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Take it to your LBS now.
Take it to your LBS now. Don’t ride it.
I built a bike for my wife,
I built a bike for my wife, and used a compact crank. Reason? She has small hands finds it hard to use the front derailleur at all, because of the high force required to change up on to the big ring, so a triple was out of the question.In fact a high proportion of the more casual riders I see don’t even bother to push the levers in the ‘hard’ direction at all. Look around, you’ll see people stuck in 34×12 all over the place. I see at least three, men and women, on my commute. I’ve never seen them change gear at all. Presumably they got the bike new, clicked the levers in the easy direction on the first ride, then never bothered again.
So I guess my point is: unless she’s already totally au fait with gears, try 1×10 or 1×9 or single speed maybe.
They don’t make Celeste valve
They don’t make Celeste valve caps so I won’t have them on the Infinito.
There are some Canyons worth
There are some Canyons worth a look under £1000.
Campag, if you know Campag.
Campag, if you know Campag. There are some fabulous deals around ATM for Athena, especially from European shops because of the weak Euro.Oh, and you can pick up a new 52-36 Campag Chorus 2014 carbon crank on Ebay for £134 at the moment from seller rad-fuchs if you want to accessorise your Athena 😉
Good stuff, yes it is hard to
Good stuff, yes it is hard to start, the rest is easy.
I have a Rapha cap, it’s no
I have a Rapha cap, it’s no better than any other cap, but cost twice as much.I’m mostly wearing Ebay 2nd hand Castelli. It’s beautiful stuff, fits well, nicely finished and they have a long history in cycling sponsoring a lot of teams over the decades. And I’ve got Craft bibs (great) and a Craft commuter jacket (outstandingly durable & waterproof) and a few other jerseys that look nice.
I guess re. Rapha it’s the overbearing advertising that annoys me, that costs a _ton_ of money that they could spend on sponsorship or on technical development.
Re. Dunwich Dynamo, there are a few riders who are practiced in inverted snobbery who do it. I got heaps for riding a fluoro pink Planet X a few years back.
I mean the ‘shoe’, the thing
I mean the ‘shoe’, the thing that holds the pads, and the pads. This:>http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-ultegra-brake-shoes-6700/rp-prod61807
Go with the Fulcrum R3s, you won’t regret it, and you can easily swap the freehub for Campag when you win the lottery 😉
Pair of Fulcrum Racing 3s and
Pair of Fulcrum Racing 3s and you’ll feel like you have a new bike! Stiff, light, reactive. Hunt on Ebay, you can find them around the £200 mark in perfect condition.Next step, replace the standard brake pads with Ultegra pads in an alloy carrier. That will enormously improve braking. Should cost about £20.
Next, replace the crankset, it’s the heaviest part of the groupset, if you go for a 105 or up with outboard bearing cups you’ll feel the difference. The old 6600 Ultegra series are good value now, about £65ish on Ebay new.
You can gradually replace the whole groupset with second hand Ultegra 10s, wont break the bank.
That’s why you see roadies
That’s why you see roadies sat on the bar when waiting for something to happen.
I’ve used TotalCycling once
I’ve used TotalCycling once in the past, no probs at all.
If it’s shifting ok there’s
If it’s shifting ok there’s absolutely no need to change the cables. I’ve got over 2,500 miles of winter miles on my current set of cables and they still shift beautifully. No reason to change them.But the chain is pretty simple, use the chain tool to trim your new chain to the same length of the current one by pushing out the pin at the right point. That will give you a bit of feel for how much effort it will take to push the pin.
Then the only hard part is to hold the two ends of the new chain together while inserting the pin. My trick is to hold the chain on the big ring at the front so that the chain can’t move, then put the new pin through from the inside (important), then gently press it through.
You shouldn’t have more than a couple of hair’s breadth projecting on the inside when it’s right, break of the projecting guide section, then make sure the chain is not stiff at the joint. If it is, simply bend the chain a little, side to side, to free it up. If it’s still stiff, push the pin back fractionally using the tool in the other direction. You want to have the same amount of the pin visible as every other link, i.e. hardly any, and the same amount on both sides.
It’s not hard, and you have the chance by using the tool to make sure it’s right. You’ll feel triumphant once you’ve done it for the first time!
@Crosshouses:
Not within a
@Crosshouses:Not within a normal temperature range.
If you heat the ruler from 0C to 100C it will be 0.008″ longer, ie 1/128″ of an inch longer.
@Shep73 where are you finding
@Shep73 where are you finding Chorus cheaper than Ultegra?Best I’ve seen is Ultegra £472.95 (Ribble) and Chorus £768.73 (Bike-Discount.de).
It’s not just the ratio that
It’s not just the ratio that counts, it’s the absolute size too. Compare the reach and stack measurements with your current bike. If it’s within a range that you can adjust with seatpost, stem and seat forward-aft, then it’s good. If not, avoid.