Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Another old Garmin user,
Another old Garmin user, current one I’ve had for 6 something years I think, well used, working fine just a few changes of battery. The plastic centre part is easy to wipe down and the strap goes in the wash every now and then. I’m happy, if/when it does l dies I would probably try a Coospo or Magene MHR10 – heard generally pretty positive feedback about both.
Let me know if you want some GPX files for rides in this part of Wales.Would love to see some of those if that’s possible, especially with the Monmouth->Raglan quiet roads – just over the bridge and looking for more routes around there and Wye/Tintern .. cheers
I think a lot of the point is that speed isn’t really the be-all and end-all from the GCN videos – and that article wasn’t written by them. The GCN video is remarkably even-handed and interesting, especially in the conclusions and discussion about what could be done more or better.I didn’t watch the video, just read that summary. I’ll give the video a go later on when it’s convenient to use headphones (I much prefer reading articles than watching a video). But yeah, most people buying disc brakes aren’t concerned about a few seconds difference in performance.
Absolutely, worth watching the video too I reckon, there’s a lot of important points missed by the article (plus dubious quoting…)
Edit : I owe the article writers an apology, they didn’t halve the descent time – that was my mis-reading of their discussion about compensating for carbon rims – the bent of the article was still mis-leading even without that IMO.
It might be flawed, but I didn’t see any other direct comparisons of performance between brakes (I didn’t spend long looking though). I would have thought that GCN would be more interested in promoting disc brakes, so the bias surprises me.I think a lot of the point is that speed isn’t really the be-all and end-all from the GCN videos – and that article wasn’t written by them. The GCN video is remarkably even-handed and interesting, especially in the conclusions and discussion about what could be done more or better.
@BTBS – I just did a quick search on performance difference between rim and disc brakes and found GCN’s testing that concluded that rim brakes are indeed faster. (Summary here: https://www.honeybikes.com/blog/2018/3/25/disc-brake-vs-rim-brake-performance-on-road-bikes)However, for me the most important difference between rims and discs is the wet weather performance.
That article has cropped up a couple of times now and is ummm – interesting. Aside from the acknowledged looseness in the tests, they’ve stitched together some of the timing from the GCN video, doubled it up, and concluded that the lighter (rim-braked) bike is faster uphill. Then, on the descents, they found that the heavier (disc-braked) bike was marginally slower downhill in the dry (0.5%) but significantly faster in the wet – enough to better the deficit from climbing – so they said the rim-brake bike had carbon rims and must have been about twice as bad downhill as one with aluminium rims. So they halved the advantage on the heavier bike and tad-dah – the lighter rim-braked bike wins !!! They did at least admit that there are other areas to consider rather than straight ‘speed’ and I think it’s possibly safe to say from the language in the article that it’s the answer they might have prefered … 🙂
Ah – based on the cassette I
Ah – based on the cassette I thought we were talking 11-speed. The original suggestions you mention get my vote for sure if the cash is there.
Or a very simple super-compact AbsoluteBlack 46/30 + 11-30 cassette?I’d have an AbsoluteBlack 46/30 oval in a heart-beat – lovely bit of kit. Not sure of the RD and the 30T (or 32T) – might work as-is or with the old gag of B-tension screw backwards or might need a longer cage, not sure, not played with SRAM stuff so couldn’t comment. With Shimano, plenty of folk have run 30/32T on a short cage so you may well be fine. Hit Google and YouTube for that I reckon
Depending on what rear mech
Depending on what rear mech you already have, i’d doubt that you’d need a RoadLink with an 11-34T – more likely a tweak with the B-tension screw if anything. WiFli should work fine, worth checking here and elsewhere with folk that have done exactly that – i’ve been running 11-34 with a Shimano medium cage (GS) RD-6800 for over a year now, works brilliantly, didn’t even need to adjust the B-tension screw.
Gosh!So this would not be good?:
That’s an X-Actuation mech, so I would guess that it’s not going to play nicely with an Exact Actuation shifter.
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/nx-1×11-x-horizon-rear-derailleur#specs
SRAM derailleurs should be interchangeable – they all use the same pull I believe (SRAM call it Exact Actuation)OP might need to be careful choosing the RD – i’d looked at this before and it’s not as simple as I thought. Seems to be that SRAM 10 and 11-speed road RD/shifter is compatible with 10-speed MTB, but not 1x 11-speed. The first lot is Exact Actuation (1.3:1) and the second X-Actuation (1.12:1). From a MTBR forum post I had
Exact Actuation (Road 10 & 11sp, Mtn 10sp) is 3.1mm while X Actuation (Mtn 11sp) is 3.48mmAll a bit confusing IMO….
Each to their own, can’t
Each to their own, can’t stand loud road hubs myself – apart from the actual noise and the ‘look at me !!’ element, it upsets the engineering part of my head. Useful on shared paths and tracks mind, especially early in the morning…
Sellers shouldn’t accept buyer arranged couriers – it’s a well known scam techniqueNever say never – it’s also useful on occasion, sometimes the only option.
@ fukawitribethis is valid for regular GP5000.
TL version is wider, at leaset this holds for 25 mm version as shown here:
Ach – mea culpa – completely forgot we were talking about TL versions.
I assume that new 28 mm GP5000TL will be effectively ~29-30 mm. This means +6 mm to external width of my rim 23 mm. Probably behaviour of such combination is not ideal compared to 25 mm version (effectively 27 mm). Also Propel Advance Disk 2018 frame is specified for 28 mm (MAX), therefore I am not sure about left clearance.Continental appear to have finally sorted their hilarious tyre width measurements, and the GP5000s look ~pretty much on spec, at least a lot closer than the GP4000s, e.g.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-comparison#sizeweight
Welsh boy wrote:
So these magical cranks increase your gearing AND make it easier to ride up hills too!Can I interest you in some L shaped cranks or a handful of magic beans?
Still think we’re talking cross purposes here – have a butchers at the link below, play with the crank length and have a look at the Average Pedal Force and Effective Pedal Force as you do.