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If you’re buying £200 bikes
If you’re buying £200 bikes on Gumtree or FB Marketplace, please check the frame number on https://www.bikeregister.com/ – you might help return someone’s stolen bike.
But as others have said, go second hand for better bikes. I got a lovely steel framed Orbit for a student friend last year for £70 on Ebay. Beautifully maintained by its owner, sensible 7 speed Shimano gears, and two new tyres that probably cost £70 on their own.
That’s really odd, I have a
That’s really odd, I have a number of the older Rubino Pro model that are still in perfect nick. Did they get cooked by being in the sun or by a radiator?
Try with a really short stem,
Try with a really short stem, like one of these mountain bike stems:
That should shorten the reach enough – and will give you nice quick steering too.
I look forward to hearing the report!
Add a free listing to the
Add a free listing to the BikeRegister database as used by the police: https://www.bikeregister.com/
FindThatBike is an ‘aggregate’ service that searches all the major bike listings and alerts you daily to matches: https://findthatbike.co.uk
Good luck!
The problem you’ll have is
The problem you’ll have is that flat bar bikes typically have a top tube far too long for use (for the same person) with drops. The forward reach on drop bars is typically 70-80mm, and then the brifters add another 50-60mm forward… you won’t be able to shorten the stem enough to make up for the extra reach. You’ll end up in an awkward forward stretch, or having to move the seat forward unattractively.
The only exception is if the flat bar bike is too small for you. Then you’ll benefit from the extra reach that drop bars provide.
No, sadly. Raleigh used a
How would the cranks fit though ?Would the frame not just be BSA threaded?
No, sadly. Raleigh used a proprietary 26tpi thread, so you can’t use standard BSA 24tpi bottom brackets. You have to recut the thread to 24tpi, but it may well strip when you torque your new bb up to 40Nm.
It used to be possible to fit a square taper Shimano UN72 bottom bracket, which simply slipped through and had a threaded ring on one end, but they’re no longer made. See this discussion: https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/276390-raleigh-twenty-bottom-bracket-questions.html
I got a pair of Shimano RT
I got a pair of Shimano RT-82s about a decade ago that are still going strong and don’t look out of place on a road bike. I expect there’s a more recent model. They’re not particularly stiff, so they’re great for walking in, perfect for touring or anything where there’s milling about or dirt.
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rt82-spd-touring-cycle-shoes
This winter I got a pair of Northwave Celcius GTX SPD shoes, best decision ever. No more fussing about with overshoes or toe thingies that wear out too fast!
People underestimate the cost
People underestimate the cost of driving by 50% according to this paper in Nature:
https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-020-01118-w
The authors recommend that car adverts should be forced to include real costs per mile.
That looks like a cross
That looks like a cross between the first part of the Dunwich Dynamo (through Epping forest out to Great Dunmow) and the loop I did with Islington Cycling Club a few weeks ago via Woodford. They’ve left out some of the best climbs though: Mott Street, Claypit Hill, Woodridden Hill, Toot Hill, and so on.
Exactly, the paper maps are
Exactly, the paper maps are really useful… especially the regional maps, East Anglia, South East England, and so on:
https://www.stanfords.co.uk/South-East-England-AA-Road-Map_9780749579036
Back in the day Colnago’s
Back in the day Colnago’s bikes were only available with a traditional (horizontal) top tube. Then at some point they were offered in Sloping (modern) or traditional (horizontal) geometry. The sloping geometry was designated by an ‘S’ after the number. The number refers to the seat tube centre-top dimension, so a 52s (‘sloping’) has a 52cm seat tube but the same effective top tube (550mm) as a 56 (‘traditional’). Those number designations cause a lot of confusion to this day.
Here for example is the geometry chart for the C59 with the ‘sloping’ geometry on the top chart and ‘traditional’ below:
The C60 was the last to include the traditional (horizontal top tube) option:
The C64 finally dropped the traditional option, retaining only ‘sloping’ and ‘high’ geometries. The ‘high’ geometry also features a sloping top tube. Here’s the geometry chart for the C64 with ‘high’ and ‘sloping’ geometry shown:
The geometries are indicated in the sizing by 52s or 52h. Both 52h and 52s have the same seat tube length (52cm), but the stack is higher for the high version and the reach slightly less. This is achieved by putting more slope on the top tube, and fitting a longer head tube.
They have an explanation on their website as to why they now only produce bikes with sloping top tubes:
https://www.colnago.com/en/news-en/road-news-en/the-reason-for-sloping/
I’m sure someone will be along soon to correct this, but that’s as I understand it.
If you’re interested in the evolution of Colnago’s carbon bikes, this is packed with info (pdf):
http://brown-snout.com/cycling/tech/_colnago-c40-family-tree.pdf
I’ve had that happen with
I’ve had that happen with lower end Shimano freehubs – the sort that need a massive hex key to remove. The freehub bearings go stiff and then the chain starts to misbehave. The other thing is that the pawls can stick and you’ll suddenly find you have no forward motion at all – usually just when you’re trying to get out of the way of a lorry. Sounds like it needs a service. Also check the jockey wheels. Replace the gear cable – if the end breaks off in the shifter you’ll need a new shifter.
I’d suggest going anywhere but Halford’s based on the erroneous advice they’ve given you so far.
Yes – I live in central
Yes – I live in central London and if I’ve set off early in the morning on quiet roads it’s pretty grim to have to cycle back into London in afternoon traffic! I do ride some loops or out-and-back routes but usually pick a cycleway to re-enter London later in the day – if one is available. And yes, I like the feeling of ‘getting somewhere’ at the end of a ride, rather than just turning up at the front door.
I like to plot routes along
I like to plot routes along OS 1:25,000 ‘yellow’ roads with the minimum on ‘orange’ and next-to-zero on ‘red’ routes. I don’t mind routes being longer. So, seeing the OS maps layer is essential in my opinion. Most others – Google is the worst – give no context information. I don’t use Komoot at all as its a completely closed system that you can’t access without an account.
I have an OS Maps subscription but for ease of use tend to plot in Garmin Connect with an OS Maps tab open so I can see the sort of roads I’m going along and make adjustments as necessary. I sometimes download basic routes from RideWithGPS or other ”open” sites and modify them, if I’m going somewhere I don’t have a basic knowledge of. I hate loops and usually plot an A to B route and get the train home.
Hope that helps!
I love my 520 plus, the
I love my 520 plus, the navigation is excellent and the screen is clear and easy to read. Navigation counts down to turns with plenty of warning. You can create your own routes in Garmin Connect on a PC, and sync them in a flash from the Garmin Connect app on your phone. Texts from my beloved appear on the screen as I’m riding (yes, I like that feature :-*. All in all, a bit of a learning curve to start with, but it’s been a great experience and leads me along routes I’d never have been able to find otherwise.
Yes, the rerouting is a bit slow, but frustratingly it’s always right when it tells me to make a u-turn :))