kitchen dish brush on alloys.Worked a treat when I had a TT. Enjoy the car!
notfastenough
Oh dear. Good point about his
Oh dear. Good point about his position of high ground as well.notfastenough
It would be if I thought he
It would be if I thought he was joking.notfastenough
It’s not all about weight, or
It’s not all about weight, or even speed. I enjoy covering ground quickly as much as the next guy, but my winter wheels weigh a total of 3.15kg with tyres/tubes/cassette/skewers. My christmas present, on the other hand (Mavi Ksyrium Equipes) weigh 2.6-2.7kg fully loaded. However, the difference on climbs is really not that great. They spin up easier, but they also flex under load. I’m going to get the spoke tension checked out, but as things stand, I wouldn’t buy them again.May 1, 2013 at 8:44 am in reply to: If I build it, will they come? New 100km/1500m sportive in northern Hampshire #731291notfastenough
KiwiMike wrote:
And AudaxersKiwiMike wrote:
And Audaxers don’t have any money. They blow it all on fig newtons and LED headtourches used to fix flats in A-road laybys at 3am.I think.
😀 😀
notfastenough
I can buy a lot of other nice
I can buy a lot of other nice kit for the price of a power meter, but if you are willing to just have it on the turbo, you could try using trainerroad.com with an ant+ device? Seems like a very good way of doing it on the cheap. You will need to check that you turbo is one of those with listed calibration for trainerroad. -
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