Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
The main point about this
The main point about this incident is that the police charged the bloke with the wrong crime. If he had been charged for ‘driving without due care’ then it would have been an open and shut case. Unfortunately, they charged him with using a mobile phone (as in a communication device) and so he was able to challenge it. So, who is to blame here? The POS doing the filming? What about the legal team representing him? Perhaps the police /CPS for the wrong charge?
Personally, I think it shows a number of failings…but there are worse things in life, sadly.
One thing to bear in mind is
One thing to bear in mind is that the Basic package does not stream HD, whereas the Standard one does. This, and the 2 concurrent devices, made it the ‘goto’ option in our household. There is a good 1 month trial FOC, which comes without any real gotchas.
Yes, to be fair to CUK they
Yes, to be fair to CUK they recognised the problems with being called Cycling Touring Club and that the name no longer matched their remit of generally promoting cyling within the UK. The membership took a lot of convincing about the name change but Cycling UK is much more apt. I think the problem with BC is that it is still seen as racing organisation and that really does not represent the majority of cyclists (let’s face it, not everyone who cycles wears lycra and rides a racer bike). OP, have a good look through the literature available and make the choice, worst case scenario is you just change your mind and swap after a year. Both offer very good liability insurance but you do need to read the small print an ensure that the membership bought (BC offers various levels) includes what you are looking for.
Just get the two sets of
Just get the two sets of stats and then use this site to work out where the bars are going to go:
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
Only the OP can tell if 6mm is important, but the point about the length is that can also affect a number of other factors (play with the tool and it becomes clear how this can work).
Bear in mind that you may also need to factor in the STIs themselves, for instance, some of the Compag STIs have a 5mm increase in reach to get to the hood compared to Shimano.
Ultimately though, don’t be afraid to play with the stem length/height until you are happy. Just get some cheap ones off ebay (other sites are available) and then, when you have settled on setup (spacers and length), buy a decent stem and chuck the rest back on ebay to recoup your initial outlay.
Some wheels can start quiet
Some wheels can start quiet until the packed grease/lube thins out and then you will hear the pawls clicking, others just stay the way they start. Nothing to worry about on Fulcrum/Campag and some freehubs, e.g., top of the range Dura-Ace cannot even be re-lubed properly when/if they do dry out.
Yepp, great area for cycing
Yepp, great area for cycing with lots of good roads to get around. The thing to bear in mind though is that the A429 Fosse way is one road worth avoiding due to traffic. It can be impossible to avoid it completely though, and it is OK for crossing or short connecting bits.
I would recommend a number of towns/villages and then just route between to suit as you cannot really go much wrong.
Chedworth…great Roman villa (well worth a look off bike, btw) and there is a great cycling cafe at the farm (doorsteps of great cake at reasonable prices). It can get busy with local cycling clubs but they are very good at absorbing crowds/serving quickly.
Bourton…very pretty and there are lots of good roads in/out of the village but watch out for camera zombies just walking out. Good selection of cafes if you avoid peak times.
Broadway…not just the town (which is pretty) but also the Broadway tower area. Nice cafe at the top with some stunning views. Avoid Fish Hill at all costs due to traffic/coaches, etc., looks great on a map. Take in Snowshill if you want a good challenge and it will then lead to some nice cycling across the lavendar fields at the top.
South Cerney way…not much to note except that this is the Cirencester lake area which is great for those days where you want flat riding and miles/hours in the bag.
Bibury…lovely little village but the delights are easy to miss whizzing through on a bike. There is a nice cafe at the trout farm and a few decent rolling climbs out, like the excellent spin over to Northleach where there is very cycle friendly cafe in the converted jail (great outdoor area through to the back). Service can be slow on busy days/peak times.
Upper/Lower Slaughter…incredibly quaint and good lumps into/out of but little to do once there.
Guiting Power…great little Cotswold pubs and worth spinning around. The area has some good climbs but nothing that should get you off the bike and wishing that you didn’t have that last pint of refreshing cider.
Also, don’t forget the local cycle shop/cafe Cotswold Cycles at Moreton which is well worth a visit for many reasons (although dropping £5k after perusing bikes whilst waiting for cake is always a risk).
If you work out where you
If you work out where you want to base the rides then I can give you a few tips but you need to narrow it down first. I ride in/around Cheltenham which is a good base for flat/undulating or lumpy stuff
Yepp, the OP needs to be a
Yepp, the OP needs to be a bit clearer on what they mean by “Race“. Most new/non cyclists refer to any organised event as a race, whereas the majority of events are just that, an event to be enjoyed at a comfortable pace. OP, if you can 25km now, then you should be able to do an 85km event in a month’s time. Just ride regularly (more than once a week) and aim to increase the longest ride each week by a reasonable amount (say 35km this week, 45km next week, 55km the week after and then 85km on the day). Keep your pace steady on the day and don’t get swept up into the thrill of it all by working too hard for the first half.
If the OP really does mean “Race”, then I would say probably no chance, but that is very dependent on natural ability and the level of racing.
As above, you are
As above, you are overthinking this. They appear to be both much of a muchness and there won’t be any tangible real world difference. 24mm/30mm rims, both the same really…1500/1600g, both the same really.
Aero only gets aero 35-40mm+, and even then you need to be riding at a reasonable tempo. At this price point, aero means heavy (usually over 1800g)/dull and uninspiring.
Personally, I would be more concerned about getting the right type of wheel given that you are plannign on riding these through the year. £95 really is peanuts in terms of a pair of wheels. Frankly, a wheel bag, rim tape and skewers will probably be about the same. Hence, the folks selling these will have had to make some big compromises somewhere. 16 spokes may (or may not) look good but that is not a lot of spokes. If you are big and burly then that is a lot to be carrying. In any case, pop a spoke and it will probably mean a lift home. Wheel flex will probably be a big factor whether you are burly or not.
The wheels are both reasonably lightweight…given that they cost pence, that usually means the brake tracks will have been milled within a mm of their useful life to look good on stats…look good and last about 6 weeks of winter braking. When the rims are toast, there will be a very high risk that the wheels will just go in the bin.
Oh, cheap wheels means cheap hubs. Cheap hubs can mean crap seals/bearings/tolerances with the inevitable replacements down the line.
Personally, I would just stick with the usual brands (shimano R500, Fulcrum 7LG, etc.) at this incredibly low price point and just be glad that they turn up without needing to be retrued and that they should last until you have some more money to spend on something to get excited about (£300+).
Ride your bike
Ride your bike
If by “competing” you mean
If by “competing” you mean road/crit racing then just but a 2nd had Caad 10 as it will give 99% of the performance and will take the inevitable dents. Failing that, there is nothing technically “worth it” about high end kit except the smile on your face when you ride it (or admire it at the cafe). If you can afford it for that, go for it!
The problem with the Hiplok Z
The problem with the Hiplok Z Combos is actually carrying them! They do not like to be coiled up tight to stick in a pocket and zipping them about the seatpost, etc., just leaves a long bit sticking out which gets in the way. I do like them and use one…but it is only just long enough for basic use.
I’m still looking for the ideal solution which would be light, cheap, easy to transport and effective (probably a bit like asking for the moon on a stick though).
Flounces off stage left…
Flounces off stage left…
A carbon fork won’t do
A carbon fork won’t do anything to help your arse, just ride 28mm tyres with the right pressure (don’t be afraid to experiment).Steel can be wonderfully compliant but you will struggle to get a decent steel bike at that price point. Stress not though, there are loads of other great options in the C2W bracket.
I was taken out on a
I was taken out on a roundabout last year, t-boned at speed by a driver that said she “saw me but didn’t think she’d hit me”. Wasn’t sure what to make of that…but she was very apologetic right from the start (when I came to) and immediately admitted liability. The police were great (even took me to hospital when the ambulance failed to turn up). I was given the choice of having her prosecuted (DWDCAA) or sent on a driver awareness course. I think it was good that I had input into things and chose the latter as I figured it would make a bigger difference. It is a shame the OP didn’t get the same contrition or choice.