[matthewn5]

The Canyon VCLS (first

The Canyon VCLS (first version) seatpost in 27.2 is about as flexy as you can get. I’ve also got the Syntace Hyflex P6 in  31.6, which is brilliant. When I swapped it out the first time it was like night and day.

Basically if you’re not happy with one of these, you need to stand up over bumps (you should do that anyway). Otherwise, Rule V applies 😉

[matthewn5]

dottigirl wrote:

It’s not possible to see the inside of the tube, but I’m betting the cable has rubbed away at the inside of the tube. This has created a weak point. The insert may well have prevented that, and guided the cable to a more desirable angle.

If second hand, buyer beware. He’s bought a frame with an essential part missing, and there’s not much comeback to that – Canyon could say the part was initially present.

That’s a good theory, and you’re right about the cable being slightly short, but it doesn’t appear to be the case here.

Here’s some more photos:

There’s no visible reduction in thickness at the edge, and no sign of ‘polishing’ of the inner surface, looking at it under a bright light. There’s a tiny amount of polishing of the edge of the hole, if anything.

This shows that the section resting against the cable has actually gone inwards… and the section forward has gone outwards. You can feel it.

So all in all, I think it’s probably a design or manufacturing fault. With a straightedge you can see the top tube is slightly concave on the left and straight on the right. Probably always was stressed through the asymmetry.

BUT since I bought it second hand, and yes, ran it with a full outer instead of the plastic fitting, I don’t think Canyon are under any obligation.

I’m going to take it to Bikefix, see what they can do.

 

 

[matthewn5]

risoto wrote:

Sorry, but that  is why I absolutely hate disc brakes. I got some mechanical Avid BB7 brakes, so no fluids, and they are ALWAYS noisy – from the very beginning I bought the bike. Everything has been cleaned and adjusted several times. Goes away for a few rides. Then squeling terribly again. This happens in the dry  and the wet. I keep my bike clean and still..I am conviced that  the slightest dirt on rotors provoke it. When I clean them with alcohol it goes away for a while=1-2 rides. You can’t even see that the rotors are ‘dirty’ enough to provoke anything. I have never had a problem with caliper brakes. In the future I will avoid disc brakes like the plague! Same thing happened with my first bike with hydrolic disc brakes. that was Shimano and just as noisy.

I noticed this on the Dunwich Dynamo last year. Squealing brakes through quiet villages at night don’t make many friends.

[matthewn5]

beezus fufoon wrote:

matthewn5 wrote:

CXR94Di2 wrote:

Get someone to TIG weld it,  it will cost only a few quid.  In the London  area there must be loads of TIG welders.

Anyone know a good TIG welder in London?

bikefix in lamb’s conduit street  020 7405 1218 

Cheers I’ll give them a try!

 

superpython wrote:

‘d be wanting a replacement or a proper repair done at their expense, get a quote for a repair and if they refuse just state you’ll go to trading standards

Problem is I bought it second hand, so I have no consumer rights, according to that website…

 

[matthewn5]

So Canyon have come back

So Canyon have come back after a bit of to and fro, and said this:

You appear to be missing part 19 (A1022937) from this diagram and this will be causing the issue you are experiencing.

Part 19 is the little plastic insert that takes the back end of the brake cable.

That is NOT going to a). stop the frame cracking any more, and b). heal up the existing crack. It’s like Canyon are not even reading my messages.

In my view, it’s a design fail, the hole is just too big: 31mm long and 9mm wide.

[matthewn5]

Getting pressfit bbs out is

Getting pressfit bbs out is simplicity itself – use a tool like that or just tap on them with a blunt rod – not a screwdriver in case you damage the BB shell.

I made my own BB press with a length of threaded rod and two short lengths of wood. Worked for me. Total cost: about £20 including the cups.

I doubt the cables need replacing, You can usually wind up the frayed cable and stick a ferrule on it. They don’t come off if you squeeze them properly.

[matthewn5]

I built up my Bianchi Sempre

I built up my Bianchi Sempre Pro with full Chorus and Vision Metron 40s for less than £2.5k.

You can do so much better if you build it yourself and its loads more FUN!

[matthewn5]

I would never use a carbon

I would never use a carbon stem. Alloy ones are lighter and the failure mode is much more predictable. You can get a superlight European one from Syntace or Lightweight or Extralite etc that’s been properly tested and has a genuine CE sticker – and is lighter than any carbon stem. Wrong place to save weight!

[matthewn5]

CXR94Di2 wrote:

Get someone to TIG weld it,  it will cost only a few quid.  In the London  area there must be loads of TIG welders.

Anyone know a good TIG welder in London?

[matthewn5]

Respro doesn’t filter out PM2

A respro doesn’t filter out PM2.5s or NOx does it?

[matthewn5]

Hi all,

Hi all,

So Canyon has responded, suggesting that if I install the missing frame cable guide, it will be fine:

From you images it does appear that you are running this frame without one of the frame cable guides.

Please can you send me the serial number from the is bike? It should a 14 digit code, beginning with a letter, usually M or R, on a small sticker with a qr code.

Once I have this I could send you an exploded diagram of your bike and you could order the correct fitment for this cable to stop any unnecessary stress being applied to the frame.

 

As someone noted above, the fitting of the brake cable has nothing to do with the crack, since the cable run is made with a full outer and there’s less than the usual compressive stress on the top tube from brake cable forces. I suppose the ‘frame cable guide’ might conceivably strengthen the opening, but if it’s like the usual plastic fitting, I doubt it.

Comments?

[matthewn5]

+1 for Giordana, you hardly

+1 for Giordana, you hardly ever see it here but it’s brilliant quality and stylish.

Also may I put in a vote for Craft, their stuff is incredibly durable and not at all shouty. Still wearing a Craft rain jacket that I bought in September 2010 on my commute, it’s still waterproof and has worn well. And still happy with my Craft bibshorts, now 5 years old and barely showing any wear.

[matthewn5]

Jamin78 wrote:

Jamin78 wrote:

Thanks for the advice, I need to do more research… Much appreciated

With respect, don’t ‘do more research’. Go and test ride more bikes.

[matthewn5]

I found this absolutely

I found this absolutely perfect for me and a friend:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp

For a start, it recognises that there are different styles of fit for different folks.

Just follow the calculator and then see if you’re close.

[matthewn5]

freebsd_frank wrote:

matthewn5 wrote:

Yes it’s sad about the Canyon – in retrospect having such a large hole in the top tube near the seatpost looks like a design failure…

If you put a hole in a stressed component, then the hole will act as what’s called a “stress riser”. ie. you will get increased stresses about that hole.

The magnitude of the stresses is difficult to model or quantify and thus are best avoided or you can end up with a frame like that pictured above where the material has failed.

If you want a frame that might last, then avoid frames that have had holes drilled in them.

Exactly, nothing wrong with external cables in my view! Last for ever.

At least that big hole should have had a stiffening lip – as the front cable ‘hole’ does have.

[Author]

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