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Interesting to know how you
Interesting to know how you get on with the bear bell. I’ve considered a Timber! bell, but not sure how well it would work on a road bike vs MTB.
This is from a few years ago.
This is from a few years ago. If my average speed had been a smidge quicker, I would have been stood exactly where the car is. Saved by being a bit unfit.
Call me superstitious, but I don’t use that crossing anymore!
If her only reason for having
If her only reason for having a car is the weekly supermarket shop, she needs to work out how much she would save by shopping online and getting it delivered.
Bet she could switch from Aldi to Ocado and still make a huge saving.
If you get the back wheel
If you get the back wheel spinning up fast with the cranks on the stand, then stop the cranks you should see the chain droop if this is the problem.
It was a weird one to fault find as it wouldn’t happen when I was coasting at my usual pace, only when I’d got some speed up and stopped pedalling. Freehub still worked, but there was just that bit of drag that was enough to cause the chain to go slack.
I’ve had something similar
I’ve had something similar with a failed freehub, but thankfully didn’t get spat off.
It only started to happen when the speed picked up, the pawls were not allowing the freehub to spin when I eased off the power on the cranks (it didn’t completely not spin, but there was significant drag). This caused the upper part of the chain to go slack between the cassette and front mech. It felt a bit weird, I looked down and saw the chain slopped on the chain stay and dangerously close to the rear wheel spokes.
It’s possible you had something similar, but were unlucky enough that the chain jammed the rear wheel. Hope you heal quickly.
could be caliper alignment?
could be caliper alignment? worth unbolting the caliper and re-adjusting just to see if it makes a difference.
try a different pad compound? sintered?
try a *very* small amount of high temp grease thinly applied to the back of the pads where they contact the pistons.
I use cycliq cameras front
I use cycliq cameras front and back. they’ve been reliable for me and of all the options I’ve tried, the least faff.
I did have to replace the fly6 battery after 18months (approx 4000 miles) as it started to just cut out mid ride without warning. I had used it a lot though and in all weathers.
I’ve not noticed any scratching of the lens, but I do run mudguards in the winter (you need to with a post mount camera or it’ll soon be obscured by filth).
Don’t engage. There’s a
Don’t engage. There’s a reason they are driving like a tw@t – it’s because they are one. You are unlikely to change their behaviour by remonstrating. Some people are just nutters that cannot be reasoned with.
As much as a faff charging cameras is, it’s the only proper way to counter this behaviour. Glad you are ok.
I tend to ride just left of
I tend to ride just left of the centre of the lane too (the middle has too much debris).
I started doing this after a few incidents where I reckon my moving from secondary to primary prior to a pinch point had been taken as an offensive ‘up yours’ type gesture by the ignorant motorist behind me.
I think just being in that position when I come into their view is less likely to provoke a reaction. I then purposely move over to secondary when it’s safe for them to overtake. I’m not impeding anyone by doing this.
Whether it’s ‘you don’t pay road tax’ abuse or a close pass, it all boils down to ignorance; of how the roads are funded, of how to overtake safely. But there’s nothing in the highway code about why cyclists ride in primary and the overtaking guidance is woefully inadequate and open to interpretation.
So if a government advertising campaign coupled with changes to the highway code, could communicate this effectively, then I think it could improve things. I think it would also have to be aligned with presumed liability being brought in and more effective enforcement from the police; as you still need to tackle the few motorists that really do actively hate cyclists or are just reckless nutters.
But it’s probably as likely to happen as the gov ‘build build build’ spinitiative including segregated cycling infrastructure.
this approach hasn’t been
this approach hasn’t been mentioned yet
sounds like you need a good
sounds like you need a good quality double kick stand
He did talk about hand
He did talk about hand washing two days prior to that:
But it is an example of complacency in the face of a largely unknown danger and who knows if he followed his own advice.
Just like the 2m rule merely reduces the risk a bit, but would not ordinarily constitute an effective safety measure (can you imagine a workplace safety assessment passing that off as acceptable practise?).
A lot of these measures are better than nothing, but largely a compromise given the situation with the lack PPE meaning little else can be done.
At this present time, I would look favourably on anyone taking PPE precautions for either the benefit of themselves and/or others.
In countries where mask
In countries where mask wearing is more culturally accepted, the rate of infection seems to be lower.
The thing I think is a bit of a red herring is the hand washing. The PM was a great advocate of that, but didn’t seem to help him avoid getting it. Sure, it’s better to have good hand hygiene, but this virus is mainly airborne. It’s the only way it could have spread so quickly.
If you have a P3 mask at home, you are not depriving the NHS. They are nearly impossible to source now, so if you see anyone wearing one, it’s unlikely they’ve deprived the NHS of it.
It’s not hard to use them properly and ensure you have a good fit. Even the surgical type masks have been shown to have some benefit in protecting others.
I think we are going to have to get comfortable with the sight of people wearing masks. It may even become mandated.
I should say this sort of
I should say this sort of mask will protect the wearer from aerosol bourne viruses, but not anyone else, as the out breath goes straight through a one way valve with no filter at all (sometimes with a dribble of condensation to boot – nice). I guess you could wear a buff over it to mitigate some of that.
You can ride in it. It’s noticable but I don’t find it uncomfortable if I go at a steady pace, both in terms of additional breathing effort and temperature/fit.
In the winter, when it’s proper cold, it’s actually more comfortable to wear it than not. Kind of a https://coldavenger.com but with filtering.
I’ve tried all sorts of masks
I’ve tried all sorts of masks over the past year and a bit. I’ve got a narrow airway and it doesn’t like cold air or diesel fumes.
I basically found that anything other than a P3 respirator didn’t filter out fumes properly. Also, if the mask is loose fitting, then the moist air you breathe out ends up fogging up any eyewear (with the exception of ski goggles – yes I’ve tried it).
They also get moisture inside of them after a while, so you really need a proper rubber P3 jobby with one way valves to keep the filters dry. Then after your ride, you can just pop the filters out and give the mask a good wash in warm soapy water ready for next time.
I’ve settled on the Trend Stealth as the best one. It’s upper fabric strap fits well under a helmet. The vent port is at the base of the mask, so your out breath is directed away from eyewear. It is quite good at allowing condensation to purge from the lower valve, but also has a drain plug you can pull out. The filters are covered with a protective plastic guard, which offers some protection from rain etc.
But you’ll be lucky to find anything in stock at the moment.
https://www.trenddirectuk.com/stealth-ml-air-stealth-half-mask-small-medium-apf20
