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4 comments
And here's the finished article.
Cost £250 for the following: New chain, cassette, stem, headset bearings, brakes, cables, bar tape, 2 chainrings and bottom bracket. This also included £25 to burn out the seized stem , seatpost and bottom bracket plus powder coating and full set of decals.
I cleaned small parts with an ultrasonic cleaner, but only cos I'm lazy (and they were really really filthy).
The wheels, saddle and pedals in the pic are from my spares collection, but once Ive replaced the rims and rebuilt the wheels, the originals will be going back on.
IMAG0311.jpg
All good advice above. I'd prioritise it like this:
1. Check what needs replaced vs what just needs a good clean.
2. Strip to frame and clean EVERYTHING including threads and inside seat and head tubes
3. Lightly grease seatpost and stem before reinserting.
4. Replace chain (definitely) and possibly sprockets
5. New tyres & tubes if required
6. New cables (probably)
7. New brake pads
Beyond these, you should check hubs, jockey wheels, chainrings and bottom bracket for condition and service/replace as required.
A few weeks ago, I restored this very tired "Flying Scot" to as new in its real form as a Cougar built by Terry Dolan (the gruppo is slightly younger than the frameset)
IMAG0300.jpg
All the above, plus I'd add: strip the hubs, check the bearing surfaces, clean, re-grease and re-assemble. Be sure to re-fit the axles the same way round; although usually this is unimportant, some old ones only adjust for bearing pressure on one side so if you fit them backwards, they can tighten up and jam the wheel. Sheldon Brown will help with the details.
Ideally, do the same with the bottom bracket and steerer bearings but if these feel OK then leave them for now as they may need special tools.
It's worth fitting a new chain too - the old one will probably have some stiff links/corrosion and a new 5/6/7 speed chain will only cost a tenner.
I'd also get the seatpost out, rub some grease or Copaslip on it and put it back. Seatposts are a swine if they decide to corrode in place! If it's stuck, spray some WD40 round the join and leave for a day or two. Even if it is free, some grease now will stop it sticking later.
As for stripping and powder coating the frame, I think there is a lot to be said for leaving the bike's finish original, even if it's tatty. A "rat look" bike might also be less likely to get nicked!
Good luck with the bike, sounds fun
If it's safe to ride "as is" I'd start with and good clean and re-lub then new tyres, brake pads, handlebar tape and cables. If you not recabled a bike before it's not too tricky to learn from a few youtube videos. Lots of good info on Sheldon Browns site, espcially on older bikes. Do buy a 1/2 decent cable cutter to cut the outers though, I tried to do without and it didn't end well.
Enjoy