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16 comments
I was about to ask how to get rid of the gunk, cheers all.
So it was a big hole, which partially sealed, so why didnt you remove tyre and patch in the evening and refill with sealant?
I have had a nightmare with the rear tyre that came with the Mavics, went down to 30psi during my office hours everyday, sometimes half way home it was spraying liquid all over my leg which is a weird feeling when you don't know what it is, am I leaking somewhere?
Went all over the bottom of the frame, hard to get off as well
Eventually I dumped it for a tubed tyre, funnily the front one is OK, just the rear that was always cutting up, wonder if Mavic should send a free replacement?
IMG_20180902_160835.jpg
Isopropyl alcohol is good at cleaning off sealant gunk (latex).
get one of these and go all the way to 32 (or bigger if you want)
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
It's a viable option, but just as cheap to buy the inner and outer cage plates for the GS version and swap them over. Gives a crisper change than the Road link in my experience
Ultegra 6800, Dura Ace 9070, 5800 use the same design of cage plates, the Dura Ace inner is made of carbon on the short cage.
I converted a Dura Ace to use a long cage
20 minutes job, then you can go up to 32 easily
thanks for all the advice, My next question is what cassette to get?
I have a 105 5800 11-28t with a 50/34t crank at the moment with, I am guessing the 105 short cage mech, I am looking at going to the r7000 11-30t to make it a little bit easier on the hills.
From what i have read this mechis recommended to only go to 28t but some say 32 is possible. Will be able to use it on a 30t or is a new mech needed?
Or am i better off using this a good point to replace everything at the back end?
Cheers!
Thanks both for the advice.
Think i will put them on earlier and think about getting some with better puncture protection for the RAB.
Honestly, junk the tires. Whilst they roll well, they seem to be made of soft cheese and the moment there is any rain washing bits onto the road they become an absolute liability from a puncture perspective, even allowing for generous sealant, and cause more problems than they solve.
Whilst I love my KE UST wheels, and you should absolutely notice the difference, I'd probably stick them on in spring, run the Yskions whilst the weather is nice (so as not to waste the tire), but then put something better on towards the end of summer, particularly if you are doing RAB and won't get the choice of sitting out a ride for weather.
One tip I'd have regarding tubeless on the Mavics is, if you notice your tyres are not retaining pressure for very long i.e. having to pump them up every morning, then put in a bit more sealant. I found that the recommended 30ml per wheel wasn't enough.and ended up adding another 30ml after a couple of weeks and now my tyres retain pressure for a week or so.
I've always put 70-75 mil in road tyres, never had an issue with holding pressure and more likely to seal punctures. 30 mil way too little as you've gathered
I've always put 70-75 mil in road tyres, never had an issue with holding pressure and more likely to seal punctures. 30 mil way too little as you've gathered
yep got all the extra bits, Going to leave the old wheels on for now and change in the summer, Hoping it will feel like a bonus boost changing to the new wheels!
Ah yes - of course.
Assuming you got all the extras Mavic include with the wheels - sealant syringe, core remover, etc. - you've got a well matched tyre and rim combo and all the tools to facilitate the set up process.
Give it a go - it'll be a piece of cake!
Cheers for that, I am going to stick with the Yksion Pro tyres that come with the wheels. From all the reviews they seem to be a good fit together so I am hoping they go on easy.
I have around 10 years experience with tubeless and i recommend you give it a go.
You do get the odd problem but don't that put you off... my last experience was setting my wife's Canyon Endurace up tubeless with the Schwalbe Pro One and DT Swiss wheels it came with. Honestly - it couldn't have been any easier. The tyres banged on with a trackpump first time and have been flawless since.
Get the tyres seated first then deflate, remove the valve cores, add sealant, and re-inflate. It's worth spending a bit of time to then distribute sealant around the inside of the tyre to deal with any pinholes or slight leaks ASAP.
Have you got some particular tyres in mind?