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As far as I know, non-QXL Q
As far as I know, non-QXL Q-Rings are about 10% (or at least I think the old 5-bolt ones I have are) – they might be worth a look. Biggest difference I noticed, which I wasn’t really expecting, was out of the saddle – felt much smoother, weirdly obvious in the first few rides. In the saddle, seemed slightly ‘better’ – easier going over the top of the stroke – particularly under load, at least based on how my knees felt after hilly rides compared with previously.. which was the reason I tried them.
I was looking at the routes which are similar to the Radonnee course from hereRound the Isle of Wight cycle route (aka Isle of Wight Randonnee)
yep thats the route I see most people use, and you just follow little island signs clockwise or anticlockwise. But I guess the point is they are still mostly A roads, and probably full of mainland visitors this time of year, its not a quietway route, or designed as a cyclist only route, you will be sharing the roads with traffic & certainly western side of the Island they run out of alternate options, but thats like I commented before, always been my view that it can be a bit intense/fraught on those roads and maybe the trick is go off season.
Aye, not going to be completely traffic free for sure, and it does get busy over there, but it is mostly non-main roads going by the GPX and map overlay. Only real sections on the A-roads I can see are out of Cowes to Wootton Bridge and Brook to Bouldnor (tiny bit around Chale too) – finger in the air, 20ish % ? Dunno, anyway the rest appears to be B-roads and smaller. I get there might be some interaction with grockles (and locals maybe) but that seems a different proposition than the horror described – i’ll hopefully find out later in the year one way or another.
not sure what to say.we followed the signs, which inevetiably meant a busy main road. so we tried finding alternative routes where the map indicated it was possible/convenient, with mixed success.
(the more we ignored this map : https://www.heritage-house.co.uk/isleofwightcyclingmaps – the better. arguably, it was worth buying the map to see where not to go)
I was looking at the routes which are similar to the Radonnee course from here
Round the Isle of Wight cycle route (aka Isle of Wight Randonnee)
I thought the ‘Round the Island’ routes were designed, in part, to avoid the busy roads….those parts are very small…
Not according to the GPX tracks for it, and as you apparantly avoided using it i’m not sure how you know otherwise – have I mis-read what you said originally ?
I might be missing something,
I might be missing something, I don’t know the route, but if you were looking for “something a little more relaxed” why did you hit the main roads ? I thought the ‘Round the Island’ routes were designed, in part, to avoid the busy roads….
Also…
Also…
- Yes the Flow is not very accurate – it’s a good value way into trainers with feedback but take the figures with a bag or two of salt.
- It’s not Zwift that calculates the power – that’s just broadcast from the trainer brake unit.
- Strava is not stingy as such, it’s just that it’s only a rough estimate based on insufficient data and it seems to get worse as the variation in the course increased.
- Outdoor vs indoor power will almost certainly make a difference – typically the actual (accurate) outdoor power figures are higher than indoors for a number of reasons, Google is your friend there
Bottom line though is the training is having a good effect and sounds like you’re enjoying the benefits. Don’t sweat the numbers – although if you want an estimate then Strava on a time-trail effort (similar to what you posted) with little wind or elevation variation would be not a million miles off, or for outside, the classic ‘ride up a hill, time it, weigh everything then calculate average power’ is a decent measure.
..and have a look for Token
..and have a look for Token Ninja
Lezyne Mega C / XL –
Lezyne Mega C / XL might be worth a look – good reviews, ridiculous battery life and navigation. Widely available around ÂŁ150, or less if you’re a British Cycling member.
It’s not really something you
It’s not really something you’d want to leave on the bike, but if you’re using an Android phone you can (or could) let people track your location via Google itself
https://support.google.com/maps/answer/7326816?co=GENIE.Platform%3DAndroid&hl=en
What about carbon wheels, I can brake plenty fine on carbon at speed, funnily enough the pros can manage it from ridiculously high speeds and it’s the traction of the tyres and the skill of the rider that is the limiting factor, as it is in the wet.You can stop with most anything, the pros generally seem to think they offer an advantage in the wet.
What’s not to like about discs, having to buy into a completely new system, new frame, no interchangability to anything you already own in terms of wheels, basically a shit ton of money, ugly looks, squealing brakes regularly, heavier bikes.Interchangability depends on how many bikes you already have, and what type they are. You might a collection, but many people will be getting or exchanging a singular bike, in which case the point is moot. Also what you might wish for in the future shouldn’t really be hold back by what you had in the past. My old 5-speed free-wheels were incompatible with my current 10- and 11-speed gear, so what. My old caliper brakes from the ’70s were nominally compatible and I couldn’t care less – they stopped me but they were utter shite in comparison to stuff from the last few eyars and I wouldn’t have them a bike for any money.
Ugly ? Opinion, I generally prefer them – from an engineering point of view most caliper brakes apart from Campagnolo Delta brakes (and they were functionally terrible) look like horrible post-design bodges bolted on to a otherwise clean frame, but that’s my own view. Anyway, who cares what other people think, there’s lovely looking bikes with many types of brake.
More expensive ? Yeah, difference is going down but they are.
Squealing ? Sometimes, sometimes a bit more than rim.. generally not with decent hydraulics.
Heavier ? Yeah, seems to be in the order of a couple of hundred grammes or so these days. So what.
Advantages ? I’d say so, but you’ve not mentioned those areas.
Choose what you like but discs offer nothing significant over rim brakes for road bikes, not worth it in any way shape or form.As you say, it’s up to the individual – and what they consider is ‘worth it’ to them.
Your LBSs are only partially wrong… Rear derailleurs are very much compatible between 5800 and a 7000, however front mechs are not.Odd – Shimano list the ST-5800/6800 and ST-R70xx/80xx/90xx shifters as cross compatible with the FD-5800/6800 and FD-R7000/8000/9×00 front mechs
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com/3.7?acid=C-455&cid=C-453
What’s the issue ?
As far as I know, the cable
As far as I know, the cable pull is the same for all Shimano 11-speed road gear – and the cog pitch certainly hasn’t changed from 5800 to R7000 – so can’t see an issue on the face of it (e.g. the derailleur shift ratio will be the same).
Edit : Just checked and seems they are compatible according to Shimano specs
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com/3.7?acid=C-454&cid=C-453
OldRidgeback wrote:
The banter, the regulars, the (ongoing) helmet debate all help to make this site what it is.Alas I fear you’re right …. đ
Just ignore it.
Just ignore it.
I feel the need to point out that these rims are not toroidal (one r not two). The cross section of a toroid is a circle not a wheel well!The cross section, perpendicular to the axis of rotation, of a toroid is not a circle in general, it is for a torus.
So Zipp don’t know what a toroid is either.If they don’t, it would seem that they’re not the only ones.