Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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I’ve got the carbon Prime
I’ve got the carbon Prime Primevera bars and they’re great. I doubt that the aero style gives me any noticeable benefit, but they are comfy and look fast. I wouldn’t bother getting metal aero bars unless you’re a real speed demon on a tight budget.
I think there used to be some
I think there used to be some vague guidance about 15mph being the speed limit, but it’s not legislated at all. 15mph sounds like a reasonable speed, so if you’re going quicker then it’s best to stick to the roads (despite what Welsh boy says).
It’s probably best to not respond to intolerant motorists, but you could always say that you don’t want to run into any children using the cycle-path and that you hope the motorist is as considerate to vulnerable traffic and pedestrians.
Well if the photo on the report is anything to go by it looks pretty unsuitable for cycling, in the summer months I imagine dogs, kids with ice creams and no spatial awareness, families walking as a group, people in wheelchairs etc.A few people on bikes is one thing but it is not the place for training rides if that is what has happened.
What you’ve got to be really careful of is when there’s dogs with ice creams being chased by kids.
I think the theory is
I think the theory is probably more interesting (in a nerdy way) that the actual experiment as it’s a bit underwhelming.
Here’s a handy explainer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcqZHYo7ONs
or
How can you tell whether lenses are Polarised?I have a drawer full of sunnies some of which were sold as Polarised but the labels have come off and I don’t remember which is which.
If you’ve got a device with an LCD display like a watch or calculator (I think phones will work too), then look at it through a lens and then turn the lens – if it’s polarised the display (which is polarised) will turn black. Similarly, if you’ve got one known polarised lens, then putting that in front of another lens and turning it will also make it block light at certain angles.
Another way is to find somewhere that there’s lots of glare from a wet road or lake or something horizontal and again, turn the unknown lens and at certain angles it will block the glare.
A “fun” trick if you’ve got three polarised lenses is to demonstrate how light is quantum and not classical – put the three lenses so that they overlap at different angles. Where there’s no overlap, lots of light can pass; where there’s two lenses overlapping hardly any light will pass, but where all three overlap, there’ll be more light transmitted than with just two overlapping.
I second what Joe Totale said
I second what Joe Totale said. There’s two main types – 2 hole MTB (SPD) and 3 hold road bike (SPD-SL).
I use single-sided SPD pedals (they’re Shimano road/touring style) on my road bike as I find that being able to walk in my shoes more important than other considerations. I’ve previously used double-sided MTB pedals on my road bike and they work great too.
I recently got a pair of Bont MTB shoes which are great – you pop them in the oven for a bit and then mould them to your feet (use socks and wait for them to not be too hot). They’re also a great combination of being okay to walk in and very stiff (good for pedalling efficiency).
By the way, clipping into pedals isn’t that much of an issue once you’ve used them for a while, but un-clipping is the thing that you really need to practise so it becomes second nature. There’s nothing funnier than seeing someone come to a stop, then slowly fall over to the side as they’ve forgotten how to get their foot free.
You’re talking yourself out
You’re talking yourself out of it now.
The fact that you’re asking
The fact that you’re asking the question means that you really want it.The question is what else would you spend that same money on that you’d value more than a nice new jacket?
I agree with Welsh boy – as long as the money is disposable (don’t get into debt/more debt for it) then why not?
My most expensive clothing is an old Gore-Tex rain jacket that was just over £200 a long time ago. Unfortunately, I came off on the “Cheesegrater” bridge by Bristol Temple Meads Station and ripped a small hole in the sleeve after only a week or two of owning it. Luckily it was only a small rip so the jacket was still useable and I’ve got lots of use out of it.
Maybe it was a mythtake
Maybe it was a mythtake
In your first link (the
In your first link (the “Stamp out” letter), I chuckled at this sentence:They ride at excessive speeds on the grass and prohibited footpaths where they can come across cattle, ponies and, of course, decent people out for a walk in the country.
It was the implication that cyclist are not decent people.Also interesting that it was a call for tougher enforcement etc BEFORE the inevitable accident rather than actually seeing what the problems are.
If the tape’s a bit too wide,
If the tape’s a bit too wide, it can still be made to work, but you just need to make sure that it’s applied tightly and very central. The main problem with the tape covering part of the walls is that you’re more likely to damage it when installing/removing tyres (or at least I’m quite prone to that).I’d recommend getting plenty of rim tape in a couple of different sizes so that you can apply and re-apply if necessary and hopefully return the unused size.
I’ve had a minor air leak
I’ve had a minor air leak from around the valve (similar to yours by the sound of it) and I did just leave it for the sealant to fix. However, that ended up with lots of little balls of latex rolling around inside the rims which was a bit annoying. I did manage to get rid of most of the latex by lots of shaking of the front wheel (not on the bike) with the valve removed and the hole at the bottom.I ended up re-taping the rim when I next changed the tyre and I was careful to ensure the tape was applied nice and smoothly (I’ve never bothered using an inner tube to fix the rim tape – sounds a bit unnecessary).
With rim tape, you need to be careful when you make the hole for valve – don’t use a knife, but instead something that can make a round hole (I think I used a barbecue skewer). When you fit the valve, it can help if you push the valve snugly against the rim (maybe take a little rubber mallet to it as well). Don’t bother with additional o-rings on the inside as they’re unlikely to help. As Joe Totale says, you don’t need to go more than finger tight for the valve collar/o-ring – too tight and the o-ring will be damaged.
So, I forsee some new rim tape in your future. Before applying it, give the rim bed a good clean (isopropyl alcohol is good for that) and just concentrate on getting it smooth and tight with no air bubbles.
My experience is that when the rim tape is applied correctly, you should be able to inflate the tyre without using sealant and it should ‘ping’ into place, though that will also depend on the tyre and using enough lubricant/washing-up liquid to allow the tyre bead to move easily.
Looks like there’s a few KOPS
Looks like there’s a few KOPS advocates on here, so it’s time for the late, great Sheldon Brown: https://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html (although written by Keith Bontrager)Peted76 – 10cm is way too big an increment.
10mm isn’t a big difference
10mm isn’t a big difference in stem lengths, so I’d try a 90mm one.However, I’d be more likely to play with the saddle position first – try moving the saddle forwards and experiment with the height a bit (measure the setup first so you can easily get back to your starting setup). If you don’t have much success with changing your position, then the best bet is to pay for a proper bike fit though I don’t know if they’re still in business at the moment.
Nat Jas Moe – I’ve heard those recommendations before, but although they’re a handy rule of thumb, they don’t take into account different body shapes (e.g. long thigh bones) and flexibility.
I’ve been experimenting with tubeless and am becoming quite frustrated with the constant attention they seem to need. I’m using Conti 5000s on one set of wheels and Hutchinson on another. Here’s what I learned. 1. Mavic rims need Mavic tyres, or Hutchinsons – because no others will sit; 2. Fitting valves onto asymetric rims takes patience; 3. Rim tape may come unseated which means you have to take a goo-filled tyre off, clean everything, refit it, reseat the tyre and refill with sealant, 4. If you get a cut in your tyre and you’re not carrying a plug then see 3. 5. Given the above, you’re pretty much obliged to check your tyre pressure daily.That said, they do ride well and give you a certain amount of (perhaps misplaced) confidence that you won’t get a puncture (unless its a serious one).
PS: There may be an assumption that this is user error on my part, given I’ve had problems with all my tyres – but they have been fitted and refitted by bike mechanics I trust….
I fitted some new tubeless tyres onto my MTB yesterday and had trouble with the asymmetric rear wheel. I checked the old valve (I was swapping in some Milkit valves) and it had the relevant spacer thing that fits over the valve and provides a stable surface for the o-ring to seal against – that did the trick.
With rim tape, I’ve had issues when I’ve damaged it with tyre levers whilst trying to remove/replace tyres, but otherwise it shouldn’t be an issue.