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If you are looking for a set
If you are looking for a set of wheels to cope with commuting and winter training then I would get a set for the job. Riding in cruddy weather will have you grinding those rims down with a lovely paste. Hence, before you know it, you could end up throwing away a nice set of wheels just because the rims are down to ~0.7mm. I would be looking at spending a little extra and getting some handbuilts, as I did when I got fed up throwing away back wheels with perfect hubs. There are lots of options and a decent wheel builder will help you with rim choice, replaceable spokes and some hubs that stand up to the damp and fit your maintenance preference (cup and cone for me, you may prefer replaceable cartridges but will need a puller, etc.).
The winter wheels on my Allez weigh ~1550g and initially cost £500 but they have been rebuilt 3 times now (so a bit like Trigger’s broom). You don’t need to spend that much (I spent extra on lovely DA hubs which will last longer than me as long as I look after them). I call them “winter wheels” but they would easily suit mid-summer romps too!
Ask yourself, is there a BIG
Ask yourself, is there a BIG reason as to why it makes any difference. Some years have different model versions but there is no real difference between them (perhaps the odd rebranding here or there) so maybe getting a 2015 instead of a 2016 doesn’t really matter? However, some years vary greatly due to major overhauls (say, jumping from SL5 to SL6 in the case of Tarmacs recently).
Perhaps it could be that the seller is telling the truth in that he bought the bike in 2016, although it may have been a 2015 model? It can get confusing with 2019 bikes now on sale in some shops, next to bikes from 2018…and old stock from 2017.
As it happens, my winter bike is a Allez E5 from 2011 and I have put over 20,000 miles on the clock…it is still going fine, albeit that it is a bit like Trigger’s broom having had the groupset replaced over time (bit by bit), different wheels (several times), new saddle, replacement seatpost…
I was plagued by the “you
I was plagued by the “you have won xxxx on Amazon” pop up…and simply started to avoid Road.cc as it always seemed to be the source. Firefox (instead of Chrome) seems to have stopped it now.
Only way i can get it working
Only way i can get it working on Android is via FF. As per above, usually takes several ‘visits’ to actually visit so have been checking out the alternatives…
Don’t overlook the Shimano
Don’t overlook the Shimano xc7. Fantastic shoes that seem to be good all round (looks, stiffness, weight, comfort, etc.). Just go one size up to your normal shoes.
Bear in mind that shoe fit is very subjective, and folks will rave about what fits them and not you!
^ What he said (apart from
^ What he said (apart from the Snickers due to the associated sugar rush and insulin high/low). Gels have their place (on long hard rides where you can’t face any more food but know you need some energy, emergencies when you have got it wrong and been out for 3 hours and started to get dizzy…or at the pointy end of a race) but for most of us a gel should be something you keep in the back pocket for about 3 months.
I have been sat in lovely cafes serving a myriad of delicious cakes whilst on a break in a 45 mile club ride…only to see some guys sucking in a gel or two instead of enjoying the fare on offer. Disappointing but a great testament to the marketing BS.
That said, the Torq ones are quite good and have some interesting flavours which can pep you up a bit.
efail wrote:
Thanks for the response. No pedals, no tat. Basic. Even if I accept the BS (quote), is 500g above their claimed, ‘super lightweight’ (quote Boardman website, medium), acceptable? It’s like asking someone to carry an extra bottle of water up the 152,000 of ‘elevation gain'(Strava) that I did last year, for absolutely nothing.
You do realise how ridiculous you sound? Just calculate 500g as a percentage of your body weight and learn to smirk at the insignificance of it all.
Yepp, over in Europe they
Yepp, over in Europe they seem to have no qualms whatsoever about team kit or winners jerseys. You will find any number of folks in polka dots, yellow/pink or dressed head to toe in Saxo Tinkoff like Dirty Bertie who is over 30. In a way it is quite refreshing, and it’s always nice to pass the KOM on a climb 🙂
What kind of riding you do
What kind of riding you do (typical parcours, solo/group and speed) will make the answer highly variable…and will probably end up “35mm looks better”.
The problem with the lovely
The problem with the lovely tan sidewall is that it does stain very easily. I was caught in a heavy and unexpected downpour on one ride and the walls have since been a very murky tan/stained colour. I am not one prepared to invest hours trying to recover the look and the usual Muc Off washing, etc., has not managed to change the colour back one bit.
For me, these are real sunny day or race tyres: very quick, fantastic grip, unparalleled ride quality/feel, easy to fit and they look great. Downsides are: poor wear rate, cut up easily, expensive, tan wall stains and the tyre seems more prone to punctures than many alternatives.
Personally, I keep them for 50 mile rides in the sunshine on my retro bike and always smile when riding!
I gave up looking for any
I gave up looking for any kind of sense in sentencing or justice in these cases a long time ago! The only time any of that applies seems to be when the victim also happens to be a policeman.
Yepp, another vote for 4700
Yepp, another vote for 4700 Tiagra. It is a very good quality groupset and can be had for as little as £250. That really is a steal. As for the BB, if it feels/sounds rough then simply swap out with an Ultegra one (assuming you don’t get one with the groupset), very cheap and and excellent quality (but you won’t spin any quicker!). Other that, some dcent tyres, like Schwalbe One or GPS4000IIs.
Nah, for an all year
Nah, for an all year workhorse I would be looking at 4700. It offers great VFM (whole groupsets for as little as £250) and replacement of parts is dead cheap too. As a Brucie bonus, 10 speed chains are less prone to those minor faffing issues of their 11 speed counterparts (as in no specific chain tools, lots of reusable chain links available, etc.) and there are no side plates that are finer than a gnat’s chaff. Thing is, well set-up and maintained 4700 is pretty blinking good in terms of performance, looks, durability and cost. Yes, Ultegra is nice but who cares about the finer points of shifting quality when it is lashing down with rain and one is riding into a block headwind.
You weigh 100kg and are
You weigh 100kg and are fussing over a possible 270g saving? My advice would be that, if you are really champing to spend some money, then look for something that will make a difference like nicer tyres, some decent shorts, etc.
I think you are worrying
I think you are worrying about the wrong things! For instance, I swapped out a gear cable a couple of weeks ago…it cost me £4 and shifting is now sweet. Most of the things you mention I would file under “Consummable items”, a bit like overlooking a fantastic 2k bike because the pads are a bit worn.
It looks like you are buying second hand so the biggest concern for me would be provenance and reliability of the seller. Availability of receipts, crash history, etc. Assuming that all is fine then I would urge a little caution over getting into racing with such a good purchase. Most of the folks I know who race do so to a very creditable level but only ever ride stuff that can be replaced without too many tears. Favoured bikes for the lower cat levels are typically aluminium framed (as it can take the odd knock without too much hassle) and standard wheels (certainly nothing fancy). If this all sounds like the bike you already have then ride that for the first few seasons in racing as it won’t be the bike that holds you back for a long while yet.
If both bikes pass muster, then buy the one that makes you smile since it will be the best one 🙂
