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First big question would be
First big question would be tubeless or standard clincher? If the latter, just run 75f/85r and see how you get on. Simple.
Yeah, what he said. The 5000s
Yeah, what he said. The 5000s are lovely slick/fast/supple tyres with good predictable grip levels but suffer in 2 ways…durability and puncture/cut resistance. The 4 seasons trade off ‘some’ of the 5000 pros whilst covering off the cons.
5000s for the summer bike, 4 seasons for the winter or ‘do it all’ bike.
Technically, the 460 is not a
Technically, the 460 is not a wheel but just a rim. The problem with spokes is that once one goes, the others can get stressed and then start failing even if the original spoke is replaced. For a commuting bike, you have a couple of options really: either go handbuilt which will mean that you can ride all through the year and then replace the rims when worn out…or go for something cheap and take the hit (basically treat the wheels as comsummable items). If you have the cash, you may want to mix and match with something cheap for the grind to work and then something nicer for the w/e.
Without spending too much you could go for Shimano RS100s as the cheap workhorse pair (less than £80 and surprisingly good), matched with some Zonda C17s (£300) for when you want something a bit livier with nice rubber on at the w/e. Handbuilt options will typically start at around £350 but get more cost effective as time goes on.
I got fed up with the cheap option and forever replacing wheels ridden in the winter and splashed out £500 on a decent handbuilt set. It was a great thing to do as I have now had the wheels for a few years…the DA hubs last for ever if serviced every now and then and a replace/rebuild of the rims costs me about £200. I have had 3 rebuilds so far and the wheels are lovely to ride, come rain or shine.
I know you say you have
I know you say you have checked the wheel but it is still a possibility. I reckon it could be either build/spoke flex or perhaps play in the bearings/axle pre-load. With the wheel in position, grab it at the rim and see how easy it is to flex. If it moves freely for a small bit then that will probably be pre-load play (which is easy to fix with the right tools)…or perhaps it moves/flexes evenly under pressure, which could mean that you have a flexy wheel because it is by design (too few/incorrect/poor spokes, etc.)…or that the tension just needs adjusting. Be warned, tension adjustments could be a slippery slope if you are inexperienced and you may end up wishing you had never started!
You mention another set of wheels, if they are OK when you ride, then fit them and do the same test. If both wheels are the same then it could well be the frame, or the fact that you are simply pushing too many watts
One other thing to check though is the brakes. May sound silly but brake cable travel can be badly affected by the weather during a ride and it can be quite a shock to check your brakes whilst waiting at the top of a hill to find that the movement is down to just a few mm whereas at the start of the ride they were springing back a treat. The back brack is very prone to this due to crud building up in the small outer cable feeding into the brake calipers. I recently had a similar issue, componded by an iffy cable, on my winter bike. I changed the cable /outer and lubed, reset everything, brake rub went away.
I can’t see any wheelset
I can’t see any wheelset offering a significant upgrade over ‘decent but not great’ wheels. Let’s face it, Zonda C17s offer much the same as the options quoted but cost £300. Whether one stumps up a grand on wheels or not usually depends on spending priorities…and if you ride in the UK it would be bonkers to buy decent wheels now in any case.
Keep the current wheels and ride them to death…your fitness will improve and that will give you the best bang for the buck, then buy the wheelset that you like the look of (just do a little research on the relative pros and cons of carbon/alu first). My summer wheels are Fulcrum Quattro and I think they look ace ☺
yeah, I am not convinced that
yeah, I am not convinced that is chain suck, probably more a case of either the setup not being right or just bad luck (hitting a bump in the road mid-shift).
As above, get the damage checked out (there are quite a few good CF repairers out there now) although it does look cosmetic. Might also be worth getting a chain catcher fitted as part of the front shifter check/setup afterwards (the Token ones work well and cost as little as a tenner).
Might sound silly but have
Might sound silly but have you typed “bicycle frame decals” into your tinternet search engine?
https://www.backpackinglight
https://www.backpackinglight.co.uk/practical/VE104.htmlSome good stuff on that site. I have the bivvy but IIAH I have carried it but not used it.
Boombang wrote:
..Unsure what Canyon’s viewpoint on turbo trainers is…From their FAQ website:
No Canyon bikes are intended for use, or officially approved to be used, with turbo trainers. However, in our experience, all models can handle stationary training. This may seem like a contradiction, but let us explain what this means. At Canyon, we have an unparalleled approach to testing our bikes. We are the only bike manufacturer in the world that checks 100% of its carbon forks, handle bars and stems. However, at this time, we do not conduct long-term testing for the use of carbon bikes on turbo trainers. For this reason, we cannot recommend their use in good confidence. It all comes down to our ability to guarantee product safety, and to our responsibility, as a manufacturer, for you and your health.
So, nice and clear then!
I think what concerns most of
I think what concerns most of us is not whether the damage can be repaired…it is the fact that such a simple and soft impact caused it in the first place. Then, even with a short ride, there would have been a lot of very unusual stresses on the other areas (particularly the other seat stay which is the bit that would be a concern given the location of this break).
So, more about the damage that cannot be seen rather, than the simple fracture that can be seen/fixed.
At the end of the day, this is one for the OP to decide on. Hindsight will dictate the right choice in the end.
I’m with the others, probably
I’m with the others, probably the softest way to crack a seatstay I have ever heard of. I would bin it, buy a replacement and swap everything over.
Swissstop flash pro black
Swissstop flash pro black prince. Fantastic all round performance but not great longevity. Tbh, carbon wheel braking in the wet is very dependent on the wheel itself, although decent brakes/pads can help a lot. The Wiggle lifelines also get good reviews but I haven’t tried them yet.
Oh, just reread and cannot
Oh, just reread and cannot think why you need to be re-indexing as such. That should be a once off for new equipment setup…and then a minor adjustment after a little while. The rear index function doesn’t really care about what happens at the front.
It could be that you are
It could be that you are trying to get something working that shouldn’t really work without some kind of rub. Running big/big on most mechnical setups is going to cause an issue as the front derailieur will probably rub at some point (either small/big or big/big) depending on which of the 2 options you have done the setup for. If you check the angle of the chain when running big/big you will see why the chain, jockey wheels and everything else is having a problem running it.
Why not have a look at the range you are running and see whether there is a better option, albeit at the loss of a close ratio at some point, e.g. if currently running 11-25 try an 11-27 or maybe a 12-27, etc.
Just as an aside, is it worth checknig that you are using any trim options if you have them? Most groupsets have a trim option for the FD, puzzling my Potenza has 3 trim options for the small ring but none for the big, whereas my Shimano setups (4700/5800) have trim for big and small rings.
Unless the rankings show the
Unless the rankings show the winner to be Viviani then they don’t really count…and you know it 😉
