Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Running mount and dismount in
Running mount and dismount in a cyclocross style will make a significant difference. I watched the transition of a similar event recently and was amazed at the number of riders who would come to a complete stop before laboriously getting off.
Do you sell SPiced hAM as
Do you sell SPiced hAM as well?
Ok, I stand corrected.
Ok, I stand corrected.
I had a similar issue with daughter’s shock mount bolt working loose when new – blue loctite sorted that.
I’d still be suspicious of the same happening at the hub axle though, especially when new and all the factory grease is nice and slippery. Obviously don’t want to use loctite there!
By ‘Kingpin’ do you mean rear
By ‘Kingpin’ do you mean rear thru-axle? If so, you have to keep an eye on how tight it is, regardless of brand.
If you were riding for any length of time with 3mm play at the chainstays, that won’t be good for the freehub. It is axle tension that is supposed to cause the dropouts at the end of the chainstays to compress the freehub on to the wheel. Without that, a new hub could move sideways so the pawls are not engaging correctly (or splines if it’s a DT ratchet style).I’d never seen René Herse
I’d never seen René Herse before, they look spectacular! Three chainrings all mounted on the same three bolts.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/cranks/rh-tandem-triple-crank/
Yes, I wouldn’t be surprised
Yes, I wouldn’t be surprised that riding with only two chainring bolts bends something out of shape. Otherwise some weight weenie would come up with the two-arm chainset.
Quite possible the remaining two bolts were not fully tight. There would be double the load trying to squish the bolts and ovalise the holes, as well as trying to ovalise the entire chainring.
We are going for a family
We are going for a family trip to Alora, north of Malaga at 1/2 term. Plenty of interesting looking roads between the mountains and the coast. The A7000 road north out of Malaga has two spirals on it that would be on anyone’s list.
Thanks for the wiki link,
Thanks for the wiki link, which does quote some research, albeit on HGVs with drum brakes. The conclusion there is there are some benefits to HGVs with many drum braked wheels. However, not a massive difference-
“Inpractice on an actual vehicle with several brakes with various levels of proportioning and effectiveness, the cooling advantages of pulsing the brakes were not large enough to be noticed.”
nevertheless, my preference is to brake ahead of the corners rather than drag, because it’s more fun.
“So they act as a heat sink
“So they act as a heat sink that is continuously refreshed before each successive injection of heat, so that less heat ever reaches the brake fluid.”
Hawkinspeter makes a good proposal here, that wasn’t measured in the paper I referenced.
Mybike wrote:
That will actually create more heat. Hard short braking will work much better and produce less heat. It give the rotor fluids time to cool, The energy that is dissipated ultimately as heat will be the same in both cases, but heavy breaking will result in much higher brake component temperatures during the period of braking, whilst continuous breaking will result in a lower equilibrium brake component temperature to be established.Mybike, how would it create ‘more’ heat to drag the brake? You need to show your working here. I’ve read the cycling weekly article where someone makes such an assertion but without data.
Ignoring differences in aerodynamic drag, the amount of heat generated is the same. The temperatures reached will vary based on how effectively the disc dissipates that heat. The heat loss will be more rapid at a greater temperature difference between disc and surrounding air, but it isn’t obvious from that which is a better braking strategy.
Dragging a brake can be done on a rear and front brake, whereas sharp braking tends to be more powerful on the front. So dragging gives you more disc to dissipate the same amount of heat.
If you want graphs, there are some here, but it doesn’t resolve the question. We should also consider why if matters- if you have clean fresh brake fluid and properly sized rotors your brakes should survive the descent.
Tredz spec sheet on the D50
Tredz spec sheet on the D50 has Shimano mechanical brakes, which given the visible group set is Claris level, will be single sided .
I’m even more jealous having
I’m even more jealous having seen the video!
Sounds like you have a great
Sounds like you have a great plan with the Spanish pad!
Hydraulic discs every time.
The mechanical ones will be single side actuation. This means one pad is fixed, and as it wears down you have to adjust it out, otherwise it disappears inside the caliper and you have no braking. Not a problem on my kids CX bike where it gets checked over after every 30 minute race – less attractive for regular long descent.
Tiagra 2×10 gearing will be an improvement over the Claris 2×8.
If you are planning long descents and dragging the brake, it might be worth getting a new Ultegra finned disc or similar to dissipate the heat better, and finned pads.
Why do you need to deflate
Why do you need to deflate your tyres? Could you just leave the same air in and not worry about it?
You can put an extra layer of tubeless rim rape on which has the effect of increasing the diameter of the bead, and might encourage them to seat more securely. But given they are already seating fine, just leave them pumped up.
Copper slip grease, cleaning
Copper slip grease, cleaning every now and again.
why did you need to adjust it? Are your legs longer at 5am?
