Forum Replies Created
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abudhabiChris wrote:The above
The above is correct – Open Corsas are just clincher versions of tubular tyres so they will work.I use them and love them – they are a sweet ride, as good as a tubular especially when paired with latex tubes. The SC with the tan sidewalls are also beautiful.
However… what are you using them for?
Open Corsas are not what I would recommend for general everyday use.
The puncture resistance is average but in the choice between supple, fast and durable you only get to pick two. I use mine only on my racing wheels and I would expect to go through two sets in a year.
If you want to use Vittoria (they are my favourite tyres) I would suggest the TriComp or QuadComp for a good everyday/training tyre.
Second everything said about Open Corsas, but Tricomp and Quadcomp ?.. not familiar with them, not thinking about Vredestein are you ? (Tricomps are also lovely supple tyres, not tried the Quattro).
Vittoria Open Paves are also a good bet for general use tyres in the UK IMO, lovely ride and very grippy with pretty decent puncture resistance.
crikey wrote:The fuss about
The fuss about Speedplay can be found relatively easily on the net, it was not a great example of good customer relations.I’m aware of the spat with the guy doing a business with Speedplays and non-OEM bearings and parts – it was shit behaviour on Speedplays part in some ways (I have a certain sympathy in one regard, one only), and in particular how they handled it. It still doesn’t stop the statement that they sue people who maintain their pedals FUD.
2 Wheeled Idiot wrote:shimano
shimano pedals to suit your budget, adjust float using cleats and tension is built in.
not speedplay coz they have tried to sue their users that try to modify (lighten) or service their own pedals :/ (also the cleats are bloomin expensive, difficult to walk in and clog with mud nd dirt if you even think about putting your foot down.)Nice to have other suggestions for the OP, and Shimano pedals are great value for money, but please leave the stupid FUD at home.
Speedplay don’t sue people for servicing their pedals (they’re very proud you can pretty much maintain them and update them for ever), the cleats are reasonably pricey as that’s where the mechanism is but are fine to walk in (use KeepOnKovers anyway as it keeps them in pristine knick) and clogging is not really an issue in road conditions (certainly nothing like “even think[ing] about putting your foot down”).
I’d also recommend
I’d also recommend Speedplays, nothing really compares to them for float and they are staggeringly easy to clip into (and double sided). There is a adjustment for the amount of float with Speedplay Zeros but nothing for release pressure, not that i’ve particularly wanted it – they seem to have that pretty much bang on IMO. Not cheap mind, but I don’t think i’ll go back to anything else.. if I did it would probably be Time iClic2 or Xpresso – good clip in, decent amount of float with a small but nice feeling resistance, big ol’cleats which wear quickly though. All personal opinion of course.
BBB wrote:Slight
Slight misunderstanding. When I first replied I used external widths as this is what I believe most of people are more familiar with that, then I started quoting internal dimensions to be more precise.
I realise how wide “proper” Mtb rims/wheels are as I wouldn’t use anything narrower than 35mm myself but the ones within OP’s budget typically are ERTO 622-19C…Aye, 622-19 would be great with 28mm tyres which sound a good choice for the OP.
As for Cannondale Bad Boys, 25mm is a stupid size (just a strong personal opinion) for urban commuting (or even training on some roads) regardless of the rim width.I’d ideally not use 25mm for commuting either, but run 25mm Open Paves on 622-17 on the ‘road’ bike which come up a nice bit over 27mm and work well for general abuse on tarmac and light use off it.
BBB wrote:The only
The only measurement relevant in this discussion is inner width measured at the the bead hook(s).Precisely, so when you wrote
but look also at 29er MTB wheels. Many of them will have 25-26mm wide rims so no problems with using 25mm or 28mm or wider tyres.
..I said I really wouldn’t recommend it, and have been giving you figures based on internal rim widths ever since.
The new generation of 23mm rims measure around 17mm inside and the 25mm ones listed above have 19-21mm inner width which is exactly the same as many MTB XC wheels.Most 29er MTB wheels have internal diameter much higher than 19mm, which is about as wide i’d feel comfy putting a 25mm tyre on and a bit more than recommended elsewhere.
BBB wrote:Someone tell those
[quote=BBB]Someone tell those guys they are doing it wrong! Their rims have the same or wider inner width that many mtb wheelsets (typically 24.5-25mm and 19mm inner)http://road.cc/content/review/132864-spin-koppenberg-max25-25mm-wide-fat-boy-clincher-wheels
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/RIPXCT45CCL/planet-x-ct45-carbon-clincher-rim%5B/quote%5D
..perhaps you should try and understand how rims are measured… then review what i’ve been trying to say.
CXR94Di2 wrote:Alpine hills
Alpine hills make UK ones short in comparison, plus the right gearing helps. No point grinding at 50rpm :DSpeaking of which, how’s the mega-cassette going ? I may be looking at doing something like that in the future unless Miche start doing a 34T or 36T 🙂
BBB wrote:I think it’s a
I think it’s a similar situation to running non-tubeless mtb tyres… tubeless with a bit of sealant, gaffer or Gorilla tape or split tube ghetto method. It looks and sounds dodgy, it shouldn’t work,No, no it really isn’t similar…
Mavic says that it can kill you… (because they want you to buy their expensive UST rims and ignore what consumers really want) but… it works and plenty of people enjoy the benefits.Nothing to do with their over-priced rims – it’s the tyre width they’re talking and they could have chosen any size for their new tyre with no additional cost to them. They have nothing to gain by choosing a particular width beyond technical merit.
Like I said before many people have been using narrow slicks with various mtb rims for ages and I haven’t heard any stories about spontaneous blowouts. What Mavic and many other companies say you can or can’t run is dictated largely their legal and marketing teams IMO.The guys from Continental would be terrified if they knew that I’m running their 28mm (32mm) slick tubeless at 50PSI at the front… but I know it works
I really doubt they would – however you’re still completely missing the point but, hey, whatever – i’ll leave the thread and let the OP hopefully get some more useful information about what they actually asked about.
Here’s a typically sensible
Here’s a typically sensible take from SheldonAlthough you can use practically any tire/rim combination that shares the same bead seat diameter, it is unwise to use widely disparate sizes.
If you use a very narrow tire on a wide rim, you risk pinch flats and rim damage from road hazards.
If you use a very wide tire on a narrow rim, you risk sidewall or rim failure. This combination causes very sloppy handling at low speeds. Unfortunately, current mountain-bike fashion pushes the edge of this. In the interest of weight saving, most current mountain bikes have excessively narrow rims. Such narrow rims work very poorly with wide tires, unless the tires are overinflated…but that defeats the purpose of wide tires, and puts undue stress on the rim sidewalls.
Followed by a table with recommended rim/tyre widths, itself followed by the equally sensible foot-note
Note: This chart may err a bit on the side of caution. Many cyclists exceed the recommended widths with no problem.
Erring on the side of caution, that table gives the following minimum recommended tyre size for a given rim
622-17 -> 25mm
622-19 -> 28mm
622-25 -> 44mm..which, for the smaller sizes at least, is in line with what Mavic were saying they’d actually tested. Food for thought ?
BBB wrote:I don’t really get
I don’t really get it.Bead security issue? Plenty of people run 1″ ish slicks on 26″ rims at 100PSI and they are still alive.
The width of mtb rims isn’t an issue but an ADVANTAGE. Nowadays it’s normal to run 23mm rubber on 25mm rims so logically +25mm tyres will spread better on wider rims.
Currently I run Conti Grand Prix 28mm mtb slicks (exactly the same as their 700C cousins) on 28mm Stans rims. They stretch to around 31-32mm and they handle beautifully.
The max pressure warnings on mtb rims are about wide mtb tyres run tubeless. It’s only to prevent some fools to put 60PSI in their 2.35″ tyres;-) You can still run narrower tyres at high pressure without an issue.It looks like anything with a MTB label on it is evil in a road cycling world;-)
Not at all – it’s just that it seems that there is some feedback to suggest that it may not be the best mix and, potentially, dangerous. I run wide road rims and narrow and wide tyres and enjoy the benefits – but i’m also willing to listen to advice from others who have thought about it, and tested it, more than me. Again, i’ve done – and do – things that may not be recommended but it’s a personal choice and judgement based on the rims, tyres and where i’m going to be riding (hence pressure). I’m not comfortable with telling someone else to try something that is explicitly advised against by those that may have much more of a clue than me. 23mm tyres on 25mm rims is hardly normal either.
Back to why… my take would be that given the way the a bead hooks into a rim I think it’s quite clear that the relationship between the width of the rim and tyre will dictate how much the tyre will need deform to adopt a certain shape.
If you have a narrow rim and a wide tyre the issue is normally the light-bulb stress (double curvature) and pinch flats. If it’s a very wide rim and a narrower tyre then to engage the bead in the hook securely then i’d imagine it’s the extra strain in the side-walls.. think about the angle of the bead/sidewall and the rim hook – doubly so with tubeless (which I use), you really want the two the match more the higher the pressure.
Anyway, not matter what you and I might think, maybe have a look at what people are saying why it’s not ideal to go to far either way with fat tyre/narrow rim or vice versa.
BBB wrote:There is no reason
There is no reason why not.
25mm tyres will easily go on 25 or even 26mm rims. Pressure isn’t an issue either when using with tubes.
I managed to put 28mm Schwalbe One tubeless tyres on 28mm Superstar MTB rims. The tyres stretched to wonderful 30-32mmThey can fit, and they may be alright but it’s not recommended for bead security reasons and ride quality, e.g. from the road.cc review of the Mavic All Road
17mm is not as wide as some, so why haven’t Mavic gone wider? It’s all to do with ISO norms. ISO 5775 defines the recommended tyre widths for different widths of rim, based on the security of the bead on the rim at a certain trye pressure: too narrow a tyre, or too wide, and the bead may not seat properly leading to a danger of the tyre blowing off the rim. Which would be bad. Mavic have been doing their own testing too, and they’re pretty confident ISO’s numbers are good. Look down the table and you’ll see that 17mm is the widest rim that will accommodate a 25mm tyre; any wider and 28mm is the minimum recommended width.
or the CTC discussion of rim/tyre widths
Another reason not to exceed the 2.2 limit on road is that a more bulbous tyre can deflect sideways with a noticeable effect on control and roadholding. Conversely, fitting a tyre of less than 1.4 times the rim section will result in a harsh ride and more rolling drag than a larger tyre at the same pressure.
I’ve used various non-recommended combinations and i’m still here (currently) but that is my choice and it is definitely not something i’d recommend to anyone else. That said, I really like your tyre choice 🙂
BBB wrote:I can’t recommend
I can’t recommend any particular model as I never use factory wheels but look also at 29er MTB wheels. Many of them will have 25-26mm wide rims so no problems with using 25mm or 28mm or wider tyres. Weight will be similar.I’d be really careful trying to use MTB rims with road tyres that narrow, especially the 25mm.
abudhabiChris wrote:Yes the
Yes the Mio is expensive but by the time you’re facing your third Garmin chest strap you’ll be saving money.I’ve got the Mio link and really like it – the strap is comfortable even when it is done up firmly enough to stay in place on your wrist and I like the fact that they have not used metal wherever possible so it won’t rust and tarnish.
The Garmin strap is terrible. DC Rainmaker has a good hack for anyone who has one that has stopped working – take the Garmin pod off and it fits on a Polar strap, which can be bought separately and works better.
Apparently the issue with Garmin is that after time the salts build up and start to interfere with the connections inside the strap. You could wash it after every 7 or 8 uses as recommended by Garmin but then the glue holding the pads to the strap will wash out. Take your pick… and choose something else.
The Garmin premium chest strap has a poor reputation for durability and washability – strangely the non-premium doesn’t (which is what I was suggesting). On the non-premium HRM the strap unclips to allow it to be washed and the sensor part is entirely plastic and wipes clean – no external contacts, nothing to peel or separate, works fine. Sensor part on mine has also been through the first part of the wash cycle without any noticeable side-effects. They’re fine, pretty comfy and cost buttons online.
That said i’d probably spring the extra for a basic Tickr if I was buying a new HRM now, just for the option of BTLE in future. Edit : I like the idea of the Mio, but it’s not worth double the price of the Tickr to me.
The Wahoo dual-BTLE/ANT+ HRM
The Wahoo dual-BTLE/ANT+ HRM seem to get very good reviews, not too pricey and future proof.The non-premium Garmin HRM I use is cheap as chips (e.g. off eBay), has great battery life, washable (unlike the ‘premium’ one) and works fine with an ANT+ head-unit – but no smart phone linking.
Mio Link looks lovely, has BTLE/ANT+ but, as mentioned, has low battery life (probably not an issue for most rides unless you forget to charge it) and is ‘kin expensive. I’d love one but far too expensive just for HR for me.
Cadence wise, the easiest and neatest one i’ve used is the accelerometer-based Garmin cadence one – just straps to your crank arm, accuracy seems OK and no fiddling with magnets, strapping stuff to the chain arm etc. ANT+ only though. Wahoo looks OK but don’t know anything about it.
Bontrager Speed/Cadence dual sensor or Garmin GSC-10 are the obvious other candidates (had the Bontrager one, it was great apart from the usual faff with keeping it aligned/on the chain-arm, and very reasonably priced) – but both ANT+ only again.