Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Here’s the formulae in the
Here’s the formulae in the cells, feel free to have a play, improve, etc. One day I may get around to making an online version, but it seems to work in Excel for the few times I use it.
I am considering a Ti N=1, what bike did you get? Been looking at a number of brands from Planet X to Vaaru and then some and all sound fantastic in their marketing blurb.Without wishing to hijack the steel thread, I was choosing a Ti bike end of last year and ended up with a Vaaru MPA, great frameset, highly recommended.
Not something I’ve ever
Not something I’ve ever attempted, although I’d investigate whether it’s actually possible before sizing up new bearings, buying a new tool, etc.
1. Possibly the tyres had
1. Possibly the tyres had some punctures which were sealed, and maybe still had tiny thorns, flints, glass, etc in there. Removing the tyres has potentially disturbed the holes and the sealant plug and/or foreign object debris has fallen out. Reinflation has subsequently pushed fluid through the hole and resealed.
2. I wouldn’t bother with a tube, pump it up and see how you go, possibly remove the tyres again and clean out any solidified sealant and refill.
YMMV etc.
Quite why Facetube would
Quite why Facetube would think you’d be interested in cycle coaching in NZ I don’t know. Big data eh? Isn’t it great?
No. I don’t have a Facebook
No. I don’t have a Facebook account.
What does “a bit old” mean? Is there an obverse of “a bit young” and if so, what does that mean? 🙂The highest gear of professional racer folk just 2 or 3 decades ago was 52X13 (a ratio of 4:1). 48X13 is not a lot lower. Will the OP be riding at race pace (25- 27mph) on the not-climbing parts of that route? Or will he go a bit slower (not much) and admire the scenery?
Now, must I explain also that freewheeling downhill crouched over the bars with the knees tucked into the frame, rather than flailing about pedalling, will actually make you go faster than if you turn the cogs?
Ah yes, “a bit old” m’lud, I believe it’s used as vernacular for “a little tiresome”
Regarding your gearing, I bow to your own experience, however mine is that my gravel bike (48×11) will spin out on descents much more readily than my road bikes (mostly 52×11), so again, if it were me doing the ride, I would want the taller gearing for descents and maintaining a decent flat speed with sensible cadence, and the shorter gearing for Stelvio. I would live without the close ratio cogs.
Wow, I never had you down as
Wow, I never had you down as a chap for one of these new-fangled synthetic contrivances! ???
… and install a 13-32 cassette with a 48/34 chainset. No silly big gears are needed as downhill and flat bits are where you need active rest in preparation for the next monster hill.A slight flaw in that plan is that OP is riding from Monaco to Zürich, those ratios might get a bit old on much of the remaining -600km.
I did this in 2019, aged 50,
I did this in 2019, aged 50, 85kg and FTP of 235W.
It wasn’t a cycling trip as such (long story, family holiday tour via France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and back via France – the quid pro quo for my wife insisting on going to Venice was us entering Italy via the tunnel near Livigno, a stay in Bormio and me putting my bike in the van), I was bike fit at the time as just 3 months before, I had completed the multi-day N2 Challenge, a north->south 738km traversal of Portugal in 5 days.
My bike had 52-36 and 11-32, this was not so much in preparation for this climb, more that at home in Dorset, the local climbs are fairly challenging. However the sheer length of Passo dello Stelvio from the Bormio side, if I were you I would prefer all the help I can get. Although most of it is around 6-7%, it’s over 20km distance, with a short 12%ish bit in the middle, and then the last few km are around 10%.
So my advice would be take the 30, leave the OPSW at home and enjoy the ride. Maybe even sell the OSPW and put the funds towards a 11-32 cassette.
Anyway, that’s just my $0.02 worth, buona fortuna and all that and let us know how you get on.
Here’s a gratuititous photo op – top one is a view back from around 2/3 of the way up, and the bottom one is the descent that awaits you if you’re going over the top (I rode back to Bormio, if I do it again, I’d want to do both sides!)
Probably because of the
Possibky because of the additional battery load maybe? I’ve the next best thing, the Varia RCT715 which, when paired with a GPS head unit, gives time/date/position/speed overlays on the video. I’ve had 7+ hours running time when set to record on radar vehicle approach and while it seems expensive, if one adds up the sum of the parts (decent light, camera and radar), it’s not too bad. I’ve given up on my old GoPros (Hero 4 & Hero 4 Session) as the battery runtime is just not enough. Like others on this thread, I’m also in the market for a decent front camera to go with the rear.
Thanks and yes, the bottom
Thanks and yes, the bottom photo is the S-Works Venge stem with the proprietary out-front mount, so similar to your Zipp setup. It has a GoPro mount on the bottom, and then I used a GoPro <-> Garmin male quarter turn mount adapter to take the top of the Ravemen FR160 light (also works with the Fabric Lumaray / Lumaray v2 and the old style original Garmin HL500 headlight).
The mount adapter came from eBay a couple of years ago, and the original listing is no longer there. However, this looks very similar:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166026486880
Also try searching for “Trigo TRP1936”, just make sure you get the correct side of the GoPro mount.
Yes.
Yes.
Whether you need a long or
Whether you need a long or short cage derailleur is down to capacity, for example on a 2x setup of 11-32 & 52-36, subtract the low from high in each and add them, you get 32-11=21 and 52-36=16, the sum is 37. RD-8000GS is 39 so that works. With your 1x of 11-36, so subtract 11 from 36, it’s 25, so a short cage will work, you’d just need to size the chain correctly.
Good shout. Possibly also
Good shout. Possibly also some alternative chainring bolts and some spacers if keeping the existing crank, to compensate for the lack of a second ring. I did similar recently when building a 1x hillclimb bike. SJS and/or eBay are places to look.