Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I use 5 10 Impact Pro. They
I use 5 10 Impact Pro. They are more weatherproof than a standard 510. Claims of ‘quick drying’ are relative though – they have plenty of padding, so still need newspaper to dry them out. They come up in sales or eBay in your price range. Best to try some on, as the calibration on sizing is on the small side.
Kamsahamnida Paul. That is a
Kamsahamnida Paul. That is a very good cycling route.
Front 100 is 100mm across the
Front 100 is 100mm across the end caps of the hub, and the axle is 120mm long. Same at the back – 142 mm across the hub (and the same between the dropouts) , but the axle is longer, 169 mm.
Grease the thread. Get a nice expensive Allen key that fits properly, and check the recommended torque – it’s not a truck wheelnut. Typically 10Nm is enough.
M12 is the thread diameter, P 1.5 is the pitch of the thread, L 14 is the length of the thread.
Definitely recommend a rear
Definitely recommend a rear mech alignment tool, it sounds just like mine when the hanger is out. I wouldn’t even fiddle with indexing any more till I check alignment.
I had a SRAM brighter more or
I had a SRAM brifter more or less seize up on my CX bike. Stripped and cleaned it as far as I could, then used white lithium grease (recommended by SRAM). Worked like new after that.
Your problem may be totally different of course. I’m just a sucker for every sort of specialist lube. DT Swiss ratchet grease that is the same price as saffron, which I’ve used about 20mg of, is my favourite so far.
Why are you guys quoting your body weight when talking about chains? It is the power you generate which is importantthe same power level
So you are telling me that if I climb a hill slowly I will do more damage to a chain than someone like Bernal or G climbing that same hill very quickly. Really? Are you sure?
No, he was not telling you that. Hence ‘at the same power level’.
You and Egan set off up Holme Moss, both watching your power meters and sticking to 200W. Assuming Egan is lighter than you, he will get to the top whilst you are still on the climb. So you carry on for another 5 minutes grinding away at the chain.
You ride down and have another race. This time, you stick right beside Egan all the way to the top (he probably needs to take it easy after all those beers with G). Your average power will be greater than his. Again, mashing your chain more.
Back down for one more effort. This time, I put a strain gauge on the driven length of the chains to measure their tension. I find yours is under greater tension, as it has to winch your greater weight up the hill. So more pressure between all those pins and rollers and teeth, grinding your drivetrain to swarf.
Finally you decide to take him on the sprint through Holmfirth. You both stamp on the pedals to accelerate your masses forwards. You are bending your cranks to get the force from your legs via the chain to the back wheel. Your greater mass requires you to bend those cranks and stretch that chain even more than Egan to get enough force to provide the same acceleration. Your chain goes ping as you cross the line together. Fortunately it’s outside The Wrinkled Stocking Tearoom, so you can pop in for a well deserved brew.
What’s up with PlanetX?
What’s up with PlanetX?
They offer better spec for less money than Ribble. I’ve never had any issue buying from them.
I did a while ago try to buy a pair of road bikes from Ribble. They insisted the frames had to be painted in Italy, so as Italy is closed in the summer would I mind waiting till September for delivery. I would expect they are better these days.
Re three rim brake bikes – meaning you have several touring tandems? Cool!
Maybe, but the rims and
Maybe, but the rims and brakes match, so unless both have been changed at some stage it needs a skinnier tyre, and a smooth road.
Looks like it has braze-ons for downtube shifters? I’d restore it to those, and ditch the brifters that don’t go with the quill stem.
Id also keep the original paint job – that fade is nice.
What you would like to get
What you would like to get are replacement end caps, although I don’t know exactly what would fit there – notoriously difficult to get spares for apparently. Maybe some generic ones would fit?
If you can’t find the end caps, you can just put in an adapter axle.
https://www.halowheels.com/shop/spares/hub-spares/12mm-to-qr-thru-axle-adaptor/
Cheaper ones can be found on your favourite interweb sites
A lightweight durable item
A lightweight durable item like a bike that saves 100s of tonnes of carbon from vehicle emissions over its lifetime I would put fairly low on the list of concerns.
Browsing the internet whilst choosing your bike, and posting about it on here, will have released more than a kg of C.
Putting it in landfill – it will still be there in x years time, but it will be a tiny % compared to the disposable nappies in there. Or you could turn it into novelty trophies as prizes for cycle events (seen many a seat post go this way). Or paint it yellow and hang it outside a pub to show support for a passing bike race. Plumb it into your heating system as a radiator (I’ve not done this, but I did see a radiator made into a bike do a CX race).
^ This
^ This
To avoid biting, you need to tighten the lockring to the 35-40Nm and check it occasionally.When one refers to biting, are you talking about the marks from the cassette on the exterior of the freehub, or the freehub jamming and not spinning freely as it is designed to do?
I’m asking as I’ve had an issue where the freehub has jammed insdie the hub, which I think was caused by the LBS overtightening the cassette.
I don’t see how over tightening the lock ring can do anything other than give you a tight ring. The cassette sits on the shoulders of the freehub at the inboard end, and the lock ring screws into the outboard end of the freehub, compressing the sprockets together. It has no bearing on the bearings.
If you can’t get the freehub off, it is because the axle has seized into the bearings. Gently persuade it out – videos on line of the best way to do this, depending on your make of hub. Assuming you have cartridge bearings . If you have cup and cones, then ignore me and google the videos.
Been running hydraulic brakes
Been running hydraulic brakes for years. They don’t leak. Might need bleeding every two years.
I also have a bike with mechanical discs. Constantly fiddling with the pad adjust, and the rear cable is in the right place to fill with water and seize.
Ribble CGR has carbon fork too. Buy it.
Regarding gears and shifters-
Regarding gears and shifters- I’d recommend learning to do this yourself. It’s something that you will want to regularly maintain, and will cost a few leu for cables every now and again.
I always use a chain checker on any second hand bike. A very cheap gadget, and lets you know when the chain is worn before it inflicts serious wear on the cassette and chainrings.
Ribble. Hydraulic brakes
Ribble. Hydraulic brakes beats cable discs every time.
