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Aero wheels for a small light rider

Hi guys

Am new to this forum and am hoping you guys can guide me in the right direction!

I’m after a set of new wheels. However, I don’t really know what I’m looking for. I currently have the Mavic Cosmic Elite’s which came with my bike when I bought it. This weekend just gone, I hired a set of Enve 6.7 clinchers and used them on the Ironman Wales bike course. I've only done that course once before, this time last year, but I can see from my times I was noticeably faster. That might be due to having an extra year of cycling in me though, I'm not sure. However, the wheels certainly felt faster on the flats. I'm on the small side (5 foot 1, 7 and a half stone) so hills have never been an issue for me. However, I'm generally pretty rubbish on the flats and these aero wheels seemed to make it feel a lot easier.

So, now I think I'm after some aero wheels  1 However I literally have no idea what I'm looking for! I didn't intend on getting the Enve wheels - that was a mistake with the shop. I had asked for some FFWD FR6s but they gave me the Enve ones instead because someone already had the FR6s.

I don't want to spend any more than £1k on a set but I really don't know where to start. Is my size and weight an issue? I've never used aero wheels before and they definitely did feel a bit twitchy when they caught the wind.

Any help or advice would be massively appreciated. Thanks  1

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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76 comments

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freebsd_frank replied to Martyn_K | 8 years ago
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Martyn_K writes:

They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.

Do you mean they climb better than the lighter, low profile rims?

I hope not. Because that would mean your fancy, heavier deep section rims defy physics.

Truly remarkable what you can buy for "just" £800.....  3

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Martyn_K replied to freebsd_frank | 8 years ago
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freebsd_frank wrote:

Martyn_K writes:

They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.

Do you mean they climb better than the lighter, low profile rims?

I hope not. Because that would mean your fancy, heavier deep section rims defy physics.

Truly remarkable what you can buy for "just" £800.....  3

No, what i meant was exactly what i wrote.

"They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own."

At no point in my post did i imply that the Cero RC45 wheels i bought made me a faster, better rider. I only confirmed that i too had been researching the minefield that is deep section wheels, noted what i eventually bought and gave some feedback as to the performance of them.

I don't think i should have to justify my purchase but because of the tone of your previous posts i'll play the game a little.

I had some money to spend after an annual bonus from work. I just so happened to already own 2 pairs of alu rimmed low profile wheels so i did not see the point in having yet another pair. I like the look of carbon deep sections. I fancied buying some, so i did. I now use the low profile rims for long days in the hills/ mountains when i will get the benefit of them. For other general riding or fast flat rides i use the carbon deep sections.

For the record i am 5'10" and 68kgs, have so far covered 4500 miles this year at an average speed of over 19mph in a mix of club rides and solo. So i don't think that losing lots of weight or training a great deal harder will make a major difference.

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freebsd_frank replied to Martyn_K | 8 years ago
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Martyn_K writes:

No, what i meant was exactly what i wrote.

"They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own."

I know what you wrote. The clear implication was that they were better for
climbing.

At no point in my post did i imply that the Cero RC45 wheels i bought made
me a faster, better rider.

Good. Because they don't.

I don't think i should have to justify my purchase but because of the
tone of your previous posts i'll play the game a little.

This isn't some "game". People come on this forum for information. As for your
assertion that you shouldn't justify your (expensive) purchase, you should.
Readers want to know the pros and cons of products that poster's have bought.

I like the look of carbon deep sections.

Translation: I'm a fashion victim.

For other general riding or fast flat rides i use the carbon deep sections.

Wouldn't it be more economical to use cheaper wheels (ie. Al alloy rims)
for general riding?

If you trash your wheel in a pothole, you can just get another (cheap)
rim and/or spokes and rebuild the wheel.

Or do you like to "show-off" your expensive wheels irrespective of their
suitability?

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fukawitribe replied to freebsd_frank | 8 years ago
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freebsd_frank wrote:

Martyn_K writes:

They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.

Do you mean they climb better than the lighter, low profile rims?

OTIO

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olic | 8 years ago
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FLO 60s - bit of a weight penalty but excellent performance and a reasonable price. If you're doing a lot of triathlons/ironman style events then weight shouldn't really be coming into it, even though you're a light rider.

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Nixster | 8 years ago
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The DCR wheels I mentioned are his 'off the shelf' hand built wheels, which does help with the 'where do I start' issue. You could then look at e.g. lighter hubs but they already come with quality spokes and enough of them for someone as svelte as yourself. Yellow jersey are 38mm Green jersey 50mm, no use if you want to go deeper I realise. From what I gather 80 or 90mm rears are not uncommon in triathlons?

Of course I'm doing the usual forum thing of putting my preference forward as your ideal solution but we do at least seem to have something in common vs recommending open pros to someone who asked about aero wheels  37

Mind you, hiring while you decide if they're really for you is a good call but if it were me I would want to practice and be comfortable with my kit before an event.

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freebsd_frank | 8 years ago
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I remain to be convinced by the benefit of "aero" wheels.

  • For "good ones", they're expensive. For top pros backed by a team:
    they don't have to pay for them or if they break then the service car
    (or a domestique) will give you a new wheel at no cost.

  • 80% of drag is caused by the rider, not the wheels or bike.
  • They're heavier than low section rims. Bad for mountains or hills.
  • They're a menace in crosswinds.
  • They're weak. Cheap ones use crappy spokes eg. plain gauge, no-name.
    Even expensive ones typically use 20 spokes (maybe more on the back)
    radially laced (2x on DS rear) and they're machine built (if you're not
    a top pro).

  • Cheap ones come with sealed hubs, so when the bearings need
    re-greasing/wearout you chuck them away.

  • If you're racing (not TT or Triathlon), you're mainly riding in the peloton
    and you get more aero advantage from the guys riding in front of you blasting
    a hole through the air.

  • Because of the heavy deep section rims, they are slower to "spin up".

If I was the original poster, I'd carry on hiring or borrowing the aero wheels
for events (assuming there are no crosswinds or hills) and spend my money
on a decent set of training/everyday wheels.

You can build a pair of Mavic Open Pros with 32h Record hubs and Sapim
CX Ray spokes (built 3x) for <£350.

They'll be reasonably light and you could use them when it's windy or hilly
and still ride them for training.

What's more they'll be bombproof, last you years and save you a fortune  1

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Welsh boy replied to freebsd_frank | 8 years ago
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Freeebsd_frank, please stop posting your ill formed opinions as if they were facts. Give an opinion by all means but don't do it in such a way as to make it seem like it is accurate rather than an opinion. Taking your points in order:

Some deep rims are lighter than some shallow rims.
If 80% of wind resistance is the rider and not the wheel then in cross winds the deep section rim is negligible compared with the effect of the rider.
Not all deep section rimmed wheels are weak.
20 radial spokes are fine, back in the 80's I rode TTs, road races and went youth hostelling on 20/24 spoke radial wheels I built myself without a single problem or without having to true them in over 5 years.
When you say "sealed" hubs I assume you really mean cartridge bearings. Most cartridge bearings are replaceable, the Hope hubs on my MTB have had one new set of bearings in 10 years of heavy use, they did not have to go in the bin. However, my Shimano cup and cone hubs had to be binned when the bearing surfaces pitted.
If you read (and respond to) the original post you will see that the wheels are for triathlon which you don't seem to consider to be racing. Try one, you will soon change your stupid viewpoint.
32 spoke 3x wheels! Please, these are racing wheels we are looking at not touring wheels with a weeks worth of camping gear on board.

Have a look at these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/pro-lite-bracciano-caliente-45mm-carbon-clincher...

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freebsd_frank replied to Welsh boy | 8 years ago
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Freeebsd_frank, please stop posting your ill formed opinions as if they were
facts. Give an opinion by all means but don't do it in such a way as to make
it seem like it is accurate rather than an opinion. Taking your points in
order:

Don't tell me to stop posting my opinions and while we're at it, tell me which
of my facts or opinions is wrong instead of indulging in personal abuse.

Some deep rims are lighter than some shallow rims.

Made from the same material? That defies common sense and science. Well done.
Can you also say "ill formed opinions"?

If 80% of wind resistance is the rider and not the wheel then in cross winds
the deep section rim is negligible compared with the effect of the rider.

So if it's negligible in a cross wind then it's even more negligible when the
wind is in your face, isn't it?

Many have attested to steering problems and keeping your line in cross winds
with deep section rims.

Not all deep section rimmed wheels are weak.

I never said that they were. The strength of a wheel has more to do with the
spokes, how they're laced, what material they're made of and their number.

20 radial spokes are fine, back in the 80's I rode TTs, road races and went
youth hostelling on 20/24 spoke radial wheels I built myself without a single
problem or without having to true them in over 5 years.

So your anecdote overides the scientific evidence on the matter does it?

Even Campagnolo says that their 20/24 radially spoked Khamsins should not be
used by people over 82Kgs.

To use a 20/24 set of racing wheels for youth hostelling constitutes an act of
gross stupidity on your part.

When you say "sealed" hubs I assume you really mean cartridge bearings.

No. I mean hubs that can't be maintained by the user.

Most cartridge bearings are replaceable, the Hope hubs on my MTB have had
one new set of bearings in 10 years of heavy use, they did not have to go
in the bin.

Good for you. You bought a quality product that you could maintain.

However, my Shimano cup and cone hubs had to be binned when the bearing
surfaces pitted.

Another anecdote. They were defective or you didn't maintain them.

If you read (and respond to) the original post you will see that the wheels
are for triathlon which you don't seem to consider to be racing. Try one,
you will soon change your stupid viewpoint.

If you read my previous post, nowhere do I say that triathlon isn't racing.
Stop making stuff up and then abusing me.

32 spoke 3x wheels! Please, these are racing wheels we are looking at
not touring wheels with a weeks worth of camping gear on board

You're a moron who can't properly address the facts and opinions I bought up
in my previous post. Keep touring on your 20/24s. Keep believing in the magical
benefits of your weak radially spoked deep section (and expensive) wheels
so that you don't look like a plonker when riding with the rest of the
sheeple.

The fact is you're a fashion victim with more money than sense, unable to
support your opinion that deep section rims are "better" accept with lame
anecdotes. What do you do when you're found out? Resort to abuse.

Pathetic.

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2 Wheeled Idiot | 8 years ago
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I'm less than 70 KGS all year round and avoid potholes/don't treat them too badly yet my planet al30's have been frankly shocking in terms of robustness.
I've broken 4 spokes on my current rear wheel which was a warranty replacement after breaking 3 spokes on that wheel.
They may be stiff, light and cheap....but they seem to be made of cheese.  7

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Shortstuff84 | 8 years ago
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I hear mixed reviews on planet x but maybe that is from heavier riders? Definitely don't want to spend more than I need to!

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Shortstuff84 | 8 years ago
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Cheers for the advice guys. I had never heard of far sports so will have a look. I'm happy with the wheels I currently have for climbing, they seem to do the job.  1

I did look at the guys who do the hand built wheels but I wasn't sure where to start, as I don't understand what I'm asking for! Is it simply a case of saying this is my budget, and this is what I want my wheels to do? Sorry for being so naive!

Nothing wrong with triathlon - gives me an excuse for not being so good on the bike... I'm more of a swimmer/runner...  3

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racingcondor | 8 years ago
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Well, at your weight I'd go for the lightest rims so ideally a 35-45 mm rim.

That said the main drawback of the Planet X offerings is the low spoke count not suiting heavier/more powerful riders so save 600 of your 1k budget and get some Planet X 50mm tubulars and you'll have a great set for the cash.

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Nixster | 8 years ago
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I've been idly researching this topic and there are a range of options depending on what you want to spend. Far sports is the budget end of things with a number of options of width and dept, clincher or tubular and you could indeed get two sets for your money.

Walker Bros and Wheelsmith both do sets in your budget at around £800 and £1k respectively however I've seen DCR wheels yellow and green jersey wheelsets at £685 delivered and they look convincing, he will mix F&R wheels of different depths which would suit you I guess? If it were my bag of sand that's where it would be going.

After that it's second hand Zipps with all the caveat emptor stuff that goes with it, plus their earlier hubs don't have the best rep for durability. Tubs cheaper than clinchers if you could stretch to £1.5k for 303s but that's a whole different can of worms.

FF4R/6R you obviously already know about, to me they look a bit OTT but hey you're into triathlon  3

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2 Wheeled Idiot | 8 years ago
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IMO, if you're willing to take the (slight) risk, some Chinese carbon wheels from farsports or other well known and respected manufacturers cannot be beaten for value. Also for your kind of budget you could get both a deep set for flatter roads and then some shallower ones for climbing and/or windy rides.

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