Forum Replies Created
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I don’t know that frameset too well, but it looks like your brake cable is far, far too short. That could be placing extra stress on the frame. In fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s caused the crack.
Probably a bit too short, but the cable outer simply goes through the frame so there’s no stress from the brake cable on that point at all. You can move it freely with a finger. I think it’s the flexy ‘VCLS’ seatpost that’s putting stress on the thin top tube at that point.
The large hole so close to the junction is something I’ve seen cause cracking in other frames – e.g. the problem with some Whyte frames reported here last year.
barbarus wrote:
I’d love to hear your opinions on the cinelli, Matthew, I’ve been umming and ahhing about one for a while now. Sorry to hear about your canyon!OK, I’ll report back in due course.
Yes it’s sad about the Canyon – in retrospect having such a large hole in the top tube near the seatpost looks like a design failure…
OK, so I’ve bought a Cinelli
OK, so I’ve bought a Cinelli Experience 2016 frameset in the sales for £280. Exactly the same geometry within a few mm and only slightly heavier – so hopefully, a bit sturdier.
does anybody know if a site sales bikes online store is legit. They are based in Jakarta, Indonesia and have new old stock with nothing but top of the line bikes with nothing but bank transfers for payment but have a physical adress and phone numbers.Check streetview. Can be very illuminating 😉
I would suggest if you want
I would suggest if you want discs, wait until the technology has standardised. Right now there’s too many competing standards. You could end up with a frame that only takes outdated brakes. A bike built for you is for life, get it right.
Not sure why people do not like the Canyon, being as they are German built and GCN seem to like them. My local shop also mentioned that they might start using local shops rather than direct only.
Nothing wrong with the Canyon, lovely bike, but just not very special for a birthday present?
If you’re going Colnago and want to make it really special, I would choose one of the hand-made-in-Italy carbon Colnagos, i.e. the long series including Carbitubo, C40, C50, Extreme C, ExtremePower, EPS, EPQ, C59, or C60. The others are made in Taiwan to Colnago’s design, as are most carbon bikes these days.
Colnago will also make a C60 to your exact size if you wish. You’d need to go to the factory for a measure up. Now that sounds more special.
When my Mum died and left me a bit of cash I bought an EPS. Absolutely brilliant bike.
CXR94Di2 wrote:
With a £6k budget, buy all the bits yourself and save £2k. Or build a one off special with all bells and whistles for £6kWhat he said.
I see riders in London in
Commuting by bike in London I see riders in winter with the tiniest of rear lights, those £5 single LED jobs, barely visible at the best of times, even with new batteries. Wearing black. Good luck being seen on a busy road through a wet windscreen. Not that I expect motorists to pay any attention of course, but jeez.
A little lateral play (side to side of) less than 1 mm is ok (on shimano, don’t know about other brands. On the bottom jockey wheel it is about 3mm built in. If your top one is more than 1mm then replace it.Don’t you mean the top jockey wheel? Shimano upper jockey wheels are built with a soft lateral movement to make shifts smoother and less noticeable. If you want your Shimano setup to feel more positive, replacing the upper jockey wheel with one of those alloy aftermarket ones without lateral play makes a really noticeable difference, almost Campag-like.
The bottom jockey wheel doesn’t need lateral play, because it’s not forcing the chain across the sprockets in the cassette.
Dont believe the hype!
Dont believe the hype! Cyclists have ridden millions of miles on narrow rims without getting more or fewer p*nctures than they do on wide rims. I remember riding on wide rims back in the 60s getting p*nctures all the time. IMO it’s the quality of the tyre, and the sharpness of the pu*ncture-causing item, that’s important.
Snakebite p*nctures maybe, but unless you have a very wide rim and a comparatively narrow tyre you’ll always get something of a ‘lightbulb’ effect. It’s more of concern for aerodynamics.
Register it as stolen on
Register it as stolen on Immobilise.com and on BikeRegister.com
The police have access to the BikeRegister.com database so if they do find a bike they can match it with the owner.
Good luck with your search – it’s a really disheartening time for you.
Warm water and detergent. I
Warm water and detergent. I waxed the frame liberally before I built the bike up and it just beads off the frame. Then rinse and dry everything with kitchen paper or old t-shirts or pillow cases. Clean and lube chain. Works for me.
I have to wasg the bike in the bath as I live in a flat, so no pressure washing here. Still amazed that the Other Half doesn’t complain! Cleaning the bathroom afterwards helps.
I didn’t have the experience
I didn’t have the experience or know-how when I built up my first modern bike a few years back. Incredibly satisfying to learn and do it myself from the frame up. Most parts come with excellent instructions, plus there’s hundreds of useful instructional videos on YouTube. You’ll know your bike to a T by the time you finish! And be able to repair anything you do wrong.
If not, pretty much any decent bike shop can do it for you, though they will charge ‘corkage’ if you bring your own parts.
I had a fully chromed steel
I had a fully chromed steel frame resprayed by Ellis Briggs and they did a great job. Stove enamelled, and not even expensive. See http://www.ellisbriggscycles.co.uk/bike-respray/ for colours and prices or contact Paul Gibson on paul.gibson@ellisbriggs.co.uk
I had those Ultegra wheels
I had those Ultegra wheels and was distinctly unimpressed. They’re not light and they weren’t very stiff. They had a dull heavy feel to them.
I’d recommend you go for Fulcrum Racing 3, they’re much stiffer and lighter – both differences you’ll really feel on the bike. You can pull off the stickers if you don’t want them. They’re basically Campag Zondas but with more regularly-spaced spokes. Both are absolutely excellent wheels for the price and hold their value pretty well.