Forum Replies Created
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I promised myself that I
I promised myself that I would put more effort in this year. I picked my team for the TDU – then didn’t make any transfers. Then my twins and milk/nappies etc got in the way and I missed all this. Sounds like a right bust up!md6 wrote:Maybe you once
Maybe you once believed and feel wronged, who was it who hurt you so, Colin? Who?Oh my, I’ve got it! Colin Peyresoude is an anagram of…. Paul Kimmage!*
*This bit may not be entirely true.
God is this thread still
God is this thread still running?To be fair, at least Mooleur’s insults are funny.
morethansonglyrics wrote:
if
[quote=morethansonglyrics]
if I wanted to hear a review of a budget tyre, I could have found one on any old bike shop website.
[quote]If you didn’t want to hear a review of a budget tyre, why did you click the thread titled “Schwalbe Marathon – personal review”? Rather obvious, no? Or you just trolling?
morethansonglyrics wrote:
if
[quote=morethansonglyrics]
if I wanted to hear a review of a budget tyre, I could have found one on any old bike shop website.
quote]If you didn’t want to hear a review of a budget tyre, why did you click the thread titled “Schwalbe Marathon – personal review”? Rather obvious, no? Or you just trolling?
That ‘rocking’ is something
That ‘rocking’ is something you should only see once the cleats need replacing – i.e. after a good couple of thousand miles or more.@Craig749 – what’s the reason you’re looking to change? I ask because while it’s nice to buy upgrades, the shoe/pedal interface is both subjective and crucial – if you’re happy with your ability to pedal hard, clip in/out, no pain, shoes fit etc etc, I’d look elsewhere if I just had a bit of money to spend.
If, however, you’re looking to sort out your knee pain or something, then Speedplays are very good ASSUMING that the pain is caused by the pedal itself. It could just as easily be caused by incorrect arch or varus/valgus support. Read this for more info:
http://www.njdsportsinjuries.co.uk/musculoskeletal-screening_39_1137245469.pdf
Gman59c wrote:then he brake
then he brake checks me and then cuts into my pasty several times.Ah well, if he cut into your pasty, I reckon you have carte blanche to do whatever you like! Tyre marks on my cheese & onion would result in chaos…
Snap! The Contour Roam 2 is
Snap! The Contour Roam 2 is very good indeed, I paid £115 on Amazon. Add £20 for the SD card, £15 for the helmet mount and you’re away. You’ll need to configure it for high-res so numberplates are readable. It also doesn’t make you look like a tellytubby (I’m looking at you, gopro!).I run it on the top of the helmet, but handily the lens rotates to counter the angle at which it’s mounted so you don’t end up with a lopsided picture wherever it’s situated.
As much as it feels like
As much as it feels like ‘giving in’ to buy one, this is where a helmet cam is invaluble. It’s infuriating. Chin up, and try and spare time for a takeaway treat, a beer and a movie (or whatever floats your boat) this evening.Don’t let it stop you riding either. Let me know if you want advice on the cam.
And wazam! As of by magic,
And wazam! As of by magic, this is posted:http://road.cc/content/news/114718-just-trek-domane-20
Giants website lists the Defy as one of their endurance bikes, so a touch more relaxed. If your local shop sells Giant, I don’t think you’ll go wrong with a defy.
All it was missing was a
All it was missing was a 70’s-style Batman pic complete with “KABLAM!” caption.There was me thinking that Mooleur’s “Face. Palm.” post was basically a way of bowing out of the argument becuase she couldn’t be arsed arguing with a brick wall. You came back with a vengeance there, no?! :))
Hi Hamish, welcome and as
Hi Hamish, welcome and as someone said above, prepare to have your wallet raided!I wouldn’t worry about brands and groupsets at this stage, to be honest. If you focus on finding a decent shop that doesn’t seem to just want to sell you whatever they can, then most of this stuff will pick itself through a logical process – if your shop stocks Giant, then make no mistake, they are good bikes. In fact, there a very few poor bikes around, provided you go to a proper bike shop. Once your budget and type of riding is known, the staff should be able to recommend a model to suit.
Other stuff:
1. Broadly speaking, there tends to be a few different types of road bike – ‘race’ bikes, ‘sportive’ bikes, then infinite shades of grey around Tourers, commuters, cyclocross bikes that all claim to be a ‘do it all’ bike. These ‘types’ refer to things like the geometry (i.e. more racey = flatter and more stretched out body position when riding), allowances for rack and mudguards, tyre width, whether the tyres are slick or knobbly, the sizes and number of gears provided etc. This can go on and on into disc brakes, tubing materials, blah blah…Road bikes are most commonly built from aluminium or carbon fibre, so you’ll find that each range has, for example, a racey model and a sportive model in alu, then again with different names, in carbon. So Specialized has the racey range with the alu Allez and the carbon Tarmac, then it has the sportive range, with the alu Secteur and the carbon Roubaix. Each bike is offered in different levels of spec depending on your budget – can you tell us what that is? (Don’t feel funny about owning up to what you think may be too little or too much to spend!)
Some things I learned:
More important than any kit or materials used, is the fit. Make sure the shop will fit you to your new bike.
Fit isn’t a one-time thing, it’s a process. Don’t worry if 6 months down the line, you’re thinking the fit isn’t quite right – your body adapts to the riding and changes as a result.
If I could go back and start again, I’d buy aluminium first time round – this is because once bitten by the bug, you’ll want a second bike, and your first will get relegated to poor weather or commuting. You may not think this now, but the thing is, position and kit preferences are so subjective, that 12 months down the line you’ll be getting a feel for the kit you really want based on your experience, and it won’t be the same as you’ve already bought. It’s also partly because good alu tends to be better than cheap carbon for around the same price.
Feel free to use trainers and flat pedals while you get used to the bike. Clipless are brilliant, but they only really come into their own when you want to learn efficient pedalling technique.
With regard to kit, I’d try and keep it to a sensible set:
Base layer, fingerless and full finger gloves
Winter jersey/bibtights
windproof packable rain jacket
summer jersey/bibshorts/armwarmers
helmet should you choose to wear one
Pedals and shoes – these come in various systems with associated pros and cons – influencing factors would include any history of knee pain, type of riding, whether you want to be able to walk properly in the shoes, ease of use, cost etcIf you can tell us your area, you may find someone can recommend a local shop. Something like a Specialized Secteur (alu, relaxed geometry) would probably be ideal from what you have said (some nice paint jobs now too!). If I recall correctly, the Merida ‘Ride’ series are aimed at the same type of riding.
Always fun, buying a new bike!
Well the internal routing is
Well the internal routing is just one of the tell-tales, I got the feeling that the frame design is a bigger update than that…Colin, so if innocent until
Colin, so if innocent until proven guilty is no use in sport, and the tests can be cheated, how is one supposed to convince anyone they’re clean? You can’t prove a negative, so what to do?Also, when (or at what level) does this magic temptation to dope start? There are racers on this thread, why not accuse them of doping?
Don’t know about the dark ed,
Don’t know about the dark ed, but I believe the 2014 R3 105 retains last year’s R3 frameset, but others (i.e. the Ultegra version) use the 2014 frameset. See the other recent R3 thread for details. If I remember correctly, one of the key tell-tale differences between them is internal cable routing.
